Ford Racing adj Handling Package
 

So I ordered a the FR adj handling package and was wondering if I should go ahead and change anything else when I install. I see a lot of people using LCA relocation brackets but the Frod package doesn't use them, why? The car is a DD and I am only doing the 1" drop P springs for now.

You shouldn't need the relocation brackets with only a 1" drop. I'm not sure if that comes with a panhard bar but that's the only thing you would "need"

Congrats man. Buying the pack is the best way to do it I think. Just buy it all together and stick it all on at once.

To your question, I agree with 03. I did some research on this for my setup, and I think you will be okay holding off on the lca and lca relos since your drop is not too aggressive. But, I am dropping 1"F/1.25"R and I am still getting lca/relos. Just because.

Also, get a panhard. I have seen people drop their stang and didn't use a panhard because it didn't "look" like they needed it. However, to my eye - it needed one bad!

The kit comes with the panhard bar so I am good to go there. If I decide I need to go lower I will be sure to get new LCAs and the relo bracket. Thanks for the info, much appreciated.

make sure you post up a review! I was talking to a buddy of mine in the industry that highly recommends the FRPP kit because they are tokico built but spec'd by dynamic. supposed to be a really good combination.

It's not needed even if you go lower but best to get it if you want the best traction result.

I will do my best to give it a review but I am not even remotely qualified to do so. Should get it this week but it may be a while before I get it put on since I am not sure when I will have time to install it. Might just look into having a shop doing it depending on the cost.

My car is lowered with the P springs and my stock LCAs are not parallel anymore. I have since ordered BMRs relocation brackets and LCAs to correct the issue. Bare in mind, I also changed the wheels and tires, so that may also have effected the sustpension height of the car. There are a few ways to adjust the suspension, so not to get too confusing, I had the same question as you. Long answer short, you don't "need" to adjust the angle of the LCAs however, when you lower the car, the suspension changes and when you accelerate the rear is getting less traction because the angle of the control arms has changed. The rear of the control arms raises. They need to be flat. You can drive as is but, you will be be getting the traction that you should. BMRs relocation brackets has three available setting to adjust the LCA angle.

-Alex

What city are you in?

-Alex

Changing the wheel/tire height won't affect the suspension height, just the appearance of the suspension height (taller tire makes the car look lower, vice versa). It will change how the geometry of the suspension works with the car and putting down traction.

It would change the degree in change for the LCAs right? Like if I had lowered the car and kept the stock wheels, the LCA may have changed a certain degree but, by also changing the tire diameter, it changes the LCA angle also right?

-Alex

I was eating Whataburger when I answered that, so let me think about it for a minute.... haha

The LCA is connected to the "body" and the "axle", therefore the only time the LCA angle will change is when the distance between the axle and body decrease.

The tire diameter would only affect the distance between axle and angle when the suspension is conpressed. i.e. a shorter tire would allow the tire to tuck further inside of the wheel well when cornering, causing a greater change in LCA angle, but not to exceed the height of the fully compressed suspension.

At least that's what I came up with.

I live in Allen and work in Dallas.

Ok, so now my OCD self thinks I need need new LCAs and relos. Looking at the BMR stuff but also noticed Ford racing makes relos and can get the Boss R LCAs. Any opinions between the two?

From the sources I have seen, the Ford stuff will be far more expensive for probably an inferior product. I chose BMR personally but, I do have FRPP lowering springs. Only reason I chose those is because it had the drop that I wanted and I don't imagine any manufacturer being able to fuck up a spring. If you still have a full warranty maybe go with Ford but, I've only seen positive reviews of BMR stuff and mostly positive stuff of Whiteline.

-Alex

Yeah I see a lot of BMR relos and not much on the ford racing ones so i will go that route.

You don't NEED them, but you will see improved traction with a set of brackets and lca's.

The FRPP relocation brackets are the most stout ones out. NONE of the others are as solidly made. The FRPP's are about twice as thick as the BMR's or Steeda's. They only have two adj holes. With the 'k' springs and using the top hole the body side of the lca is about 1/8" higher than the axle side. So, with 'p' springs this will be exaggerated.

The FRPP FR500C/ Boss 302R lca's work well with the FRPP relocation brackets. They're just a tubular lca with poly bushings on both ends. Simple and effective.

It's good stuff. As said before, the 302S brackets are VERY stout. I bent my BMR brackets....the Ford ones are doing great. Very nice fit. The 302R arms are cool too- the bushings slide right out and are easily rebuildable, you can get a new set of sleeves and bushings for 40 bucks or so.

Good enough for Grand Am...good enough for me. I have no idea if any of the 302R teams actually use these arms though.

I ordered the 302R LCAs but the BMR relos because I didn't really like the way the FR relos are just zinc coated steel and looked cheap. Guess the BMRs will look cheap if they bend.

csamsh, what kind of 60ft times were you getting when you bent the BMR ones? Also I assume they were not welded.

Ok so i finally got around to installing everything this weekend. Did the rear along with the BMR relos and Boss LCAs on Saturday. Then yesterday I go to change out the stuff on the front. Get the sway bar changed out and new struts in place and start to torque everything down. Just one little problem, I misread the Ford included letter with changes to the torque recommendation to the strut mount bolts which was actually for the main nut holding everything together. So I torqued them to 42ft-lb instead of 26ft-lb that they should have and low and behold if one of them didn't break off. I thought that that was a lot of torque for the mount bolts but since the struts came already assembled it didn't click that they would be giving me specifications for the main nut.

Put the stock units back on it for now and ordered a new set of mounts. Will go ahead and change out both mounts since I don't want to risk having over stressed the ones that didn't break and have them fail later.

What's a 60 foot time??? lol

But seriously- no they weren't welded. A good 60 for me was 1.90-1.95 with 275 street tires @35psi. My car was never a "serious" drag car, and it doesn't go to the drag strip at all any more.

Hmmm that's not very reassuring, I thought I had read that you where ok not welding unless you were sub 1.7.

I am being pretty conservative right now and running mine in the top setting.

I wouldn't say that my lack of success had anything to do with straight lines. I would lean more towards autox/track time.