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JDMLOL
03-27-2013, 07:31 PM
So I will be hitting 3,000 mi soon and I know recommended oil for the 5.0 is synthetic blend per Ford. I don't trust the people at walmart or the jiffy lube and I don't feel like taking it to the dealer so I'm going to do it myself. What do some of you all run? I'm planning on doing Mobil 1 full synthetic extended performance. What are some of y'alls oil and filter change intervals on full synthetic? I know Mobil 1 EP is rated at 15,000 mi, not too comfortable with that but maybe 7,500-10,000 mi. What do y'all think?

DirtyD
03-27-2013, 07:39 PM
Ford built and designed this engine, so I believe I should put in it what they recommend. That's just MHO though.

STROKD
03-27-2013, 11:54 PM
I ran Royal Purple in my Cobra, and in the Porsche... seems to work great. The Vettes get Mobil 1.

blownaltered
03-28-2013, 12:27 AM
Change it every 5k, it's cheaper than buying a new motor

MnemonicGhost
03-28-2013, 01:04 AM
I just passed 3k and have like 70% of "oil life" on the display. Even with Extreme duty and heat, I believe the manual says it should be 7,000-8,000 miles until it gets to zero. But oil is cheap insurance for a healthy engine. So I'm likely to do it on my own as well pretty soon. I think ford recommends 5w20 motorcraft semi synthetic.

46Tbird
03-28-2013, 12:08 PM
Let Ford do it. They will use a Motorcraft filter and use oil that they approve of themselves. That way there's never a question of maintenance. I changed oil at 1k miles, then 5k miles, then every 5-6k miles after that. On both engines, lmao.

BLK2012GT
03-28-2013, 12:11 PM
I switching to amsoil and changing it every 3k miles.

JDMLOL
03-28-2013, 01:54 PM
Hmmm. A range of different answers. See I believe that synthetics are better and maintain their chemical properties longer than conventional, but I dont think filters are meant to do their job for as long as some of these synthetics are supposed to last. I've read several different articles on synthetic lab testing but nothing on filters. I hear the motorcraft one that came from the factory is the best one. I agree changing oil regulary is cheap insurance to keep the motor in tip top shape but I dont see the point in spending money on an oil change if the filter and oil are perfectly fine. Does the oil life monitor actually read the life through a sensor or calculate based on miles and driving style? It sounds like based on what I've heard, Ill just stick with ford recommended oil and filters every 5k.

IHateThisSite
03-28-2013, 02:30 PM
It's a dummy timer... Don't trust it for anything .... It's mainly for people who are to stupid to know when to change it ..... Ignore that time 100% and do it on a regular cycle ... I do 5000 miles ... Sometimes a little more if I don't get around to it ... This round it will be like 5200-5300...

03MachMe
03-28-2013, 03:25 PM
Do mine every 5k miles, because they are free for another year and half at Town East. Just rolled over 10k so I'll be taking it in for its 2nd oil change soon.

JDMLOL
03-31-2013, 01:15 AM
So I changed it a little early (2300mi) with the recommended Motorcraft filter and semi synthetic oil. Now I'm having a ticking issue from about idle-1500 rpm. I've read about people having similar issues on other forums after an early oil change. Has anyone heard of or had this issue? There is a rumor that Ford added some sort of break in additive to the oil from the factory that was supposed to fix this issue.

Emwun Garand
03-31-2013, 03:51 AM
10w30 will fix it.
I know that when they designed the Cobra they originally intended to use 10w30 but Ford got some kind of grant or discount with something if they switched to 5w20, so that's what the car shipped with. I switched to 10w30. I know several other 5.0 guys who also run 10w30 and eliminated the same ticking noise.

MidWest281
03-31-2013, 11:08 AM
get the oil changed at your dealership....therefore you have the maintenance records for warranty purposes.

TurboZ
03-31-2013, 12:23 PM
do it according to how hard you drive. if you're constantly beating the shit out of it, do it at 3500-4k if you're running synthetic (not royal purple crap). if you granny drive it, you can get away with 5-6k miles between intervals. If you're running royal purple, its a non-detergent oil which means race only. You don't wanna run royal purple for more than 3k miles at a time. I pulled apart an LS1 at 60k miles that ran nothing but royal purple. It looked worse than a motor with twice the mileage running pennzoil. Some royal purple out there does have detergents, but the majority dont. I'd suggest castrol syntec, or if you have to, mobil1. If you're willing to spend the money, buy amsoil. Its the best synthetic oil out there, has amazing detergent properties, and won't hurt anything if you happen to miss the 5-6k mile intervals. Yes its expensive, but more now, is less money spent later

