Obviously. I'm speaking for stick cars. Didn't exactly mean 5.0s.
Depending on the power level. IIRC, wbt broke the rear end in one of his cars doing a hard launch in an auto at the track, on slicks. You need to beef the hell out of everything in the driveline to do slicks on an auto in order to do a full hard hit at higher power levels.
These cars work best with slicks at the track, especially at his power level. DRs won't do enough for him.
Originally Posted by DirtyD
See above.
Every here has said he needs slicks to get full potential at the track because the DRs aren't working.
The DR's aren't working because of the tires. It's user error and not getting the suspension dialed in properly yet.
There is a whole class of cars (275 class) that manage to put well over 1100hp to the tires on a 275 radial dipping into the high 4 second 1/8th mile times.
Slicks are NOT needed to go fast. I've said it a million times, it's about a proper set up.
The DR's aren't working because of the tires. It's user error and not getting the suspension dialed in properly yet.
There is a whole class of cars (275 class) that manage to put well over 1100hp to the tires on a 275 radial dipping into the high 4 second 1/8th mile times.
Slicks are NOT needed to go fast. I've said it a million times, it's about a proper set up.
Those guys in the 275 class are driving manuals at that power level? I can probably cut 1.7-1.9 with better shocks and struts with DR but with slicks I can cut 1.3-1.5 which is a big difference.
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Originally Posted by SlowGreyGT
I agree. A stick car shocks the tires MUCH harder and does it several times going down the track. With a big power stick car, the car is much more unsettled going down the track making it more of a challenge to ET well. A well running auto car is nothing more than just point and shoot. Which is great for a track car taking a lot of driver error out of the equation.
And before you say it, to say it's "these" cars is nonsense. Beefcake runs the 275 class, on E85 making over 1000rw and runs great numbers.
Beefcake is auto.
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Originally Posted by SlowGreyGT
I agree. A stick car shocks the tires MUCH harder and does it several times going down the track. With a big power stick car, the car is much more unsettled going down the track making it more of a challenge to ET well. A well running auto car is nothing more than just point and shoot. Which is great for a track car taking a lot of driver error out of the equation.
The DR's aren't working because of the tires. It's user error and not getting the suspension dialed in properly yet.
There is a whole class of cars (275 class) that manage to put well over 1100hp to the tires on a 275 radial dipping into the high 4 second 1/8th mile times.
Slicks are NOT needed to go fast. I've said it a million times, it's about a proper set up.
You act like I don't know this, and I've never heard of the 275 class. Lord. Unless you have the resources and want to install a fully track capable suspension on the car, slicks are the easier route to go. Jeff wants his car to be both street and strip, street majority. Using slicks at the track would eliminate a lot of the suspension hassle from the equation to give him a quick, effective solution to hooking at the track. His car is not a purpose built race car that he wants to run 8s in every weekend. Therefore doing a full suspension for him outside of shocks/struts and springs would be a waste of money on his end.
There are many routes you can go for a "proper" setup.
And before you say it, to say it's "these" cars is nonsense. Beefcake runs the 275 class, on E85 making over 1000rw and runs great numbers.
God, Steve, can you fucking read? I said I was speaking for stick cars, not 5.0s. I didn't choose the right word, but now you have gone into kill mode, so there is no hope for me.
Beefcake runs an auto.
All of those 275 guys run glides, which are basically autos. You know exactly why too.
Doesn't mean it can't be done. It's certainly easier to go with an auto, but it doesn't mean it can't be done rowing gears either. It's just harder to do needing a serious driving mod and stout driveline parts. Most people going that fast tend to go auto because it's so much easier to do. Point and shoot, takes the driver practically out of the equation. Junkie rows gears with a 6 speed well into the 8's. If he put an auto in it it would go EASY 7's.
All you need is some serious seat time and practice.
Also, to add, no where is any of my statements did I say that DRs won't work. I simply said they won't do enough for him. Obviously he needs to upgrade many things in order to make DRs work to his advantage, where as slicks take a lot out of the equation.
You act like I don't know this, and I've never heard of the 275 class. Lord. Unless you have the resources and want to install a fully track capable suspension on the car, slicks are the easier route to go. Jeff wants his car to be both street and strip, street majority. Using slicks at the track would eliminate a lot of the suspension hassle from the equation to give him a quick, effective solution to hooking at the track. His car is not a purpose built race car that he wants to run 8s in every weekend. Therefore doing a full suspension for him outside of shocks/struts and springs would be a waste of money on his end.
There are many routes you can go for a "proper" setup.
Originally Posted by DirtyD
God, Steve, can you fucking read? I said I was speaking for stick cars, not 5.0s. I didn't choose the right word, but now you have gone into kill mode, so there is no hope for me.
Beefcake runs an auto.
All of those 275 guys run glides, which are basically autos. You know exactly why too.
Seriously, relax. You get wound up way too easy. You're wrong, doesn't mean you're an idiot. You're just inexperienced is all.
And before you say it, to say it's "these" cars is nonsense. Beefcake runs the 275 class, on E85 making over 1000rw and runs great numbers.
BIG difference in auto vs manual with a radial boss.
Originally Posted by BLK2012GT
Those guys in the 275 class are driving manuals at that power level? I can probably cut 1.7-1.9 with better shocks and struts with DR but with slicks I can cut 1.3-1.5 which is a big difference.
I went a 1.6x on 18" radials with a manual last weekend, I fully expect to learn the clutch/tire combo and go a low 1.5x once ironed out. It can be done on radials with a stick, its just MUCH easier and safer for driveline parts with a slick. The wrinkle wall helps absorb a bunch of shock, it hits there instead of the driveline parts.
with that being said, if you can work a clutch well. You should be fine.
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My daily is faster then your race car
Seriously, relax. You get wound up way too easy. You're wrong, doesn't mean you're an idiot. You're just inexperienced is all.
So I can't explain my reasoning for making the statement I made? I'm not wrong. I simply have a different opinion than you, so you think I'm wrong. DRs and slicks both work. But one is easier and more cost effective than the other to produce the goals that Jeff has for the car.
Still doesn't excuse your blatant miss of not reading the post before you posted, where I corrected my statement after a poor choice of wording.
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