Oil change cost?

[MnemonicGhost]

Just got back from my first oil change at Bob Tomes in McKinney. I had whatever coupon they list online for the "works" at 39.99, but they said the 5.0 takes 8 quarts and the special only covered 5 of synthetic.

Price out the door was 76.10 with some "discount" to bring it to 68.46. I also have a 10 dollar mail in rebate thing too, but I doubt that will be always available.

So does that sound about right? At 70 bucks, I might as well do it myself, but I do like having dealer proof that it's maintained as well...

[Midnight11]

i think i paid 32 last time at the dealer...

[Dan12GT]

Thats about right. 8 quarts at $7-8 a quart plus filter puts you around 70-80 bucks, depending on the oil. The great thing is we can go 10k miles so it kind of balances out.

[Luke]

When I worked at the dealer we would take coupons from any legit quick lube place, and being that you're using synthetic that price makes sense. I'm not home so didn't want to make my wife deal with getting AMSOIL yet so it's getting RP right now and it was about $80 just for the oil... we do get free service though from the dealer so that helps.

BTW, what oil are you using?

[MnemonicGhost]

This is through the Ford dealership, so the oil should be motorcraft synthetic or a least semi-synthetic.

[Luke]

Motorcraft synthetic is garbage, it's not worth the extra money, if it's synthetic-blend you overpaid. SVTP and BITOG both have good write ups and info on synthetic oils. This next oil change I have RP 5w-30 HPS going in and the one after that will be AMSOIL SS 5w-30. I'll be sending out samples of the 5w-20 Motorcraft that is currently in it as well as on the next two changes. Blackstone Labs will send you a free sample kit if it's something you're interested in.

[downtime!]

$80 bucks every other month for mine, done at a local change place in Keller. I've used them for years and it's the only place I'd ever go.

[Luke]

Every other month? Why so often?

[TrueStreetTim]

Your looking at +/- $70 in oil and filter alone (depending on brand etc.). That's not including labor to rack and do the work. So $70 to me is a wash....or "service" if you prefer.

[Grandpa]

You're suppose to change the oil in these things?!

[DirtyD]

You're suppose to change the oil in these things?!

If you drive it, yeah. :p

[Grandpa]

If you drive it, yeah. :p

Oh, cool. So I'm good then. :troll3:

[Dan12GT]

if you drive it, yeah. :p

boom!

[DirtyD]

Oh, cool. So I'm good then. :troll3:

:lol:

[downtime!]

Every other month? Why so often?Because I drive the shit of if mine! LOL! Had her 23 months now and have nearly 40,000 miles on her. Heading out for a road trip Monday which should add at least 3500 to the clock.

[Smurf50]

Mine was over 90 just last week :( Kwik Kar at least had the Motorcraft 5w-20 and Motorcraft filter...so that was a plus...

[re-rx7]

There aren't any bad oils these days. That being said, Mobil isn't even considered top quality anymore.

[DirtyD]

Mine was over 90 just last week :( Kwik Kar at least had the Motorcraft 5w-20 and Motorcraft filter...so that was a plus...

Holy shit man, go to the dealer if you are going to use Ford oil and filter!

[re-rx7]

Mine was over 90 just last week :( Kwik Kar at least had the Motorcraft 5w-20 and Motorcraft filter...so that was a plus...

Holy shit man, go to the dealer if you are going to use Ford oil and filter!

This.

[Smurf50]

Holy shit man, go to the dealer if you are going to use Ford oil and filter!

So I learned... /sigh

[merlinmol]

Since I got the track pack, Ford puts in 5w-50. I used that for break in miles, but I had RP 5w-30 XPR for SEMA and recent track sessions. I just did the 2nd oil change a few weeks ago and went to RP 5w-30 HPS, the XPR is a little too rich for my blood and I don't consistantly race.

[Toby]

Thats about right. 8 quarts at $7-8 a quart plus filter puts you around 70-80 bucks, depending on the oil. The great thing is we can go 10k miles so it kind of balances out.

I would not do that.. 3k, 4k TOPS is all that I will recommend regardless of the type or brand.

[Toby]

There aren't any bad oils these days. That being said, Mobil isn't even considered top quality anymore.

Depends who you ask. I run what ever brand oreillys has on special synthetic along with either a motor craft filter on the mustang and wix filter on the truck. Typically they will have valvoline or Mobil on sale for $30 with a filter..

[re-rx7]

Depends who you ask. I run what ever brand oreillys has on special synthetic along with either a motor craft filter on the mustang and wix filter on the truck. Typically they will have valvoline or Mobil on sale for $30 with a filter..
This is true. Like I said all oils are pretty much even besides race oils which contain more zddp and zinc. Mobil is gd dont get me wrong, just not the leader it once was as the other companies have caught up.

