JPC Fuel Drain Kit

[Doug1227]

Anybody running this kit?

http://www.jpcracing.com/jpc-2011-20...uel-drain-kit/

I'm wondering whether I should leave the Tee portion and cap on the car for future use, or just swap that piece in whenever I need to drain the kit. Part of me is a little leary of having a potential fuel leak and feels the factory parts are more trustworthy.

[Yagermeister]

Doug,

I elected to buy a GT500 fuel filter and 6' of fuel hose and 2 clamps.

To relieve the fuel pressure in the lines: Disconnect the FPDM module in the trunk and start the car and let it stall out and die. I then crank it 10 seconds to relieve the fuel pressure and then disconnect my battery.

The GT500 fuel filter has the exact same male connector as the fuel rail so when you disconnect your fuel rail on the driver side you simply plug the filter into the fuel rail feed and then the hose into your fuel jug. I then reconnect the battery and the FPDM module. I then load a tune for my ecu to turn my fuel pump on with the key on and it'll drain the tank through the filter and into my jug. If you want you can relieve the pressure of the rail again at this point and then disconnect the filter and reconnect the fuel rail.



I then swap tunes back and fill up with my other fuel choice and you're good to go.

[Doug1227]

Yeah, I've already received the JPC kit, so I'm gonna roll with it. I'm just trying to decide whether I want to install the fitting with a cap on it and just undo the cap when I drain it or if I want to break the fuel line loose and install the tee/fitting each time I do it. Either way is fine I'm sure, but I think I prefer the tee and everything removed except when I'm draining. It's just one more place you could have a potential leak.

[kdanner]

I set this up a couple of years ago, that fitting for the fuel line is $40. http://focus.c-f-m.com/cfmfuelpressu...mustanggt.aspx

I screwed a schrader valve from an old 2V fuel rail into that fitting. I leave the fitting on the car, then I have a hose that screws onto the schrader valve when I want to drain the tank.

[Doug1227]

That's what the JPC kit uses, just with a 4 or 6-AN fitting in that FNPT spot instead of a shrader. I'm not sure how I feel about having an AN cap on it as the only thing preventing the car from burning to the ground! LOL!

[wbt]

No need for this info.

[garner]

Originally Posted by wbt JPC kit is a rip off. I built the same thing for about $50. It pisses me off to see vendors and shops take advantage of people.... I install on the fuel rail, drain fuel and remove it.

You do realize that's a thing called business right? You could do the same thing if you wanted to

[wbt]

No need for this info.

[BV600]

Originally Posted by wbt JPC kit is a rip off. I built the same thing for about $50. It pisses me off to see vendors and shops take advantage of people.... I install on the fuel rail, drain fuel and remove it.

Definetly see some of the big vendors doing this, especially on SVTP aggravates me.

Can you PM me parts needed for that kit you made?

[wbt]

No need for this info.

[kdanner]

I don't think that's right, those are 1/8"NPT threads on the CFM part, not 1/4"NPT.

[Doug1227]

Lol! Yeah, if I knew where to find that fitting and wasn't in a hurry, I would have definitely went that route. No big deal. I think I'll plan on installing/ removing the fitting each time I drain instead of leaving it there and capped.

[Doug1227]

Although there are cheaper ways to make something similar, if you look at the actual components they use, I bet they cost close to $100. Earl's Hose, push lok fittings, the fuel rail fitting, the valve, etc. Granted there are MUCH cheaper ways to do it, but at least they used quality parts. (I think I'm just trying to justify dropping that kinda coin on this kit! LOL!)

[kdanner]

My thoughts too, they did use high quality stuff, just don't see that level of parts being needed for the intended use.