Vorshlag 2011 Mustang 5.0 GT - track/autocross/street Project

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Time Trial Results for Nov 3, 2013: http://timingscoring.drivenasa.com/N...e%20Trials.pdf

Seems like all the of the car breakage calmed down and nothing went wrong on Sunday, thankfully. Times generally dropped significantly from Saturday, except for me, where I ran nearly identical 1:55.2 best laps (either blocked or with serious brake fade) on both days, only a couple of hundredths quicker on Saturday. As I said above, KenO reset the TTB record to 1:57.603 on Sunday. Another E46 M3 customer, TTB racer Jason Covington had his personal best with a 1:58.606 (which would have been near the TTB record last year). Jeff Tan had a personal best, Amy had a personal best, and a total of four TT records were broken (TT3, TTB, TTE, and TTF) this year. It was beautiful weather all weekend, with high of 76°F on Saturday and a high of 68°F on Sunday, with some brisk 40 degree mornings. Olof and Brandon took off by 2:30 pm on Sunday and Amy and I were loaded up and on the road by 4 pm.



Big thanks to our guys from Vorshlag for coming out all weekend, as there's always something we need help with on our car or customers who need a hand. We had tons of people come by, look at the Mustang, ask for help, borrowing tools, etc. Within TT we have a good group that gets along well and help each other out, even within the same class; Jeff asked for a look at some tire rubbing issues and I gave him tire pressure advice, too. Great event put on by the folks of NASA Texas once again, with some W2W class carnage Saturday but clean racing on Sunday, and no contact in TT. It was a close call on Sunday with me and the TT1 car, but luckily I managed to keep from slamming into him, with inches to spare. I will definitely watch my gaps next year, and if I am in a similar car that has to get the fast laps in early but behind a "faster" car that takes 3-5 laps to get up to speed, I am going to really hang back in the warm up lap to build a big gap. We're not supposed to do that, but you know what, we're also not supposed to intentionally block or brake check drivers behind us, either. Anything I can do to avoid contact, I will do.


Left: Plaid Print Yuri blowing a kiss to the camera. Right: Jason running in TTB in his E46 M3

By the end of the day I just felt fortunate that I didn't wreck the Mustang into another car on two separate occasions, and just felt lucky to win the class and 2 Hoosier tires each day. In the end, with all of the new track layouts, mistakes, challenges and hurdles to jump this year we still somehow managed to attain our goal of setting track records at all 8 track configurations on the 2013 NASA Texas schedule, which was a big win for Vorshlag.

New NASA TT3 track records set in the Vorshlag Mustang in 2013:

• Motorsports Ranch Houston (2.38 CW), 1:41.544, Jan 19, 2013
• Motorsports Ranch Cresson (3.1 CCW), 2:22.753, March 17, 2013
• Texas World Speedway (2.9 CW), 1:51.530, April 21, 2013
• New Orleans Motorsports Park (2.75 CW North Course), 1:50.535, May 5, 2013
• Hallet Motor Racing Circuit (CCW), 1:24.365, June 23, 2013
• Hallet Motor Racing Circuit (CW), 1:26.786, June 23, 2013
• Texas World Speedway (2.9 CCW), 1:50.675, Sept 22, 2013
• Eagles Canyon Raceway (2.5 CCW), 1:52.250 Nov 2, 2013

All of those records will eventually be broken, and I feel that the Mustang in its current form (it got faster after every round up updates in 2013) could beat all of those lap times if we raced it in TT3 again next year. We took 13 of 14 possible TT3 wins in the NASA Texas series, with that one 2nd place loss at MSR-Cresson where I ran out of sessions, fuel, and talent. This left me with 1390 out of 1400 possible points in TT3 class, which was the highest of any driver in TT in our region, out of the 100+ unique TT drivers we had in Texas this year. With the 6 race drops we get, that made for a perfect 800 point season, with Amy placed 3rd in TT3 at 553 points, having missed several events. Nationals was a bit of a mess (3rd place out of 11) but I learned two valuable lessons: don't make massive aero changes before Nationals and bring new sticker tires for each day of competition at Nationals. Overall it was a great year for us in this car and I am looking forward to another healthy NASA Texas schedule next year, hopefully starting in the ST2 BMW and switching to the 2015 Mustang by April or May? I hope the 2015 Mustang is as solid, reliable and easy to drive as this 2011 GT was.

What's Next: Sell Both Mustangs

In our next installment I will talk about taking the TT3 Mustang to True Street to try to diagnose the part throttle issues, where they made a discovery about to the actual issue. This led us to replace some electronics at our shop, which seemed to fix the issue once and for all. I still want test this fix on track, but this coming weekend's ECR Toy Run event might get cancelled due to snow or ice. Low of 22, high of 33, high chance of snow... not the best track testing conditions. :/

Both this 2011 GT as well as our 2013 GT are still for sale, just awaiting the right buyers. In the spirit of Cyber Monday I am lowering the prices on both cars today, so if you were interested before please check the linked ads to see the new asking prices. I've got to move these two cars before the end of the year, so give me a call. I cannot afford to just give either car away, but things are about to get drastic if they stick around any longer. Please, don't make me de-mod the TT3 Mustang... but if the car is still here in a few weeks it will have to happen.



