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Jeff's car also does not have drag radials, his tires are more of a road race tire than a drag radial. Not good for dead stops, A stock 5.0 on stock tires, a tune, and auto will run 12.33@114. Easy to drive and not to hard to put into drive and let it shift its way down the track. We did this in my wife's car at full weight 100% stock with nothing but our tune up in it. A Manuel will take seat time, does not matter how much seat time i have in my drag radial car. This car has to be revved very high to make power with cams, ported heads and a small motor. Reving a car to 5,000rpms and expected it to hook well on a tire that is a little better than a true street tire is just silly and I told Jeff this. Trying to run the car in these is silly and a waste of time if you are truly looking for performance. So let's break down the slip that his car ran 11.8 60ft 1.91 Put slicks on and adjust that 60ft, every 100th on the 60ft is worth 200th on the other end (1/4 mile racing) 60ft 1.60 11.2 in same air..... Not a record by any means but still a fast street car none the less I witness some pretty bad driving last night by some and I witness some pretty awesome driving by others. It takes time to learn a car and know what it needs. Everyone should pull together and enjoy this hobby, all this shit talking is getting very old and will run off members if it continues. No one like to fight Jeff you are going to have to take some poking after last night. It just comes with it, you need to go out with the right tire, practice practice practice till you are happy with your times and then make your call outs. Till then I would not make any call outs, shit talking , fights about what the car should do. JUST GO OUT AND LEARN YOUR CAR!!! My 2 cents |
Just post the two little pieces of paper already
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My uneducated post was simply to explain to Jeff that MANY other people of all sorts of power levels use small drag radial tires, True Street classes too, so the requirement of a slick is null and void.
Where's the time slips so we can compare the splits? |
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You put your car in drive and let your tuner do all your shifting for you in your auto. A stick takes much more to make it work, (I drive a auto too) Autos = drag radial Manuel = slick Promise this is not a pissing match but this is true |
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I'd throw myself over a cliff if I spent as much money as Jeff did to get an 11.8 no traction or 11.2 with traction out of my car NA when others have gone faster with a lot less (wbt, kdanner, CasperGT, shaun@aed, 04compgt, me) all stock heads and cams and internals.
With 520+ HP he should be mile per houring at 130 or better even if he is spinning. |
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I know autos need drs and manuals need slicks...but how do all the manual True Street guys get down the track since they can't run slicks?
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So Jeff you have no data to learn from the next time you go to the track? Keep them next time :-)
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DOT bias is what I'd be on. |
Kdanner types faster...
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See you all later this week...going to bed now to wake up to start the drive down from Detroit back to Dallas at 5am CST
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So I don't see the point of keeping them right now when I need to learn how to drive this car all over again at the track. |
I like nachos! All 3 of them!
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Dad says "Jeff, listen to kdanner and wbt more often and faster you will go!"
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Jeff's car is not a drag car, not set up for it, has all the interior in it ect..... Wbt and me visited for a bit last night and seems to know his stuff pretty well. He know how to prep his car for the track, one light weigh seat, no interior, true big and little wheels, proper tires for his set up. This is just what I seen by walking by his car. Seem to know his car and what it took to make it preform Jeff's does not know his car, does not have proper suspension for what he was doing last night, needs to Lear how to drive the car better, pull unnessiary weight for track, put proper wheel and tires ect..... But Jeff only needs to do this if he is trying to see the peak performance in drag racing. If he is going to fight with you guys all the time then he needs to make the car track ready before going to the track. But to compair how much tie. You have, and the other cars listed I'm sure there times they are running now are not the times they ran there first time to the track. |
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I'm not one to really stick up for Jeff since he did talk massive shit before last night so he had some of this coming. But are some of you guys really comparing autos stalled cars with no seats that go to the track every weekend to a guy with a full weight car with a new combo and also his first time to the track with it., let not forget a stick.
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I have a Honda that hangs around our shop that makes 498fwhp... It traps 140mph in the 1/4 mile..... How do you figure that? Well I will tell you, power to weight is everything in drag racing. Jeff claims his car weighs over 3850 with out him in the car. That would make it over 4000lb with him in the car going down the track. Weight will kill mph..... My fox body back in the day made 400rwhp (1996) weighed 3196 with me in it and traped 128.8mph. You have to quit taking the times the fast guys on the Internet are runing and thinking that a little higher dyno number should make a heavy car not set up to track with a new driver should run with the educated and prepared racer. Raw power will not over come weight and set up |
You have got to be kidding me. There's the no interior BS again. Hello? What are you going to do with a rear seat when you have a roll bar? Yes the passenger seat is pulled, nobody else does that? Yes when at the track it has a far safer driver seat in it to properly accommodate the harness, nobody else does that?
Everyone knows the back seat doesn't weigh shit. The passenger seat is around 45lbs. That driver seat saves about 20lbs. Then there's the part no one seems to want to talk about, the weight added right back in from all the safety equipment, that car is 100% legal to 10 flat. That car is no lighter than it would be with the stock seats present and the aftermarket shit not present. |
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The difference in knowing your car and not is doing all your own work vs. paying someone else to do it for you. Also having experience racing and knowing how to put a good combination of parts together helps. One that that floors me is how much money people waste on bright shiny objects. Just to name a few: MMR head cooling mod CAI's Intake manifold heat shields Any JLT product ...the list goes on. I didn't run 10's the first time out with my car but I did run 11's with a tune, tires/wheels and the passenger seat removed. The car was bone stock down to the mufflers outside of those changes: As my car sits, the only change I make to it between street and track are wheels/tires and I put the radio antenna back on. That's it. I use the same tune and everything else to drive with on the street. http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/u...0GT/IMG047.jpg For the car being gutted, I addressed that in this post: http://www.dfw50s.com/showpost.php?p...&postcount=299 I know you are not being confrontational but wanted to clear a few things up. :waytogo: Thanks for stopping by to chat last night. |
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