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I would haggle down to $32k maybe its a little high and just because they added $10k of mods the cost doesn't transfer when selling
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If your gonna buy a used car for 30k+ get a 2008+ C6
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Only vette I'd ever own is a C6Z06. ANDDDdddd maybe a new C7
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Can't go wrong with a blown 5.0. My TVS car was one of the ones you were looking at.
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With all the cars I've looked at recently, I've just been taking my time as to not make a rash decision. |
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this thread. wow. :okay2:
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You guys with blowers, are you building the bottom end or just slapping on a blower, boosting the hell out of it and calling it a day?
-Alex |
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I don't think anybody on here is building a bottom end until it lets go. At least not that I can tell. |
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-Alex |
I don't plan on upping the boost in my car anytime soon. I am keeping it fairly tame since this car sees more daily driving and road course duty than time at the strip. If I ever get the wild hair to go faster, I will probably build the bottom end/internals.
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Depends on how long the bottom end lasts lol |
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-Alex |
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Been told the rods are the weak point in the GT's |
Ive heard the piston ring landings are weak as well.
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I heard the driver is the weak link on the new 5.0s...especially in the group
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With a good tune most people are keeping the stock block together up to the 650HP mark. Past that it seems to be just a matter of time.
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It's all a shot in the dark. I just tore apart a 100% bone stock 5.0 engine no intake, exhaust etc and it has broken ring lands on 5 pistons!! Cylinders 2, and 5-8 all are broken.
To answer the question about boss vs gt, the cranks are exactly the same save for the balance job. The pistons are a mahle brand forging and the rods are an, IMO, weaker then stock gt, very thin rod. Also there seems to be assumptions that the boss rods and pistons are lighter, when in fact they are heavier then the gt stuff. I will tank pics and give weights tomorrow when I get back to the shop but IMO I would say the gt stuff may be stronger. <620 rwhp you should be fine unless the ringlands fail. More then that you are just on borrowed time IMO. Another major weaklink is the block for you crazy hp guys. The sleeves are extremely thin, I would not recommend more then 850 rwhp on a stock block. More then that an you are just on borrowed time. At this point I have built about 15 of these coyote engines with 4 in the shop now waiting to get done. I have pretty much seen every different failure and each time it's either number 8 failure a ringland fails or just too much damn power for a stock short block at 700+. Take it for what it's worth, this is just my own hands on experience with these engines. Now to answer the op, personally I am a little bias to procharger. I have installed every brand except vortech and hands down the procharger is the easiest and simplest kit to install. It requires very little to no modification to the vehicle with everything being reversible and not having to cut every piece of plastic under the good like some of the other brands. The kb kits are also very nice but come at a price. I personally am considering a procharger for my ls swapped c10. Hehe |
What procharger would you recommend? I like the idea of just o/r exhaust, a circle d convertor and a procharger and that's it. (besides whatever supporting mods needed. Bap, oil pump? etc.)
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My P1SC is still running the canned ProCharger tune set for 7 PSI. Right now I am working with getting a dyno session with Maximum Velocity for a Lund Tune. I have some issue with drive ability under light throttle that I am looking to get fixed. As for the RPM range, you can feel the centri really kicking in between 3-4k range.
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-Alex |
Id like to race one of these sc'd 50s...
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Fastest I've been was 11.6 at 124 with 20" 555rs. 1.9 60ft. Just you give you an idea. And I am having to shift into 5th before the trap.
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I'm game. I don't know what I dyno with the new tune but I'd imagine it's in the 560 range.
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-Alex |
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Thanks Steve. Trying to keep it subtle. I keep going back and forth on the CF hood vents. Once the lower grille comes in I'll be just about done with exterior mods. Then back to motor.
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I agree. After a few red cars in a row now, I wanted this one to be understated, clean and subtle as well. I find myself wondering sometimes if it's too understated though and needs some kind of exterior mod. I really do like the throwback look of the 68 Stang it has right now though.
Back to the race topic though - I think JD, Strokd and Merlin should do a three wide race to see how that goes. Would be a fun race to see! |
Well my car is for sale so I can move on to one of these FI 5.0's that I'm seeing for sale!
There are a ton for sale in the 30-35k range with a lot of mods |
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Looking to buy a blown 5-0 eh??? |
Yep, as soon as mine is gone there are a few I'm going to put in offers on the very same day
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I noticed in your sig, you have Shaun's tunes. I have his tunes on my N/A now and I'll probably take his advice and get a Roush Phase 2, ID1000's, etc.. Just curious as to how you liked performance, etc. Any heat soak problems in Tx, OK heat? Thanks |
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