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When it comes to oil it's real simple. Weight grade and service requirement. The oil molecules themselves do not wear out. The additives do. Like I stated before, it is the oil recommended by Ferrari after they closed their deal with Mobil. Actually Monil is considered to not be one of the best. I've hear equal amounts of stories about other brands of oils and its just that....stories.
"Paraffin is the proper organic chemistry word for aliphatic hydrocarbons...more commonly known as oil. It is also the correct name for wax and candles. But there is as much difference between paraffin wax and paraffin oil as there is between a chestnut horse and a horse chestnut. They just aint the same thing. Don't matter whether you're talking about Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline or your wife's Christmas candles. If you like Pennzoil, use it worry free" Once again there aren't any bad oil as they all have to meet the service requirements set forth by the gov't. Synthetic is better then conventional is about the only truth. |
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Edit: Except Pennsoil Ultra, this has been the one product they have I've heard good things about. |
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I'm not trying to discredit you in any way but where do you get your info, I may as well do some more reading. Just seems when you see results from oil samples done by a third party that actually show differences between brands, it seems hard to believe they are all the same. But like I said earlier, for vehicles not being beat on, they will all do the job, some just do it better than others. |
Walmart's oil prices are hard to beat when you buy oil in the 5 quart jug and then tack on 3 more quarts. Mobil 1 Extended comes out to be around $40 something altogher then I just take it to Sam Pack and let the do the labor and grab a fitler for about $15 more.
Yeah all of these oil test out pretty well and meet gov't guidelines based upon their change interval. That's not the point though. I have been researching like Luke for the absolute best for our cars. Seems like Amsoil and Royal Purple is the consensus favorites based upon Coyote oil samples. Yeah Motorcraft works just fine, but it's not the best for our engines. Either way all of these oils will probably take the car to 100k, but again I want the proven best especially when they all cost around the same (by tier at least) and have extremely similar change intervals. The industry and tuners will eventually find out as Coyotes age. |
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Links references to pennzoil I just googled. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...&Number=623736 http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/penn...dge-44640.html |
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Amsoil is gd dnt get me wrong. I really like it. It comes down to what your doing with it. If you race all the time then yea def wrth it. If daily and race every now and then I'd go with a really gd off the shelf.
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It's one thing to meet certain requirements, but it is another to exceed those requirements. Yes you are correct, the oil molecules do not wear out, but the additives do. And its those additives in pennsoil that cause the sludging and problems I have personally seen many many times first hand.
At the end of the day, everyone has their own opinion. Personally I have run nothing but mobil 1, valvoline and motorcraft with 0 issues. The oil is always in good shape(for used oil) when I change it, every engine I have torn down after using these oils have shown little to no sign of abnormal wear. The engine in my mustang now, I removed it with the intensions of a coyote swap. While the engine was out I checked the bearings out before trying to sell it, and they looked just as new as when i had installed them 5k extremely hard miles ago. I ended up putting a smaller cam and putting the motor back in the car for now and it runs great, makes 80 lbs of oil pressure. I run mobil 1 10w-40 in it with a motorcraft filter. |
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