The crew pulled the front of the car apart one last time after the ECR race weekend and finished up some unfinished business, painting everything that was still bare metal and perfecting a few details, which will be covered in my next post. Late next week I'm off to Indy (BRRR!) to attend the 2014 PRI show, joined by 2 other Vorshlag team members, then we will come back and get back to work on several long term custom projects here at the shop. There are some other small changes and new Mustang parts I will show off in the next post, such as the motor mounts we put in after TWS and the throttle body replacement.

Cheers,

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Project Update for Dec 27, 2013: Been a busy busy month here at Vorshlag since I last posted, after the 2013 race season ended. There have been a lot of updates on a number of other project build threads, such as our shop parts hauler "Truck Norris", our E38 740iL restoration project, the Chumpcar Firebird build, and Matt's 95 M3 LS1 swap. We've also had a few things brewing with our two main in-house S197 projects - including several repairs, updates, and possibly even a major change of course for our 2011 GT - and it is time to share that here. Don't worry, its good news.


Many projects have kept us busy in the shop, as well as gobbled up my time updating project threads on several forums

2013 PRI Show + 2015 Mustang!

The annual December "ECR Toy Run" track day event we had hoped to attend was rescheduled due to a massive ice storm in Dallas. The new date ended up happening when we were at the 2013 PRI Show in Indianapolis. This is a huge racing industry trade show we attend almost every year, and where we had some important business meetings and saw lots of new parts. I was really bummed about missing the Toy Run, and missing some automotive TV show filming that happened out there that day, but I got a great consolation prize: getting to see the 2015 Mustang first hand!




This year PRI moved from Orlando to Indy, but even with the terrible downtown parking and horrendous Winter weather it was the biggest PRI show I had ever attended. We learned a lot being there, but not much was shared on social media for the folks outside of the racing industry that aren't allowed to attend. Balls to that, you can feel free to rummage around in my photo gallery and get an eye full of next year's parts.



To me, the highlight of this show was seeing the 2015 Mustang in person. I got to crawl under the back of the car and see the IRS up close as well gawk at as the exterior shape and body lines. I spent a bit of time and made an "S550 vs S197 Mustang: An in depth comparison" article, which you can read here. In this, the 2nd part of our preliminary S550 investigations, I compare the S550 and S197 Mustangs styling side-by-side, then go "up skirt" and look at the suspension on this pre-production car to verify the rumors and images we've been shown. If you are interested in that new fangled Mustang, give it a read.

Throttle Body Replacement + Front Splitter Updates

As I mentioned in my last update, we took the car to True Street and had them put the car on the dyno, load it up, and try to diagnose the part throttle stumble that bit me in the backside at the November ECR event. Turns out that they found something wonky in the throttle body circuit... the pedal would send a signal for a certain percentage of opening yet the throttle body would refuse to open by that amount. Some wiring bugaboo, but we first swapped in another stock throttle body - which has electronics inside, since it is a drive-by-wire setup.



Luckily that fixed it. I have driven the car 2 or 3 times since that was replaced and it runs like a top, from 1500 rpm roll-ons to 7000 rpm shifts.We didn't have to repair any wiring harness gremlins, which was a relief. The 3 year old Odyssey PC680 battery finally gave up the ghost, so we swapped in a new $125 replacement. This battery managed to never let us down on the street for years of daily driving, and it was long term storage that killed it (sitting for weeks between races without a battery tender). While the TB was being replaced the entire front end was then blown apart for inspection and updates.



This was another area I discussed last time: the front end and splitter refinements. Our custom splitter development has spanned several months (August - November) and we've learned a lot along the way, and noted some areas that could be improved. Extra fasteners added here or there, a better alignment on the captured mounting pins, and some better sealing on the radiator ducting.



Some of it was just normal track wear and tear. The black painted finish on the splitter took a lot of bug hits at ECR (grasshoppers are brutal at 125 mph!) so the splitter was removed and completely repainted during the above work. It all went back together better than before, and we kept the "short" splitter on the car (the 6" vs 10" extended length) for now.

Goofy Oil Catch Can + Crankcase Vacuum Routing

After the weekend of the NASA@TWS race in September, we noted a bit of oil residue under the car. It got worse by NASA@ECR in November, when we noticed a bit more oil leaking under the car and showing up on the floor of the trailer. It wasn't a lot, but was more than a little, you know? Looked like it was coming from the rear main seal of the engine, just dripping out of the transmission bell housing. That's not good. We kept cleaning it off and watching it all weekend, and it got progressively worse.



Dammit, why did this happen? I think it was my fault - having something to do with the improper routing we ran on the oil catch can/PCV system. See, we were trying to follow the routing of the Boss 302-S oil breather system, but that doesn't really have a sealed catch can like we run. Instead that car just has a crankcase breather system, with no real vacuum source, and uses a fresh air filter in the top of the catch can. With the crankcase breather routing we ran (since our August test at ECR, see above) we pulled a high amount vacuum from the intake manifold, through the catch can, and then back to the tops of both valve covers. With no fresh air inlet it was too much for the system to hold and it was collapsing the hoses. We chased the horrible honking noises, hoses that kept getting sucked flat, pulled the PCV valve out for a straight thru unit, and overall just ran too much vacuum on the crankcase. This likely pulled the rear main seal out of place during this time.



We have since switched this system to more conventional OEM type PCV routing, shown above, which is how the stock Coyote 5.0 positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system runs. The only difference is that we have added an oil catch can/filter in line with the hose on the passenger side head (the vacuum side).

