8000k in rain is similar to shining a blue led on a black piece of construction paper, you can't see the reflection for shit.

:rotflmao: SFT!!!

Yeah, you are correct. I thin some leans a little more towards 4400-4500K, like Benz and BMW, or their projector setups are just that awesome with amazing color shift.

I've tried explaining that to people, but they are ignorant. On top of what you stated, blue light is the most sensitive to light refraction than any other color, which is why those blue lights are completely worthless in the rain, and dangerous to other drivers because of the glare they create. I love coming up beside a donk or some other hoopty running 8000K+ HIDs and completely drowing out their light pattern with my headlights on my car. :D

I think its the projectors. Every German car Ive seen uses the best projectors. The americas are a little behind on this still. [/QUOTE]

Right now I have 6000k DDM tuning kit on my stock 11-12 non HID head lamps. I love it, never had major problems other than accidentally exposing my wiring harness to water (my fault). Light output is a lot better and cleaner looking. It tends to be a bit blue though, I feel like my old ballasts cranked out better wattage and made the light a bit more white looking. Anywho, I went with DDM mainly because of the price and the quality is impressive considering the price you are paying. I also have the GT/CS fasia fogs but not running HIDs in those. I have some aftermarket bulbs Brent referred me to. They are super bright white light with a very very subtle hint of blue. I just need to align the damn things. Aligning the 11-12 GT/CS fogs are a huge pain in the ass.

I guarantee you get 5k's you will ove it more!

Been seriously considering it. That or stepping it up to 55watt, that might be a bit too bright though.

4300k preferrably if you can find it. I had to look for awhile.:patriot:

DDM has 4500k

I ran those. No difference in color from 4300k imo. Bumping the wattage washes the color and generates more heat. Oems use 35w.

Danny, get some 50W ballasts and 5000K bulbs from TRS. You will wonder why you didn't in the first place. :D

Unfortunately we can't run a 50W system in our '13 cars unless we completely disregard the built in ballasts from the factory. I've thought about it, but figured if I'm going to do that, I will just retrofit a FXR projector system from TRS into the headlights, as a guy over on F150online.com did to his 2013 F150 headlights.

Oh, and your fog light bulbs are probably Hoen.

Ya i'd probably stick to the 35w, I think they are plenty bright I probably just need a tad bit less color.

4300 to 5k your good. 4300 being the best.

50W in the headlights will be fine. And you can actually get better color and more lumens from a 50W 5000K setup than you can a 35W 4300K setup.

I changed my 35W 5000K setup to a 50W 5000K setup with DDM stuff and even though the color shifted down in Kelvin slightly, there was way more light. Too bad it was scatttered like hell from the F150 reflector housing.

You don't think the concentration of heat will damage the housing, especially if it's a projector type? I had a buddy run the 50w and I think that's what caused his headlights to slowly yellow.

Holy shit, a thread about ricer lights goes four pages....

I love me some pretty lights... as long as they are functional and serve a purpose.

Theres alot that goes into kelvin and wattage that determines the specific light output.

What's rice about them, Danny? The fact that yellow is the most functional color to be used to cut through fog? No one said anything about driving around with them on all the time like the rivers do.

Function > form. HIDs are amazing, when done properly and correctly. Sucks it too so long for them to finally overcome halogen bulbs.


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The 11-12 reflector housings are big enough to dissipate the small increase in heat, I'm pretty sure. I know my F150 headlights were.

As for projector setups, they have a much better venting system due to the decreased size of the housing, but Xenon bulbs also burn much cooler than halogen bulbs. A 50W Xenon bulbs burns about the same Fahrenheit temps as a 20-30W halogen since you are igniting an inert gas rather than heating a metal element through resistance which creates most of the heat.


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Yep. LED will be the next big thing. Low heat, low maintenance, not shock/vibration sensitive and long lasting. Aftermarket LED conversion kits are just starting to hit the market, they aren't quite there on output compared to 4300k xenon or factory LED lamps, but they're close.

I just bout a new 5k kit, lol an entire kit is cheaper than buying replacement bulbs from DDM. I'm happy with the output my 35w puts out. My wife already gripes at me how bright they are I just want to change the color a bit to more white then and less blue.

Oh an the stock housing is rated at 55w halogens, so 55w xenon should be fine.

Thread from the dead. I'm a newb to electronics. What's the difference in 35W and 55W. Yes I know 20W for the inevitable smartass remarks lol :). Guessing one draws more power off the battery?

-Alex

As well as generates more heat.

I am thinking about ordering a set from DDM since they are cheap and can't really be upset if I eff anything up. The only harness option is for Dual in Dual out, what does that mean? And what is an Error eliminator?

-Alex

Error eliminator is for the BMW cars, which have relay error codes for when a ballasts goes out.

As for the dual in dual out, I am not sure. I would assume it's a daul ended harness to tap each individual ballasts into the battery.

I have a set of yellow HIDS if anyone wants them. 20$

What bulb type?

-Alex

About to place my order with DDM. There is only one option for "HID Harness" which is "Dual in Dual Out." Is this something I need to order or no?

When I click the description it gives this text:

"Use this relay harness to connect HIDs to cars with very small gauge wiring that cannot supply the initial surge current required to light the bulbs reliably. Symptoms indicating the harness is required would be intermittent starting or lights going out after being turned on for several minutes and requiring you to turn the lights off and back on for them to turn back on again. Recommended for all 55W HID installations but most American and European cars work at 35W/55W without the harness. The harness is definitely recommended for Quad';s and other ATVs or when running multiple HID installations. This harness is a fused relay isolation harness capable of supplying 20A at 12vdc. Not required when using High / Low kits."

Since this will be for fogs and I am not using any other HIDs, should I go ahead and order this harness?

-Alex

It's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.

Good rule of thumb.

-Alex