[re-rx7]

I would not do that.. 3k, 4k TOPS is all that I will recommend regardless of the type or brand.
5k is my minimum. If you change synthetic at 3k your just wasting money. I usually change mine every 5k sometimes 6k. The days of 3k miles oil changes are gone. :GetMoney:

[downtime!]

3k like clockwork here. It has always been good practice, and it still is. Especially if you actually use the car for what it was intended to do (and no, that doesn't mean just drive it). Trips to Mexico, trips to the track, just dailying a supercharged car, all good reasons to ignore the 10K guideline.

[re-rx7]

3k like clockwork here. It has always been good practice, and it still is. Especially if you actually use the car for what it was intended to do (and no, that doesn't mean just drive it). Trips to Mexico, trips to the track, just dailying a supercharged car, all good reasons to ignore the 10K guideline.
So you can break down your synthetic oil in 3k miles? Its your car but your wasting money.

[DirtyD]

When I ran a regular oil in my truck, I changed as close to 3k as I could. Since ford switched to synth-blend, I still did 3k on my truck as it was up there in miles, but I wasn't as worries if I over shot by 1k or so.

Now with my car, I do 5k intervals in synth-blend, but I will be doing 7-8k intervals when I make the switch to full synthetic.

[Smurf50]

How accurate is the computer in the car for the oil life %? I changed mine when it said it was at 25% just to make sure (and I don't know what was done for the 11k miles that I DIDN'T own my car...)

[Luke]

Since I got the track pack, Ford puts in 5w-50. I used that for break in miles, but I had RP 5w-30 XPR for SEMA and recent track sessions. I just did the 2nd oil change a few weeks ago and went to RP 5w-30 HPS, the XPR is a little too rich for my blood and I don't consistantly race.

From what I've read the 5w-50 was just to cover all vehicles across the nation in all climates under harder driving conditions. I run the same RP HPS, what made you switch?

I would not do that.. 3k, 4k TOPS is all that I will recommend regardless of the type or brand.

I change at 5k right now but this is part of why I'll be sending in oil samples to be tested, I'd like to see what's left in the oil. RP and AMSOIL are confident in getting 10k between changes under "normal" driving conditions.

[merlinmol]

From what I've read the 5w-50 was just to cover all vehicles across the nation in all climates under harder driving conditions. I run the same RP HPS, what made you switch?

RP was one of my sponsors for SEMA, they gave me a case of 5w30 XPR which is their full race oil. I didn't see the sense in spending that kind of money to keep XPR so I stepped down to HPS since I don't race the car often enough to justify it. They use the same additive in both formula's.:favorites13:

[Emwun Garand]

9 quarts of Mobil 1 = $100

[downtime!]

So you can break down your synthetic oil in 3k miles? Its your car but your wasting money.How is it wasting money if the car gets driven hard and still runs like new? Would it do the same if I changed it less frequently? Maybe. Am I willing to find out? No. Oil changes are very cheap compared to the cost of a new engine.

[re-rx7]

How is it wasting money if the car gets driven hard and still runs like new? Would it do the same if I changed it less frequently? Maybe. Am I willing to find out? No. Oil changes are very cheap compared to the cost of a new engine.
Because most likely you would be able run it at least 5k miles before it needs any changing under the same conditions. The idea of 3k mile oil changes was true in the old days. Oil has advanced plenty over the years. Also check out bobistheoilguy.com/

http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop-changing-your-oil.html

[Zeek]

I drive the crap outta my car. Changed the oil once so far and I'm at 17k miles! Had it 8 months.

[re-rx7]

I drive the crap outta my car. Changed the oil once so far and I'm at 17k miles! Had it 8 months.

Id def send in a sample and see how it looks.

[downtime!]

Always go with what works for you. I've been building and racing cars since the late 70s and have never had an oil related failure. I'll stick with 3000 mile changes.

[Dan12GT]

When it comes time to change my Amsoil ill be sending it off for analysis. I may change it at 8k just to see where I am at there.

[re-rx7]

Always go with what works for you. I've been building and racing cars since the late 70s and have never had an oil related failure. I'll stick with 3000 mile changes.
Exactly your living in the 70's. Oil tech ahs came a long way just like engines. Saying the oil then is like the oil now is just stupid.:banghead:

[DirtyD]

I drive the crap outta my car. Changed the oil once so far and I'm at 17k miles! Had it 8 months.