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The driver's side valve cover pulls in fresh air from in front of the throttle body (which is atmospheric pressure, and not a vacuum source), to keep fresh air coming into the crankcase, which balanced the vacuum pulled on the passenger side valve cover at the opposite end of the system. Again, just like the factory routing, and all of the "hoses pulled flat" and honking noises have gone away. We had initially switched to a simple breather system during the ECR race weekend, but with 3 race weekends run in the weird "high crankcase vacuum" mode we think that is when the rear main seal was damaged. The old routing kept filling the catch can with oil.

You can see the extra hose bib that was added (TIG welded) to the gold foil wrapped aluminum intake tube in the two pictures above, when we switched the hoses to a more traditional PCV style routing. We even added the PCV valve back to the passenger side valve cover (note the blue color of the one-way check valve on the PCV coupler; the black coupler on the driver's side is just a straight thru connector). We will test this new routing at a track test day / possible TV shoot this coming weekend, but I'm confident this will work just like stock, because it is just like the stock routing now but with the catch can in place.

Basically we created a problem, listened to people tell us to keep doing it the wrong way, chased our tails, damaged the rear main seal, and then undid the mistake and went back to a logical PCV routing system. Sometimes you have to ignore advice and just do what makes sense, what works.

Repair Work to Rear Main + Clutch



So by now it was late November, many repairs and fixes had been done to help sell the car and put to bed every little nagging problem, except one: the leaking rear main seal. At this point and we still had every intention of selling the red TT3 Mustang, and I couldn't let anyone buy the car with a known oil leak. So I asked the guys in our shop to yank the transmission out for a look at the rear main seal. This meant we had to drop the after-header exhaust, the starter, the driveshaft, unhook the shifter, and then pull the transmission. Lots of fun. Kyle tackled this rear main seal + clutch replacement work in 6 hours and 23 minutes, according to our MyShopAssist logs (this service tracking system is used on all of our service work starting in mid 2013, even our own cars).



This was the first time we had to pull the transmission out of our 2011 GT, as the service to 3rd gear last April was done by the dealer under warranty. The drivetrain in this car has been rock solid and I didn't expect to see any damage to the clutch, pressure plate or flywheel, other than possible oil contamination.



Once the transmission was out, the clutch, PP and flywheel, as well as the reluctor for the crank trigger had to come out to access the rear main seal. The seal replacement is actually very easy once all that is out of the way. The new part wasn't expensive at all ($11) and I was hoping that's all we would need to do - burn some hours making access to the seal, then replace this one part. Looking at the clutch disc surface you would think this was a brand new car, as it had almost no noticeable wear. 18,000 miles and lots of autocross starts and thousands of shifts on track, and all of the friction and metal surfaces looked perfect on the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate. Amy and I are always easy on drivetrain parts, but there was some damage... something quite strange.



Above are pictures of the 3 dowel pins in the stock flywheel (in 6 pieces, just as they came out). When Kyle pulled the transmission he noted that all 6 bolts holding the PP to the flywheel were very loose. That's not good. And then when he pulled the PP off the 3 dowel pins fell out, as each had broken in half. WTF? I cannot say what happened here, except to note that this has all been apart before for some warranty work. The loose pressure plate to flywheel bolts must have allowed the pressure plate to wobble out the mounting holes, and that movement then broke the dowel pins. To me this meant the PP was not reusable, and I had questions about the flywheel. Could we have reused it all? Sure, and since we were selling the car so it would be no bother... but I don't play that way.



We weighed the OEM flywheel, of course, and at 22.3 pounds it was lighter than I originally thought it might be (but confirmed the numbers I was given by Fidanza). Would it be worthwhile to replace this with a 12-13 pound aluminum flywheel? Hmm.... not a lot of gain here, compared to some V8 cars we've dealt with that have 40-50 pound flywheels. Since I felt uncomfortable replacing just the pressure plate, and we could not find the part number or a source for the 5.0 Coyote's flywheel dowel pins, we went ahead and replaced all of it.

While this seems somewhat drastic, remember - this is a 6+ hour repair job, where the labor outweighs the replacement costs of the clutch/PP/flywheel parts. It is rare that you pull a transmission and not replace at least the clutch disc. After doing some research and running out of time (we had the car in pieces, stuck on one of our lifts) we went back with the exact stock replacement parts sourced from Ford. The clutch, pp and flywheel are the same OEM pieces as what came out, just brand new and secured properly this time. All told it was about $500 in parts, and while we could have saved a little money with aftermarket replacement bits I didn't want to risk changing something that worked so well on a car I was about to sell. Most aftermarket clutches would have more pedal effort, and at this power level (420-430 whp) we obviously didn't need it, as we had never felt clutch slippage and noticed almost no wear on the clutch parts.



Going back together was fairly easy, and everything lined up perfectly. As you can see we are still running the stock shifter (less notchy than most SSKs) but do have the Steeda rear poly bushing in the body side mount and the Whiteline trans bushing insert as well, and Amy and I both like the positive shift feel and low shift effort. New pressure plate mounting bolts were secured in place on the flywheel with red Loctite this time, which was obviously missing on the old bolts (they were clean and dry).