JDMLOL
03-31-2013, 12:38 PM
I dont feel I should have to go to the dealer for an oil change. It takes more time, plus I'm still a student. Im not trying to spend more than I have to on something I can easily do myself. Ive worked at a dealer before, I remember most of the time the oil changes were done by some kid that wasnt even a tech. I can save my oreilly receipts and bottles as proof to me using their recommended lubricants and filters. I just want to be sure the ticking doesnt cause damage. It doesnt make sense that the car does it after an oil change when I supposedly replaced it with the same lubricant that it came with from the factory. Why do the track pack cars take 5w-50, is it because they come with an external oil cooler?

03MachMe
03-31-2013, 01:03 PM
I dont feel I should have to go to the dealer for an oil change. It takes more time, plus I'm still a student. Im not trying to spend more than I have to on something I can easily do myself. Ive worked at a dealer before, I remember most of the time the oil changes were done by some kid that wasnt even a tech. I can save my oreilly receipts and bottles as proof to me using their recommended lubricants and filters. I just want to be sure the ticking doesnt cause damage. It doesnt make sense that the car does it after an oil change when I supposedly replaced it with the same lubricant that it came with from the factory. Why do the track pack cars take 5w-50, is it because they come with an external oil cooler?

They recommended the 50 for track pack and boss card because it is supposed to be a better oil for racing. Nothing to do with the motor itself.

I'm just over 5k since my last oil change and I'm taking it in on Tuesday for my next one, since it's free for 2 years. Checked the oil again yesterday and hasn't burned a drop in over 5k miles so don't know what all this talk about burning oil is about

MnemonicGhost
04-01-2013, 12:36 AM
I collected half to 3/4 a cup of oil through the passenger oil separator in about 3200 miles. That's just barely going to be measurable at the dipstick.

OG Fox
04-01-2013, 02:18 AM
Motorcraft is perfect. no need for all the aftermarket shit. Change your oil every 3k-5k. the timer on the dash is based on miles not a true measurement of oil. Use your dipstick when you can!

JDMLOL
04-01-2013, 09:46 PM
Just what I like to hear about my brand new car... Talked to a tech today about the ticking and he said that he has heard of 5.0 F-150's having the same sort of ticking that had bottom end work or motor replacement and I have heard the same on other forums from mustang owners. Dropping it off tomorrow. GREAT.

1ATony
04-02-2013, 03:11 PM
Mobil 1 is pretty good stuff. I typically run it with a WIX or Mobil 1 oil filter in my fox.

Toby
04-02-2013, 07:40 PM
Mobil 1 is pretty good stuff. I typically run it with a WIX or Mobil 1 oil filter in my fox.

Motor craft filter is a better quality filter imo

CMORENO302
04-02-2013, 10:53 PM
Just what I like to hear about my brand new car... Talked to a tech today about the ticking and he said that he has heard of 5.0 F-150's having the same sort of ticking that had bottom end work or motor replacement and I have heard the same on other forums from mustang owners. Dropping it off tomorrow. GREAT.

My 2012 GT had a bad ticking and rattling noise at startup around 3500 mi. Tool it in and came out with a complete new engine swap. I was good it was non repairable. It was good with me. And came with a 5yr/100k warranty.

JDMLOL
04-03-2013, 03:29 PM
This happens on mine when warm. Intermittent at idle and more frequent with a load up to about 2k. Other 5.0 owners have named it the "ignitor tick" because it sounds like the electronic ignitor on a gas grill. There is tsb on my vehicle, but I have a feeling it wont fix it. It's just a different ac compressor pulley and a few other things related to the ac compressor.

MidWest281
04-03-2013, 06:01 PM
valvetrain noise most likely.

JDMLOL
04-03-2013, 06:33 PM
I dont have a stethoscope but it sounds like it's coming from the bottom of the motor. I touched each head and could hear it but couldn't feel it in either head. Not a very good method. Idk though.

MidWest281
04-03-2013, 06:47 PM
Use a long screw driver. If you think its from the lower end, disable fuel injectors and see if the noise changes or goes away

JDMLOL
04-03-2013, 07:01 PM
Use a long screw driver. If you think its from the lower end, disable fuel injectors and see if the noise changes or goes away

Just crank it? Lol. It's at the dealer now. Mine sounds exactly like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TeFix0OElw&feature=youtube_gdata_player

JDMLOL
04-08-2013, 10:49 PM
For anyone interested in the issue or for anyone with the same issue, this was what the dealer performed on my car. Mine is a '13 so I guess they still didn't get it right by the 2013 model.

