Engineers kill for 80lbs over the nose of a car FYI plus the engine is smaller an sits lower in the bay. I made 400whp in mine on stock ports for 40k miles and was still running when I sold it. Comp was 100+ on each rotor. Cooling and everything had been improved. It's not a car for the machanically retarded.

the car itself is mechanically retarded. but i would agree to successfully over time keep a car like that you need to be exceptional with it and put up with a lot of bullshit.

http://www.mr2turbz.com/signatures/sig4.jpg

all LSX motor rx7...

nuff said?

Yea...you need to look up rx3's and 2's. they are dippin into the low 7's.

ok great... not the same car... but the same all motor rx7 is daily drivable... anything with a rotary modified and rotary in general will have problems with longevity--i've never meant to say they weren't fast, just not fast AND RELIABLE.

If something is truly fast it's never gonna be truly reliable.

i dunno hoss... the all motor in the 9s seems decent enough for me. any faster your spraying and boosting and shit and even then i'd want to be doing that on pistons not rotards....

again we're going to have to agree to disagree, i still wouldn't own another rx7 unless it have an lsx in it.

i remember that fateful morning like yesturday... the week prior comp tested, rotors were 90 and 83 i think. Mazda tech was like yeah its a little low but you should still be good for awhile. turn the key... click...click....click...

all ads i've seen for rx7s and rx8s with 60k miles and up mention a rebuild :boxed:

anyway man, you got the tools and the know how play with rotors, i want something i dont have to fuck with too much. peeaceee

First mistake Mazda tech. Tells me right there you didn't work on your own crap and trusted the dealer. Big no no. Rotaries don't click click. Actually at low compression they start easier as the clearance are shrunk by being cold. Even during hot start with low compression they still start. Hell they will start on one rotor.

I've never owned a rotary. Only driven customer's mazdas with rotarys. I think they're cool in theory. But have always been told that its only a matter of time before they blow up? Oh well. I think they sound cool. Anyways, I bought my mustang with the intention of paying it off and keeping it for years. So we'll see how it works out. It is my daily driver along my my motorcycle. I try to ride as much as I can to keep from putting miles on the car. I used to have a tacoma, but between the mustang and harley the truck was getting neglected. So I sold it. When the weather is nice, I sometimes have a problem deciding between car or bike! #firstworldproblems lololol

Always wanted a Harley truck. 04 two time silver/black.

Shamu.

i've already told you i dont work on engines. If you cant trust an ase certified dude on whatever then wtf right? He worked at a dealer and had a shop by his house in crowley that he also worked on whatever out there. The engine had locked up as a seal had given out.. and low compression can also mean a seal weakening? thus click click.

wankle engines are fucking gay end of story:suicide:

Just clocked over 45k miles on my 2012. Enjoyed every mile of driving the car. Not afraid to drive it, especially since it is still within the factory powertrain warranty and covered by an extended warranty up to over 80k miles. I would plan to pay it off sooner but, I'd rather have cash on hand so I pay slightly more on my car payment and tuck the rest away in the piggy bank. Emergency money > less debt.

-Alex

I got mine with the cpo 100k warranty. Why buy new?

Only people that are baller status buy new and like getting hit with instant depreciation. I'll never buy a brand new car. Ever.

-Alex

I assume mine will retain the factory 5/60 that came with it when the original owner bought it?

If that's the case I have until Nov of 2016 and I'll never hit 60k by then. My car ('11 GT/CS) was bought in 11/11 and I bought it in 2/13 with 11k miles on it. Right now it still only has 15k on it.