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Once the transmission & clutch parts were all back together I thought we were done with the rear main seal repairs. Not so much. Turns out a slight leak in the clutch hydraulic system developed that refused to cooperate. Bleeding and bleeding just resulted in a mess on the shop floor from a tiny leak that couldn't be found. So we replaced the stock plastic hydraulic line (shown below) with a commonly used stainless steel hard line (FMS-M-7512-A, $229, that technically is for the 2005-10 Mustang, but it can be tweaked slightly to fit the '11-14 6-spd), as we thought there might be a crack in the plastic line. That wasn't the issue and the pedal's hydraulic feel was still crap, with a tiny yet invisible leak. Don't waste your money on that metal clutch hard line unless : you have the system apart already, don't want the plastic line anymore, and don't mind tweaking the hard line to fit.

The leak was later finally chased down to a 90° plastic quick-connect elbow on one end of the hard line that had "sprung its spring". It dripped down the line and was in an inaccessible spot that was very hard to see. This meant we had to buy yet another clutch line to get the new elbow,the OEM plastic piece (which comes with this elbow). That fix turned this little leak repair into into another $300 worth of parts and another few hours of investigations and several clutch bleeding attempts - but that seems to finally be fixed as well. Lesson learned: always be suspect of plastic quick connects! Good grief, what I wouldn't give for a regular threaded fitting sometimes; we could have made a new line that actually fit this chassis better for about $40 in parts.



This whole crankcase vacuum / rear main seal snafu snowballed quite a bit, and is honestly a little embarrassing, but I have to chalk it up it was a learning experience. It never left is stranded and didn't "break" per se, and we caught the flywheel bolt damage while we were in fixing the rear main seal issues we caused. I took poor advice on the PCV system routing that I now know to be wrong, but in the end we finally got our system laid out correctly. The guys also found and fixed a broken exhaust mount while the exhaust was off, too (probably due to the off track excursion I had at Turn 6 at TWS), which made the lone rattle on the car disappear.

Please, if you have read this far, learn from our mistakes. Always question any advice on aftermarket mods, do your research, and plan for the worst when you get your car apart - don't plan on a 6 hour fix when it could turn into a multi-day parts chasing mess. What I thought would be a 1 day repair with $11 in parts ended up spanning two weeks and involving $800 worth of consumables - none of which made the car any faster, ugh. But now I can say that the car is at least fixed right and we avoided a potentially spectacular clutch system failure.

Somebody Buy Our Black 2013 Mustang GT...

So I've had potential buyers sniffing around both Mustangs, but the vast majority have been looking at the less costly and more stock-like black 2013 GT shown below. The black GT will sell soon, I can feel it. But the Red 2011 Mustang seems to have no takers. Why is that? Maybe the car looks too radical to be street driven - it isn't, but it has that perception. Yet it isn't radical enough to be a full "race car" for others. And of course the graphics are a bit over the top and the front flares are admittedly ugly. If we sell this car we won't have a replacement track car/race car ready for the next few months because we are too busy at the shop working on customer cars, which means we will miss the first few NASA Texas events for the season.



Instead of de-modding and dumbing down the 2011 GT we're now going to concentrate harder on selling the black 2013 Mustang GT instead. Again, that car is pristine, has 6K miles, and has been garaged every day of its life. I've almost had it sold so many times (and once again last night), came within $500 of closing the deal once, so its almost there. Here are the details:

Classified ad page: http://www.vorshlag.com/cars-2013gt.php
Price: $26.5K obo!
Odometer: 5,9XX miles
VIN: 1ZVBP8CF2D5247691
Engine: Coyote 5.0L DOHC Aluminum V8, 420 hp (dyno'd at 377 whp , 365 wtq)
Drivetrain: Getrag MT-82 6-speed manual, Rear Wheel Drive, 8.8" rear axle with Limited Slip and 3.55:1 rear gears
Colors: Black exterior, Black Cloth interior
Upgrades include:

• Ford Racing M-5300-P springs (lowers the car 1.5")
• Whiteline Adjustable Panhard Bar (re-centers the rear axle when lowered) and chassis brace
• Whiteline LCA relocation brackets (fixes rear suspension geometry when lowered)
• Eibach larger diameter front swaybar (part of this kit)
• 14" Brembo 4 piston front brakes (what comes on the Boss302 and Track pack cars) with Centric premium rotors
• Vorshlag S197 stainless brake line kit
• Prototype brake cooling package made by Vorshlag for the 2013-14 Mustang GT (hidden front ducts behind the grill, 3" hoses to a pair of Vorshlag S197 Brembo backing plate ducting)
• Engine is bone stock, as is the interior and exterior

Optional upgrades to the black 2013 GT

Of course if you want to customize this Mustang we have lots and lots of parts we can put onto this car, both new and used. We will sweeten the deal and discount the parts and labor on a number of parts, to help sell this car. Here are a couple of things we could add to incentivize the right buyer, with the discounted costs shown:

• AST coilovers + springs + camber plates for +$1800. We have a set of used set of 4100s that have the Grand Am DDP pistons, were custom valved, and were used on our red 2011 GT for a year and a half before we went to Motons. These became the prototypes for the 4150. This set-up new would cost $2839 + the custom revalving.
• Wider wheels and tires (shown above): The 2013 GT already has the upgraded factory 19x9" wheels and 255 Pirellis that come on the Track Pack/Brembo cars. For +$1000 we would upgrade to the 18x10" D-Force LTW5 wheels and 295/35/18 Nitto NT-05 tires (used). This set-up new would cost ($1236 for 4 wheels + $248/ea for tires) $2240.

Again, get it touch with us if you are thinking about buying a 2012-14 Mustang, as we can make this one customized for YOU, many banks will still give new car financing on a car this new, and the 5 year/60K warranty has a majority of its life left.

