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Suspension
after i get my exhaust system put in, the next step is prep the car for a bigger better motor. The end goal for this car is to be a great street car first, but a definite good track car second. (road racing). Any tips on the rear suspension? I want my fox body to handle like my 12 did (or better). thanks.
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Suspension
Coil over conversion is what I would go after....but that might be some fab work and $$$
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Maximummotorsports.com
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Suspension
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OG when you are ready let me know. I warn you, you will hate me for the rabbit hole I will make you fall down, but it will be worth it once you are out of debt.
Max Motorsport what?....:gr_grin: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AzpDOFOvdek |
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Hate to say it, but if you're really wanting a good road course car, put an IRS in it. Live axles can be made to handle damn good (just see the Griggs and MM comments above), but a built IRS bring a new level of sophistication to things. Plus, except for a very small amount of fab work, it's damn near a bolt in. Use the '03 to '04 version if possible, much stronger to begin with.
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Subscribed. Needing to do something with my 85.
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Had an IRS Mustang and a Griggs. The Griggs launches harder and turns quicker and easier. Also if the Griggs starts a light drift it's easy as a video game to straighten out. IRS may be better in theory, but not designed by Ford...
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Griggs/MM. Can't go wrong either way.
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Maximum motorsports hands down. I run all their products on my car, nothing but perfect fitting products that has some of the best quality I have ever dealt with. Anytime you want to take a ride let me know.
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Damn Griggs is expensive. If I was going to build an all out road race car I could see spending that much but not for a weekend toy. That may or may not ever see the track. Even if I was going to go to the track a few times a year I couldn't justify that price.
Next on my list is a bump steer kit and caster camber plates. |
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its a pretty bad ass fun to drive car though, when it's tuned I will let you drive it right after you get out of yours to see the difference. It doesnt ride or handle like a Mustang anymore. |
I can tell you guys from personal experience riding in Strokd's vert, I'd put that car against any "exotic" on the road in regards to handling. That thing handles amazing. Yes, what is underneath of it is crazy expensive, but worth every dime of it. Usually a fox with that kind of power is just a deathtrap, but that car handles all of the power and then some.
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Please let me know when its finished, i'd like a ride. Quote:
Im kinda in the same category as you right now. From what I can see, I need control arms, subframe connectors, shocks/ struts, sways. after that though, where do you go? |
Start with having the torque boxes welded. Aftermarket control arms with poly bushings have been known to tear perfectly good looking boxes. Call James B on the other forum, he does chassis work.
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I have upper and lower control arms, eibach pro springs, Koni str.t shocks and struts and of course subframe connectors. Looking into caster camber plates now. One of these days I might do a k member but that's because I drive a heavy ass vert so I need it to loose a few pounds. |
ok cool, i have eibach sportlines, and the car already plants decent, i thnk thats due to the after market 8.8 and aluminum driveshaft. but i will look into subframes next. I think latemodel has a subframe/control arm kit for like 200 bucks. not bad.
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^ this we also have a chassis guy in house that can do what ever you want done. He can even build you custom control arms to fit your specific needs.
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Thanks Steve, yea it's a fun car, I dont ever plan to let it leave the family. Even if I have to sell my 86 to keep it, it wouldnt even be a second thought. Where Id start, you have the springs which is great. Id do full length subframes, weld the torque boxes at the same time, an under hood strut brace (which I have a bad ass one I will sell cheap since it doesnt work with the Griggs), a g-load brace which braces the stock k member and keeps it in place during hard turns, bump steet kit, and upper and lower control arms for the back. At that point you should have a pretty damn good handling car... not torque arm + watts link good; but pretty nice and fun to toss around... All those parts should be less than a grand, esp if you buy my strut brace for half price.:p Dont forget some better tires too... |
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Check out these guys....
http://www.agentfortyseven.com/Fox/Fox_suspension.html# pricey but worth it |
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Can't find one for Global West, its defintely not the MM one, the one I have is WAY beefier than that flimsy pos one MM sells. The MM one doesn't even tie in the firewall, just attaches to it. Lmao.
If you'd like a picture, I should be able to get you one next time I go to storage in a few days. |
Just take your checkbook, your car and drop it off with JamesB who is the best chassis guy in Texas.
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Suspension
What about Ken Harry at Texas Chassis in Tyler? The dude from past time
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Also wouldn't Wolfe Racecraft be the king of ford drag racing in Texas? |
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And yes road racing is completely different then drag racing. Chassis stiffening they are "similar" but in terms of setup and knowing where to add bars to perform a specific job they are on complete different planets. I have a lot of experience with building and setting up dirt track cars. The principle is similar in terms of roll center, affective body roll, setting up and designing suspension so you have proper Ackerman angle etc. all of this plays a tremendous role when it comes to how a car will act upon approach, setup, carrying and exit of a corner. When you want to talk about handling or road racing every race is won or lost with every corner. |
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