That is just way to risky on a synth-blend oil, even if it's Motorcraft

[re-rx7]

That is just way to risky on a synth-blend oil, even if it's Motorcraft
I honestly will change mine between 6-8k. It just sounds right. :sunot:

[Zeek]

I'm at like 7.5k now on this oil change and its about time. Gotta go spend $80 on some Royal Purple I guess.

[re-rx7]

I'm at like 7.5k now on this oil change and its about time. Gotta go spend $80 on some Royal Purple I guess.
Waste of cash.

[Luke]

When it comes time to change my Amsoil ill be sending it off for analysis. I may change it at 8k just to see where I am at there.

Post up the results if you don't mind, Amsoil is what's going in next and I'd like to have more results to compare too.

Waste of cash.

Compared to Motorcraft? I'd have to disagree.

[re-rx7]

You really need to research motor oil....Just for shits. What makes motorcraft bad?

[Emwun Garand]

There's nothing wrong with Motorcraft oil, but if you want a full synthetic, you have to switch brands.

[DirtyD]

There's nothing wrong with Motorcraft oil, but if you want a full synthetic, you have to switch brands.

Yup.

[Luke]

You really need to research motor oil....Just for shits. What makes motorcraft bad?

From what I've read it breaks down much faster. I am by no means an oil guru, I have been trying to read up on different oils from different sources to gain some unbiased knowledge on it. So far I've found that for daily duty on a typical car all oils will protect as they should, but when it comes to racing and really putting strain on the parts a better oil will protect better and longer. For those that plan on getting rid of their cars before 100k I'm sure there isn't much personal benefit. I plan on running the dog shit out of mine and eventually when the time comes that I get a built motor, this one will hopefully be put into a foxbody and continue to run efficiently as it should.

[re-rx7]

From what I've read it breaks down much faster. I am by no means an oil guru, I have been trying to read up on different oils from different sources to gain some unbiased knowledge on it. So far I've found that for daily duty on a typical car all oils will protect as they should, but when it comes to racing and really putting strain on the parts a better oil will protect better and longer. For those that plan on getting rid of their cars before 100k I'm sure there isn't much personal benefit. I plan on running the dog shit out of mine and eventually when the time comes that I get a built motor, this one will hopefully be put into a foxbody and continue to run efficiently as it should.
Most oils when broke dwn get thicker. This is what kills a motor. 10PSI PER 1000RPM is a gd rule of thumb. When racing Id change oil every 1-2k miles or when your done as the street oil will lubricate better then the race oil on the daily trips.

[Hagen3great]

Pennzoil Ultra if you can find it is really good for about 60 on 10 quarts. Amsoil did a oil comparison in feb this year and while PU wasn't the best it was in the top performers. Oddly enough M1 extended performance didnt fare as well as I thought it would have and I've been using it (or similar full synthetic m1) for the last 10 years!

http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests.aspx

[Luke]

I've heard about Pennzoil Ultra being really good, it had slipped my mind, I've always heard terrible things about Pennzoil, but that was years ago.

And thanks for the link, you gave me something to do at work!

[faztcobra]

So you can break down your synthetic oil in 3k miles? Its your car but your wasting money.I don't know if break down or contaminate is the correct word, but HPP says for those of us running E85 (especially since its more like E90 around here) should continue to change our oil at 3k miles. Even on E85, I went 5k this last time with no issues.

That said, my oil change was free at Grapevine Ford yesterday. They have a sign up that says they have to do a vehicle walk-around inspection and pop the hood with you present or your oil change is free. The guy got sidetracked looking at my tires that need to be replaced that he didn't pop the hood. Otherwise, it'd have been $60.

[Luke]

I don't know if break down or contaminate is the correct word, but HPP says for those of us running E85 (especially since its more like E90 around here) should continue to change our oil at 3k miles. Even on E85, I went 5k this last time with no issues.

That said, my oil change was free at Grapevine Ford yesterday. They have a sign up that says they have to do a vehicle walk-around inspection and pop the hood with you present or your oil change is free. The guy got sidetracked looking at my tires that need to be replaced that he didn't pop the hood. Otherwise, it'd have been $60.

Haha, pretty cool that you got it for free, I probably wouldn't use that service advisor again though, he probably won't be too helpful, lol. I wonder if that came out of his check, do you recall the guy's name? My wife is actually there right now, they asked her why she brought her own oil and if something was wrong with the car.

[faztcobra]

Haha, pretty cool that you got it for free, I probably wouldn't use that service advisor again though, he probably won't be too helpful, lol. I wonder if that came out of his check, do you recall the guy's name? My wife is actually there right now, they asked her why she brought her own oil and if something was wrong with the car.McBride was the last name. Don't remember the first, maybe Todd???