2011 Mustang Development - Not Quite Dead Yet...?

My point is, if we could just sell this 2013 GT we would likely keep the red 2011 GT and continue to develop it and race it in the 2014 season. Why not - nobody wants to buy it! I've talked with Amy and she doesn't really want to sell the red Mustang, and for once would rather keep one of our long term project cars. After we buy the 2015 Mustang and had it race ready, in the future, she would love to make the red 2011 GT a street car/daily driver again. I also think that this S197 still has a lot of untapped performance potential in TT3, as we never got around to trying a few things I wanted to test or develop further.


We have yet to find the limit of "bigger is better" when it comes to tires on the heavy S197

What things? Wider tires than the 315mm Hoosiers we ran in all of 2013 season. Because it is very heavy, makes a decent amount of power, and in testing it has gotten faster after every single tire width upgrade we've done since 2010.

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We started on 255mm tires and quickly moved to 265mm, 275mm and finally 295mm wide street tires. And when it came to R-compounds we tried 275, 285, 295, 305, and 315mm widths ranging from Kumho to Hoosier.



We tested briefly in 2012 with the 345/35/18 rear Hoosier A6, and it had ferocious forward bite on these nearly 14" wide tires (13.9" section width/13.2" tread. The 315/30/18 is only 11.8" of tread/12.5" of section width, fully 1.4" narrower), but they rubbed the inside body structure and fenders badly under cornering (before the Watts Link). The rubbing caused other handling issues, and a huge smoke screen, so we shelved that size for a while. When we cut and flared the front fenders (to clear the new 18x12" wheels) I had every intention of doing the same to the rear fenders, then upgrading the front to 335mm and the rear to the 345mm tire again. I met with considerable resistance from Amy about "cutting on her car", but I'm wearing her down.


The 345mm rear Hoosier was wider than the stock rear fenders could accommodate and made lots of tire smoke from rubbing

As we noted many times in our Time Trial events this past year (with 15 separate NASA events in 2013) my fastest laps were almost always my first or second lap, barring traffic problems. On one or two rare occasions I ended up making my best lap on hot lap 3, but that was always due to a driving mistake or traffic on previous laps. The Hoosier A6 is a temperamental tire and works best in ambient temps from 50-60°F, and more often than not the lap times fell off a full second per lap after the first. We were also only getting 20-30 hot laps per set of tires before they are GONE.


Tires that only work for 1 or 2 laps, coupled with slower cars in front = TT traffic frustration!

My theory is that with another 20mm up front and another 30mm on the rear that our "golden lap zone" of ideal conditions could be expanded from 1 or 2 hot laps to maybe 3-4 hot laps. That is a big improvement for Time Trial that could have allowed for faster lap records at a few events in 2013 where I had serious traffic issues in the first couple of laps (more times than I can count). Not to mention a potential increase in mechanical grip from the additional two or three inches of tire on the ground at each axle. And possibly an increase in total tire life? That +20/+30mm change is not a small increase in tire width.



Another area we dabbled with late in the 2013 season was adding downforce, which I think still has more room for improvement on this car. While Vorshlag is first and foremost a suspension shop we have been seeing more and more aero development creep into club level road racing and time attack/time trial competition, and we were finding lap time improvements using aero changes very late into the season. The 10" long front splitter we added right before Miller, that many told us was "too long to be effective", coupled with our front grill block-off and ducted hood made more front downforce than the APR GTC-300 rear wing could match. That meant that at high speeds the car had an aero imbalance, and it was prone to oversteer. I cannot emphasize enough how loose this car was at Miller with that long front splitter, and we ran out of AoA on the rear wing to stabilize the car in high speed corners. Nothing like going 150+ sideways, wee!



To "fix" this we lopped 4 inches off the front of the 10" long splitter (well, actually a spare we had), right after returning from Nationals. Magically the car was balanced once again at the 150+ mph corner entry speeds we saw at TWS in late September, and was faster than ever at ECR in November. But it always nagged me... if we only had more rear downforce wouldn't that bigger front splitter be better overall? With some of the latest rear wings on the market having 14" and even 16" long chords and 70"+ widths, there could be a more efficient and more effective wing to test on this car, then we could bring the Big Splitter back (we kept it, just in case).



As I mentioned in my previous posts we would have liked to get into S550 chassis development as soon as possible, and run the 2014 season in NASA TT2 class with the new Mustang (a bump up on power and/or down in weight from TT3, going from 9.5:1 to 8:1 pounds per hp) but my hopes of acquiring one of these in the early spring of 2014 and prepping it to race for most of that year seem to be dashed. At best we might see a car in early August. So recently we began our ST2/TT2 build on an E36 BMW LS1 car, then our paying customer shop work picked up so much (we're building a number of race cars and LS1 swaps for people right now) that this project was delayed. Meaning, if we mothball the 2011 GT we won't have a car to race at all for many months, which pains me. That's half the reason I quit the secure engineering jobs I had in the past - to start a business, create products tailor made to racers, and then using our racing as "testing"!


We have a lot of work left on our ST2 BMW LS1 project before it is ready to race

Long story short, we're going to take our red 2011 Mustang and keep racing and developing with it as long as we need to, until the ST2 car is completed or until the S550 is here and prepped. This might mean an entire extra year competing in the red 2011 GT, known jokingly around the shop as the "pretty pony". And that's one thing I aim to do - make it look less ugly, with a new rear wing, proper metal flares blended into the bodywork, and a more low key graphics theme - say good bye to white strips visible from space!


