A bent rod isn't what caused the engine to lock up.

Something caused the bent rod in the first place. A locked up rod bearing will do it, hydrolock will do it, sometimes too many RPM can do it (rare). How does the rod bearing look?

The bearing looked new not even the slightest sign of wear. The rod was bent in a way that it was wedges against the counter weight on the crank and twisted so that the crank could not turn. The car was running perfectly fine, pulled it on the dyno, swapped the injectors out strapped it down and when we tried to start it, it rotated maybe once then a clunk and nothing after that.

How do i find out the build date of my car?

Is it not on your door jamb?

No idea. Havent looked.

Thanks to nick for figuring it out for you

If you guys want a good and funny read here you go. Steve starting shit over at svtperformance. Lol jk Steve I know those guys don't have a clue.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...0-miles-3.html

Plus I wonder if Clint will chime in on that thread. Lol

If they knew they didn't have a clue of a clue that would be one thing. It's amazing some of those guys even know how to turn the key on their cars.

I don't know why you are saying they are so wrong. IMO the "defective rod" conclusion isn't the issue. I agree with what they posted on SVTP.

Im sure the guys at truestreet are honest guys. They seem to have quite a few happy customers. I'm not saying that they are trying to get out of paying or taking responsibilty.

They may have never even thought of this happening. I guess the only way to know for sure or atleast let them know for future reference, is how they bled the fuel system before they swapped out the injectors. If they did everything by the book. started the car, pulled the fuse to the fuel pump and let the car run until it ran out of gas or any other method that works the same. Then I would be completley fine with accepting the rod was just defective. I just dont see any other reasonable answer with how it bent under those conditions.

I'm no mechanic but I have changed more than one set of injectors and I have a full proof method. I don't pull any fuses or blead the lines. I just pull the damn things, let fuel go everywhere and put the new ones in. Never bent a rod, I must be a damn magician because every car I've ever done that on runs perfect. I think you guys are looking at this injector thing a little to hard, sometimes shit just happens.

Exactly.

Actually your way works obviously. Not the most clean way but it works.. With that said just because you get away with something doesn't make it fool proof.

"shit" doesn't just happen. If you're working on it yourself then thats a acceptable answer. If im paying someone else to work on my stuff and I have this information right infront of me, I would look into it. If the OP doesn't care and planned on upgrading anyways then I guess the situation works out for both of them.

Yes you can look into it, but how do you prove it. That is the problem with anything on a high performance car, expecially with stock internals. how do you prove it. I have a stock bottom end 302 in a 89 GT, I know that over a certain power and rpm my block will most likely blow ( or guaranteed to blow ). Why don't you guys look at these new motors the same way. They aren't lsx motors so they weren't touched by god so that means shit will go wrong at certain power levels. Why can't this be from power or not a manufacterer defect but manufacterer limit on parts. On a side note I will be changing injectors on my personal car here in a couples months the old redneck way, so somebody please pray for me.