| Dominic Toretto |
07-08-2013 11:56 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by 46Tbird
(Post 39055)
The REAL problem with the rear of these cars is the gigantic dinner-plate sized 'faux gas cap' they tacked to the back of each and every one of them, and they scaled-up the tail lights to match. Bleh.
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Agreed, I plan on getting the delete kit for that myself. Just the blackout strip that goes across the decklid. Not tinting or modding the lights at all though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyD
(Post 39077)
No, just no.
His wheels weight as much as your stock 18s do. The only thing Steve would be lacking in would be cornering ability as his sidewall is much shorter than yours, but it would be made up by the fact his tires have a full 2-3 inches more surface contact to the pavement than your 18s have.
rotating mass > static/unsprung (dead) mass all day long.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 46Tbird
(Post 39109)
Great theory, but my "heavy" 20s have made my stock untuned car quicker than a bunch of modded ones. You might want to rethink your theory.
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Since the thread is already derailed I will add my 2 cents about wheels.
From what I have read, the most significant reason manufacturer's have to increase wheel size is to be able to use larger brake rotors and calipers. That's really about it. That's the real reason I personally did not want to go with 20s because of the increased weight of a larger wheel and not planning to go with a big break kit to justify the look. There are several factors to consider with whether or not a bigger wheel is performance-wise justifiable.
Weight
Size
Barrell diameter (for brakes of course)
Build process
My car came with 18X8 inch wheels. I don't have to by 20 inch wheels to increase contact patch. I could easily(and cheaper) select a 18X11, be marginally heavier assuming the wheels are cast like stock, and have a far greater tire choice to go with, while being able to keep braking as best as possible. Now also keep in mind that if I go from a 18X8 to a 20X11 that is forged it would potentially weigh marginally less if not the same. In that case then it makes performance as well as visual sense. However, I am not one of the ballers on this forum and don't plan on spending $4,000 for wheels alone. Yes, quality forged wheels can run that much, HRE, Forgeline etc.
Also consider this about wheel size. It takes a 20inch rim longer to completely rotate than an 18inch wheel respectively. That's why you don't see professional drag racers running huge wheel setups. For those looking to set records, they will not choose a larger wheel, in fact they either go with 18s or SMALLER with a fat DR to hook up with skinny up front.
-Alex |