This is the worst looking pair of flares on any car I've ever owned, and that's saying a lot

Those prototype plastic front fender flares we made look OK at 100 mph, but up close, they ugly. Sure, these were aerodynamically efficient but we have plans to make proper METAL flares welded to the front and rear fenders to cover the much wider Hoosier tires. Amy is still complaining about cutting the rear fenders on "her car" to clear the bigger meats, but I've got the Mustang at the shop all day, there's a fresh blade on the SawsAll, and possession is nine tenths of the saw.... I mean the "law".

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We've got a few ideas in mind to keep pushing the performance of this 2011 Mustang on track. We know some of our TT3 records are soft, so it might be nice to bump them up a bit. And we're running some all new track configurations this year so we could try to nail down some more. But then again, TT2 is faster, and would be challenging to try to compete there in Texas and at NASA East Nationals. We beat some of the TT2 records last year in TT3, and with less weight or more power (or just more development on the TT3 set-up) we could feasibly reset some of those and nail down some wins. And if we went ahead and bumped the red 2011 to TT2 it would be an easy transition to bring the BMW LS1 ST2 car up to speed, accumulating points in the same class all year. Which way to go then?

Where To Race - TT2 or TT3?

Before we start this bench racing section I have to post the new NASA Super Touring rules, revised for 2014. This is the basis for the TT classing and rules, and there are some changes that affect TT2 and TT3.

New 2014 rules: http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/Super-Touring.pdf

Lots of little changes in the new ST rules, and they look good. I like that the 4 door exemption is being cut in half, as this factor never really hurt most of cars that could come in both 2 or 4 door models.


The E36 BMW 2 door and 4 door chassis weigh almost exactly the same, but the 4 door used to have a +0.4 modifier bonus but now is only +0.2



The new 2014 revised Competition Weight modifier chart for ST, above, is easier to wade through and penalizes the super light cars more (sub 1800 pounds = -2.0 penalty!). I like this since the sub-1800 pound cars with driver aren't really "cars" per se, not by any modern definition. Just for grins here is the old, more complicated Competition Weight modifier chart from the TT rule set, below.



For 2013 the TT3 class was the most popular TT class in the NASA Texas at almost all of the 14 race regional competitions we had last year (and at NASA Nationals). And Vorshlag had a decent set-up there, winning 13 of the 14 regional TT3 races in this car, mostly with the pre-August '13 aero changes and narrower front wheels. We could feasibly develop the car further and do better in TT3 again, but for grins let's see what it would take to make the jump to TT2. At first glance it would seem like the jump would be easy, as it is "only a 1 point weight to power ratio change", going from 9:1 to 8:1. Just lose a few pounds here and there and race it, right? In reality it is much more complicated than that.



First let's back up and analyze our current TT3 setup with respect to power, race weight, and ratio modifiers:

2013 TT3 race weight was 3770 pounds with driver. I'm about 210 with my gear on and we've been using 3/4 tank of fuel to ballast up that weight (and to avoid fuel starvation - I usually go out in each session with a nearly full or totally full tank). Latest DynoJet chassis dyno pull was a best of 419 whp, after we added the new air snorkel, but it made 430 whp in the past (more on that "missing power" in a second). Here's the 2013 and 2014 TT3 ratio calculations:

TT3 Unadjusted Wt/Power Ratio = 9.0
Non-OEM aero = +0.4 (*penalty) - note this changed from -0.5 in 2013
Running 3700-3799 pounds = -0.5 (*bonus) note: we used a +0.6 bonus for 2013
Adjusted Wt/Power ratio = 8.9 (the adjusted limit at this weight was also 8.9 in 2013)

3770 pounds / 419 whp = 8.99 currently

So if you noticed we were a little over the 8.9 ratio needed at this race weight, almost by 0.1, which is a good bit. This means we could really have run as low as ~3730 pounds at this power level, or run a few hp more on the dyno at 3770, and not get dinged. That is just part of the cushion we like to run, just to stay squeaky clean and legal. As much as others have pushed me to I won't cheat, and I show these ratios and calculations publicly and have our TT classing paperwork at every event for anyone to look at. In 2 years, 20+ TT events, and probably 40 weighings on this car we've missed weight twice, both times by 5 to 7 pounds, and we fixed it shortly after (and ran faster at the proper weight in later sessions).



But how can we get this car down to an "8.0 ratio", to be competitive in TT2? We think there is a bit of power to be had in the exhaust, as this setup used to make 430 whp and did for quite some time. The catalysts we are running are a few years old, and one of them is smashed a little and might have a busted catalyst matrix, causing some flow restriction. Removing the cats and making a shorter/lighter race exhaust might uncork that 10-12 whp and get the power back to where it was before (from 419 to 430). But other than that there is no more "easy power" to be had. Everything we could do to add 20-30 more hp would cost thousands of dollars (build a race motor) and virtually every bolt-on mod that might be done would just move the rev range up and likely lose as much or more power below 5500 rpms. So let's stick with 430 whp, for the most simplicity, reliability and lowest costs.

3770 pounds / 430 whp = 8.76



Hmm, we're still way off the mark at that power level. What about losing a bit of weight? We think that ditching the over-the-axle exhaust section and the pair of relatively heavy Flowmaster mufflers in favor of a lightweight "dumped" system like we built on the custom Boss 302-S exhaust we built (see above) could shed as much as 40 pounds off of the current system (see below). We dropped more than that on the 302-S exhaust. We could also replace the bloody slip-fit joints from the headers to the exhaust (which always leak just a little and we have to tack weld in place) in favor of proper 3" stainless V-band flanges.



