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"It's not about how you stand by your numbers, its about how ya drive your car! Remember that!"
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[QUOTE=DirtyD;63769]I know it's only numbers, and I'm not trying to start that whole argument again, I'm just saying that out of all the stock dynos I've seen results for, including many from out group, those numbers are even past the factory freak level.[/
Man that's def a have to see it to believe it kind of numbers |
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We all know that driver mod was needed on one end. Lol Once the weather warms up, and I get some seat time, maybe we can go at the track? |
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Man I would love to see what the maximum potential these can do NA since they love to rev. A nice cam, intake manifold and heads(not sure if aftermarket heads are available).
-Alex |
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It just takes more money and I'm afraid driveability would suffer.
$5k in NA?? $5k in blower= at least 550 When I get the money I'm going blower for once.. |
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I spent $6k on my GTO (longtubes, mids, axle back, cai, ported t/b, monster level 2 clutch, big cam) and made around 430 (appx. 100 more than stock) I've spent $650 on this so far (axle back + tuner). With $5,500 I could throw on a Paxton, have it tuned and ride around with at least 550. Just not worth it anymore for me n/a. |
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Did you have an ls1 car? |
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The $6k was: ARH LT's w/ high flow cats- $1300 Mids and axle back- $700ish?? Level 2 Clutch w/lightweight flywheel- $1200 VX cam w/springs,etc- $1300 Ported t/b- $250 CAI- $400 Short throw shifter- $200-$300 (don't really remember) That plus install/tuning was about $6k. |
When I price a boosted car, I can't fathom slapping on a blower and calling it a day. Just not me. I always include a forged bottom end. If you're going to put a blower on, why not go all out for maximum potential AND reliability. Driving a boosted car is not fun when you can only do it a few times out of fear of bending rods or destroying pistons. So for me, a real blower setup is going to cost over $8k.
-Alex |
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Then you're putting down 600+ with no worries...compared to never hitting that and being afraid your engine will blow if you push the limits n/a. I don't have a race car, I want the power when I want it, but it doesn't get driven a ton and it doesn't get driven hard. I'll save up the $5k for a blower and then when it's paid off I'll build the motor. :peace: |
You only made 430 with a ls2 gto with those mods? I know some LS1 motors that have made that with less.
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stock heads, stock manifold, no porting They dyno anywhere between 330-350 stock. So cam/LT/cai for 80-100 whp isn't far off. I know plenty of guys that made the same or less. |
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I think a lot of people look at these cars and compare them to the terminators which have around the same amount of power stock. However, they are 2 very different cars. Obviously the terminators have way more potential due to the forged motor. I'd say if you are trying to go for anything north of 600whp you better start looking into building the motor and full fuel system. |
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I have a buddy at work that is debating between a new Evo and a 5.0. He's got a 2014/13 Dodge Dart that he JUST bought and was wanting to mod it for power. I said, why didn't you just buy an actual performance car? He started looking at newer cars and decided between the two mentioned. Now he's planning to take a huge hit on depreciation for his new car for an even newer car, spend all of his tax return plus any other money for a down payment AND have larger payments when he could have saved a ton from just buying the better car the first time. Juss sayin lol. -Alex |
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I plan on saving $5k and putting a Paxton on there and seeing what 550+ish feels like. Then when I have more money saved up I can build certain elements of it and increase power. But if I want until I have all of the money to do both at the same time I won't be able to have fun with anything over near stock hp until then. So I'm adding at least a year or two of time with current power just because I wanted to "do it right the first time" when I could be safely having fun with 550 hp while saving up $$$. I realize some of you guys can just go and do whatever you want, but you can't easily support a family AND dump money when you feel like it in the mustang on $50k a year. |
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I see where Alex is coming from also. Never know when the motor is gonna give out on boost(or with any mods) and it's better to have it prepared to handle the load you want. But at the same time those upgraded parts could fail then the car is down for who knows how long till you can afford a replacement for the upgraded part(s)
In all honesty with the whole #8 issue, almost everybody with 5.0's should have like $6k for a new motor in case but I'd say 70% don't |
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-Alex |
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That's why I want to put on a Paxton and then when the money comes along to make the whole system stronger and last longer and maybe go to 600. I have ZERO desire to go any further. I'm making the car faster for me and my wife, not to race or measure with somebody else. |
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My point was in respect to being considered "quick" or "fast" around here. I simply stated I don't care. I used to street race, I used to spend money on cars to compete with other people and I used to care about how much I had and how much the next guy did. But not anymore. I'm modding the car for me and mine for pure fun, not competition. So that's why I feel I'll be ok with 550 because it's just for us- no competition. |
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-Alex |
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Times?
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Nice. Nice mph.
Now get some tires! |
lol you can say that again Slow I felt like I was ice skating out there
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Kennedale was open today? I thought about going out, but not in these cold temps
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Ennis is 2 hours away....and my car is pretty much stock...I'm good. lol
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March 21st? |
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I'm eventually going to start dragracing but i deffinatly want my weld RTS bigs and littles first.. no reason to go out there with 440 rwhp and just spin the tires all the way down the track..
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