[Dan12GT]

Post up the results if you don't mind, Amsoil is what's going in next and I'd like to have more results to compare too.

Will do!

[re-rx7]

I don't know if break down or contaminate is the correct word, but HPP says for those of us running E85 (especially since its more like E90 around here) should continue to change our oil at 3k miles. Even on E85, I went 5k this last time with no issues.

That said, my oil change was free at Grapevine Ford yesterday. They have a sign up that says they have to do a vehicle walk-around inspection and pop the hood with you present or your oil change is free. The guy got sidetracked looking at my tires that need to be replaced that he didn't pop the hood. Otherwise, it'd have been $60.
With e85 yes I'd agree. It attracts moisture like a sponge.

[Toby]

You couldn't pay me to run pennsoil. We just got through fixing a gto that had been run on pennsoil it's whole life. All the lifters are trashed, had a bent and broken pushrod, and when we pulled the valve cover was pulled there was an huge amount of sludge. We asked the customer and he said that the oil was changed regularly with pennsoil. It definitely shows...

[Hagen3great]

That series of pennzoil? Conventional is shit due to the PA oil quality they have up there. Their synthetic is a different beast.

[re-rx7]

Omg. Pennzoil this Castro that. Pennzoil actually makes some of the best synthetic oil on the market. Standard on all Ferraris. Has a thin viscosity at start up and gd modifiers. I'm guessing you just took the customers word? I'm saying this...there is nothing wrong with pennzoil. Almost all synthetics are the same. In the 20 grade pennzoil may actually be one of te best.

[Toby]

The car itself looked to be well taken care of. This is not the first time I have seen these results when pennsoil was regularly run in a vehicle. I have worked in a mechanics shop for over 10 years now. I have seen cars come in that the oil was never changed in, ones that have 150k with regular service using conventional and synthetic. In my experience, pennsoil is pure junk, I would rather put used 10k mile oil in my car over pennsoil. Just is speaking from personal experience with what I have seen and dealt with in person, not what I read on some forum or blog on the Internet or what I saw in a magazine article.

[re-rx7]

When it comes to oil it's real simple. Weight grade and service requirement. The oil molecules themselves do not wear out. The additives do. Like I stated before, it is the oil recommended by Ferrari after they closed their deal with Mobil. Actually Monil is considered to not be one of the best. I've hear equal amounts of stories about other brands of oils and its just that....stories.
"Paraffin is the proper organic chemistry word for aliphatic hydrocarbons...more commonly known as oil. It is also the correct name for wax and candles. But there is as much difference between paraffin wax and paraffin oil as there is between a chestnut horse and a horse chestnut. They just aint the same thing. Don't matter whether you're talking about Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline or your wife's Christmas candles. If you like Pennzoil, use it worry free"
Once again there aren't any bad oil as they all have to meet the service requirements set forth by the gov't. Synthetic is better then conventional is about the only truth.

[Luke]

The car itself looked to be well taken care of. This is not the first time I have seen these results when pennsoil was regularly run in a vehicle. I have worked in a mechanics shop for over 10 years now. I have seen cars come in that the oil was never changed in, ones that have 150k with regular service using conventional and synthetic. In my experience, pennsoil is pure junk, I would rather put used 10k mile oil in my car over pennsoil. Just is speaking from personal experience with what I have seen and dealt with in person, not what I read on some forum or blog on the Internet or what I saw in a magazine article.

My stepdad has been an engine builder for years and he's said the same about Pennsoil, even the "I'd rather use used oil" part. I've never personally used it in anything but Pennsoil being garbage is what I commonly hear form people.

Edit: Except Pennsoil Ultra, this has been the one product they have I've heard good things about.

[Luke]

When it comes to oil it's real simple. Weight grade and service requirement. The oil molecules themselves do not wear out. The additives do. Like I stated before, it is the oil recommended by Ferrari after they closed their deal with Mobil. Actually Monil is considered to not be one of the best. I've hear equal amounts of stories about other brands of oils and its just that....stories.
"Paraffin is the proper organic chemistry word for aliphatic hydrocarbons...more commonly known as oil. It is also the correct name for wax and candles. But there is as much difference between paraffin wax and paraffin oil as there is between a chestnut horse and a horse chestnut. They just aint the same thing. Don't matter whether you're talking about Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline or your wife's Christmas candles. If you like Pennzoil, use it worry free"
Once again there aren't any bad oil as they all have to meet the service requirements set forth by the gov't. Synthetic is better then conventional is about the only truth.