Then there is the rear seat, which when removed would drop another 35 pounds, with hardware. So with exhaust changes and rear seat removed that is the "easy" 75 pounds to lose. All could be quickly undone and involve almost no cost (well the exhaust would take two mufflers, some mandrel bends and about 7-8 hours to fabricate and weld, but who's counting!).

3695 pounds / 430 lbs = 8.59

If we do something about the fuel starvation issues, maybe with a new fuel tank sump or surge tank, that could mean we wouldn't have to run nearly a full tank. We run almost full now, which is 16 gallons, and at 6 pounds per gallon for gasoline that's 96 pounds. Running only a 20-25 pound fuel load, with a proper fuel tank pick-up, surge tank or even a small fuel cell, might help us drop up to 70 pounds of fuel weight...

3625 pounds / 430 whp = 8.40

We're making some progress but we need a lot more. Let's look at some interior bits that could be removed to drop more pounds. That carpet likely has some hefty insulation under it. It needs to come out and be weighed. And the air conditioning compressor, accumulator and condenser core are not only heavy but the condenser core is blocking air to the radiator. Is there another 90-100 pounds in weight savings here, not even touching the under-dash bits? Could be.

3525 pounds / 430 whp = 8.18

So with a little bench racing we're getting closer to the 8 pounds per hp goal, but don't forget about the TT modifiers. Since we are moving to TT2 there's no more +0.4 penalty for "non-stock aero" (formerly 0.5), yet there's still a bonus for running a race weight heavier than 2999 pounds... scroll up to the Competition Weight adjustment chart for that modifier (now a -0.5 bonus, which used to -0.6).

continued below

[Fair]

continued from above - last one!



Looks like if we got down to 3500-3600 pounds there is still a -0.3 bonus, which means we could add even more power and still be TT2 legal, yikes. You kind of have to back into this weight penalty/bonus deal by first choosing a race weight, looking at the Competition Weight table of modifiers and then figure out your final ratio that way. It takes a couple of iterations but isn't hard to do. With a guess at 3525 pound minimum weight (where we think we could get without cutting up the car) that is a -0.3 modifier bonus, which is helpful.

3520 pounds / 457 hp = (8.0 - 0.3) 7.7 ratio (legal ratio at this race weight for TT2)

Yikes, that's a big jump... so we would be going from TT3 with an adjusted 8.9 ratio to TT2 with a 7.7 ratio. Even after dropping another 250 pounds we would still be 27 whp shy of the limit for the class. Another way to look at it is that at 3520 pounds the car would be 207 pounds overweight for 430 whp. Yikes... that's a lot of power to find (read: pay for) or a lot more weight to lose (450 pounds lower than we are now, which is impossible without radical chassis surgery and/or without exotic materials). So maybe a 100% competitive TT2 build is not in the cards for this 2011 GT... and I'm OK with that. What about a "semi-competitive" TT2 car?



Say we get that "easy" 200-250 pounds out of the car, add the bigger rear wing, flare the sheet metal properly and run the wider 335/345 tires, then ballast back up to TT3 weights -or- run sans ballast and just jump into TT2 with a +200 pound heavy car? Again, we did pretty well last year in TT3 and even beat TT2 lap records a few times at 3770 pounds. With more tire, more aero and less weight we might still be able to sneak in a few TT2 wins until the dedicated ST2/TT2 car(s) are built? Who knows. It gives us some extra performance and classing flexibility with minimal spending.

Again, there is no easy way to add another 30 whp, as the only "easy" bolt-ons left are bigger cams and a different intake manifold design (bigger cross section, shorter runners). Yet we know that these mods will likely lose power below 5000 rpms over what we have now. The popular Boss302 intake is a known "power shifter", adding a few points of peak power up top but killing as much or more power below 5500 rpm, so that's a dead end. The other ways to add power to an engine are to improve the Volumetric Efficiency, add compression or displacement, or add boost - none of which are easy or cheap to do. I like having a bone stock engine from throttle body to exhaust port, as it keeps the factory 5 year / 60K powertrain warranty intact, hehe.



So while I will consult some folks smarter than me and see where we can lose more weight (without cutting away big parts of the car) or gain more power (without getting into the motor), we will likely just try to improve the TT3 performance, drop as much weight as we can easily undo, and ballast up closer to the class limit... and remove the ballast and run TT2 as-is, when it makes sense. We will also make a separate ballast package for whenever Amy drives, as we are running as "Team Vorshlag" in 2014, and she and I will split driving duties. At least this way we can run the same transponder and won't screw that up, heh. Just need to make a very visible, quick to install chunk of driver ballast to make up the differences in our weights.

MCS / S197 Shock Test Video


In-car video from Nov 3rd track test with MCS TT1 coilovers on 2012 Mustang GT at ECR

Shannon just uploaded the 720P high def version of the Tom's Lap Timer video that I talked about in my last forum update. In the video above you can now see how the MCS non-remote singles work on this somewhat bumpy track. Driving this car was effortless (exception: hanging on in stock seat was difficult!) at 9/10ths, and we put in several hot laps with some traffic in an HPDE4 session. I didn't make any crazy passes and we got held up on every lap, yet we still managed to put in that 2:07 lap there.