TSB
12-8-14
5.0L WITH A/C COMPRESSOR DRIVE STRETCHY BELT CONFIGURATION - LIGHT LOWER-END ENGINE KNOCK
Publication Date: August 16, 2012

FORD: 2011-2012 Mustang

This article supersedes TSB 12-8-3 to update Part List.
ISSUE:

Some 2011-2012 Mustang vehicles equipped with a 5.0L engine and air conditioning (A/C) compressor drive stretchy belt configuration may exhibit a light, lower-end engine knock most noticeable when engine temperature is warm and the vehicle is at idle.
ACTION:

Refer to the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE

Remove A/C compressor drive stretchy belt. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-05. Start engine and re-evaluate concern. Is light, lower-end engine knock still present?
Yes - This procedure does not apply. Refer to WSM, Section 303-00.
No - Obtain drive belt service kit. For vehicles with automatic transmission, also obtain transmission fluid cooler tubes and clamps. Proceed to Step 2.
For vehicles with automatic transmission, remove transmission fluid cooler tubes and discard. Refer to WSM, Section 307-02.
Determine engine build date. Refer to WSM, Section 303-01.
If engine build date is on or before 4/15/2011, proceed to Step 4.
If engine build date is after 4/15/2011, do not replace the engine front cover. Use an 8 X 1.25 mm tap to clean the mounting locations noted on the engine front cover. (Figure 1) Use compressed air to clean any remaining debris.
For vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission, proceed to Step 5.
For vehicles equipped with a manual transmission, proceed to Step 6.

/pubs/auxf/~WT/USENIE/2340/tb10152a.gif
Figure 1 - Article 12-8-14
Replace the engine front cover. Refer to WSM, Section 303-01.
For vehicles with automatic transmission, install new transmission fluid cooler tubes. Refer to WSM, Section 307-02.
Install A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley and A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley bolt supplied in the service kit. Tighten to 25 N-m (18 lb-ft). (Figure 2)

/pubs/auxf/~WT/USENIE/2361/tb10155a.gif
Figure 2 - Article 12-8-14

Install A/C compressor drive belt tensioner supplied in the service kit. Tighten to 25 N-m (18 lb-ft). (Figure 2)
Install A/C compressor drive belt supplied in the service kit. (Figure 2)
Install accessory drive belt. Refer to WSM, Section 303-05.
Install Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) and identify the vehicle. Answer the IDS screen prompts according to the current vehicle A/C belt configuration.
Reprogram the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) using IDS release 79.03 or higher. This new calibration is not included in the VCM 2012.5 DVD. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com.
Perform Misfire Monitor Neutral Profile Correction. Select IDS Toolbox Icon, Powertrain, Service Functions, then Misfire Monitor Neutral Profile Correction.
PART NUMBER PART NAME BR3Z-8620-DA Kit-Drive Belt - GT XW4Z-6700-AA Crankshaft Seal - Front 8C2Z-7C107-A Clamp-Trans Oil Cooler CR3Z-7R081-C Tube Assembly Transmission Cooler

WARRANTY STATUS:

Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool. OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 120814A 2011-2012 Mustang 5.0L Manual Transmission: Diagnose, Install New A/C Compressor Drive Belt Idler Pulley, Tensioner, And Drive Belt Includes Time To Reprogram The PCM And Perform Misfire Monitor Neutral Profile Correction (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 1.0 Hr. 120814A 2011-2012 Mustang 5.0L 6R80 Automatic Transmission: Diagnose, Install New A/C Compressor Drive Belt Idler Pulley, Tensioner, Drive Belt And Transmission Cooler Lines Includes Time To Reprogram The PCM And Perform Misfire Monitor Neutral Profile Correction (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 3.1 Hrs. 120814B 2011-2012 Mustang 5.0L Manual Transmission: Diagnose, Install New Engine Front Cover, A/C Compressor Drive Belt Idler Pulley, Tensioner, And Drive Belt Includes Time To Reprogram The PCM And Perform Misfire Monitor Neutral Profile Correction (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 5.4 Hrs. 120814B 2011-2012 Mustang 5.0L 6R80 Automatic Transmission: Diagnose, Install New Engine Front Cover, A/C Compressor Drive Belt Idler Pulley, Tensioner, Drive Belt And Transmission Cooler Lines Includes Time To Reprogram The PCM And Perform Misfire Monitor Neutral Profile Correction (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 7.4 Hrs.
DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE 6006 42
NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford or Lincoln dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.
Copyright © 2012 Ford Motor Company