I'm not trying to discredit you in any way but where do you get your info, I may as well do some more reading. Just seems when you see results from oil samples done by a third party that actually show differences between brands, it seems hard to believe they are all the same. But like I said earlier, for vehicles not being beat on, they will all do the job, some just do it better than others.

[saunupe1911]

Walmart's oil prices are hard to beat when you buy oil in the 5 quart jug and then tack on 3 more quarts. Mobil 1 Extended comes out to be around $40 something altogher then I just take it to Sam Pack and let the do the labor and grab a fitler for about $15 more.

Yeah all of these oil test out pretty well and meet gov't guidelines based upon their change interval. That's not the point though. I have been researching like Luke for the absolute best for our cars. Seems like Amsoil and Royal Purple is the consensus favorites based upon Coyote oil samples. Yeah Motorcraft works just fine, but it's not the best for our engines. Either way all of these oils will probably take the car to 100k, but again I want the proven best especially when they all cost around the same (by tier at least) and have extremely similar change intervals. The industry and tuners will eventually find out as Coyotes age.

[re-rx7]

I'm not trying to discredit you in any way but where do you get your info, I may as well do some more reading. Just seems when you see results from oil samples done by a third party that actually show differences between brands, it seems hard to believe they are all the same. But like I said earlier, for vehicles not being beat on, they will all do the job, some just do it better than others.

Walmart's oil prices are hard to beat when you buy oil in the 5 quart jug and then tack on 3 more quarts. Mobil 1 Extended comes out to be around $40 something altogher then I just take it to Sam Pack and let the do the labor and grab a fitler for about $15 more.

Yeah all of these oil test out pretty well and meet gov't guidelines based upon their change interval. That's not the point though. I have been researching like Luke for the absolute best for our cars. Seems like Amsoil and Royal Purple is the consensus favorites based upon Coyote oil samples. Yeah Motorcraft works just fine, but it's not the best for our engines. Either way all of these oils will probably take the car to 100k, but again I want the proven best especially when they all cost around the same (by tier at least) and have extremely similar change intervals. The industry and tuners will eventually find out as Coyotes age.
I accumulated my knowledge over the years. A lot of it when I had a rotary. Rotaries are extremely hard on oil as the oil does 1/3 of the cooling. Oil selection was vital. I researched and researched. Pennzoil got a bad rep back in the late 80's early 90's. nowadays the oil is fine. You say that they all meet the requirements just like i said but also state that's not the point. What is the point? Also funny story. A lot of people say it because the oil is made from Pennsylvania oil. The reason that is funny is because so is Brad Penn racing oil. Lol

Links references to pennzoil I just googled.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=623736
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/pennzoil-sludge-44640.html

[saunupe1911]

I accumulated my knowledge over the years. A lot of it when I had a rotary. Rotaries are extremely hard on oil as the oil does 1/3 of the cooling. Oil selection was vital. I researched and researched. Pennzoil got a bad rep back in the late 80's early 90's. nowadays the oil is fine. You say that they all meet the requirements just like i said but also state that's not the point. What is the point? Also funny story. A lot of people say it because the oil is made from Pennsylvania oil. The reason that is funny is because so is Brad Penn racing oil. Lol

Links references to pennzoil I just googled.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=623736
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/pennzoil-sludge-44640.html

The point I was trying to make is that I want the absolute best oil, especially since they have similiar price points among their tier groups. I guess it really doesn't matter what brand you use in the grand scheme of things because a lot their addtives seem to work extremely similiar. But one of the brands must have at least one leg up on the competition and so far results are showing that it's Amsoil. Time will tell though.

[re-rx7]

Amsoil is gd dnt get me wrong. I really like it. It comes down to what your doing with it. If you race all the time then yea def wrth it. If daily and race every now and then I'd go with a really gd off the shelf.

[Toby]

It's one thing to meet certain requirements, but it is another to exceed those requirements. Yes you are correct, the oil molecules do not wear out, but the additives do. And its those additives in pennsoil that cause the sludging and problems I have personally seen many many times first hand.

At the end of the day, everyone has their own opinion. Personally I have run nothing but mobil 1, valvoline and motorcraft with 0 issues. The oil is always in good shape(for used oil) when I change it, every engine I have torn down after using these oils have shown little to no sign of abnormal wear. The engine in my mustang now, I removed it with the intensions of a coyote swap. While the engine was out I checked the bearings out before trying to sell it, and they looked just as new as when i had installed them 5k extremely hard miles ago. I ended up putting a smaller cam and putting the motor back in the car for now and it runs great, makes 80 lbs of oil pressure. I run mobil 1 10w-40 in it with a motorcraft filter.