The 255mm street tires (Nitto Invo) were worn smooth out, but car owner Jan has since ordered 18x11" Forgestar F14s from us (that just arrived) and we will be installing some fat 295/35/18 BFGoodrich Rivals onto those next week. This Mustang is nearly bone stock, with a 100% stock powertrain, some Carbotech XP16 brake pads, and the MCS shocks and Vorshlag camber plates. Real monotube adjustable dampers absolutely transform these cars on track, yet with the valving turned down this daily driven Mustang rides beautifully (550F/250R rates). I think with the 11" wide wheels and 295 Rivals this car could dip into the 2:03-2:04 zone, which is just FLYING for street tires. In comparison, a truly bone stock 2012 GT runs about a 2:12 lap at ECR, from what we have seen and timed (we tested our 2013 GT on 18x10" wheels and 295mm Nittos for our "baseline" numbers).

USCA Event at TMS is On!

There was an event we were in danger of missing in the early part of 2014 if we didn't have a street car to race - the Ultimate Street Car Association's TMS event March 21-23, 2014. This is the new series created by Jimi Day/FM3 Marketing to serve as the qualifiers for the big Optima Challenge shootout after SEMA, and we want to be there in this Mustang, which is a real street car. We hope to be on proper 335mm Rivals this time, too. Keeping the 2011 around will allow us to make that event in our own back yard, which is exciting. Road course, autocross, speed stop and some car show portion.


Time for some fat street tires and a run at the USCA event in March!

NASA @ MSR-Houston Jan 19-20, 2014

First NASA event of 2014 is right around the corner, as we race 12 months out of the year here in Texas. The MSR-H event is being run this year in the CCW format, opposite of 2013, so any TT3 winning time will be a track record, and possibly TT2 as well. So Amy and I will enter as "Team Vorshlag" and run whichever class has more cars, and if we can get to 5 in a given class maybe somebody will win some tires. The attendance looks pretty light right now, but that is typical for this January event - which could have really cold or windy weather, rain or fog (the fog last year delayed the start of the event) - but being Houston that could change at any minute and turn into a warm sunny day. Most people wait until the last possible minute to enter this event, which drives the NASA folks nuts!




With this renewed focus on the red 2011 Mustang and a split of TT3 & TT2 goals for 2014, we have a lot of prep work to do in the next few weeks to make MSR-Houston, unless we just take the car "as-is". I don't want to do that, of course! We almost never run the same set-up twice in a row - continuous development makes for continuous improvement. The initial changes we have planned (exhaust, flares, tires, weight) are still much less work than is needed to finish the ST2 BMW, which needs 200+ hours of work to be a running, driving car + time for testing and sorting the new set-up. We will continue to work on that ST2 BMW as time permits but for now we'll concentrate on 2011 Mustang development until the 2015 Mustang gets here.



We are doing a tire test tomorrow at ECR in the Mustang (320mm Continental slicks vs 315mm Hoosier A6) so I will report back on that soon.

MUCH more soon!

[El_Tortuga]

If the NASA formula is all about lb/peak hp, why not do a custom tune to pull a little power back just at the peak rpm? I.e build a flatter power curve that would allow you to run a lower weight car and still have all the ponies in all the other rpms.

[El_Tortuga]

Originally Posted by El_Tortuga If the NASA formula is all about lb/peak hp, why not do a custom tune to pull a little power back just at the peak rpm? I.e build a flatter power curve that would allow you to run a lower weight car and still have all the ponies in all the other rpms.

Not just pulling timing, but Coyote motor could play with cam timing too

[modernbeat]

Originally Posted by El_Tortuga If the NASA formula is all about lb/peak hp, why not do a custom tune to pull a little power back just at the peak rpm? I.e build a flatter power curve that would allow you to run a lower weight car and still have all the ponies in all the other rpms.

We've considered it. And we did something like that when we autocrossed the car in an attempt to reduce rear wheelspin. But, if you look at our current dyno charts you will see the power is not very peaky and we use everything we have. NASA also has a corollary that prevents diesel style power curves with huge amounts of torque and low horsepower.

[csamsh]

Originally Posted by modernbeat We've considered it. And we did something like that when we autocrossed the car in an attempt to reduce rear wheelspin. But, if you look at our current dyno charts you will see the power is not very peaky and we use everything we have. NASA also has a corollary that prevents diesel style power curves with huge amounts of torque and low horsepower.

Do the Evo's know this? Ha.

[modernbeat]

Originally Posted by csamsh Do the Evo's know this? Ha.

Yes, and they work it as much as they can. That's one of the reasons they are sort of funky on track. I suspect they could have much more upper end power with much less effort if they wanted it. And I suspect they could be much faster if they would pony up for a real motorsports gearbox, but that's a $10k+ bill just to start.

[2013MustangGT]

@ Jason

Where can I find the rules for tuning for TT. I look and didn't find anything. However, for AI there is a 9.0:1 ratio for Tq.

Thanks,

Jamie

[modernbeat]

Here are the Time Trial rules.

http://www.nasa-tt.com/rules

The TT3/TT2/TT1 rules are supposed to be similar enough to the Super Touring (W2W racing) rules that they cross over. Both Terry and I think they are easier to understand the formula and restrictions. Take a look at the ST rules below, look down the list for Super Touring.

http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules

[2013MustangGT]

Thanks Jason. However, I can only find HP/weight ratios for both ST and TT nothing about Tq/weight ratios like they have in AI.