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08-07-2013, 07:12 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 5,594
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Originally Posted by 03MachMe
Hmm that's all I want is the look plus don't have to re program any of the gauges
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I want the 6 gauge readout, then Boss gauge overlay. Lol
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08-08-2013, 01:14 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Wylie
Age: 36
Posts: 2,266
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Originally Posted by DirtyD
I want the 6 gauge readout, then Boss gauge overlay. Lol
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Should have just got a premium lol
__________________
2013 Deep Impact Blue GT Premium
386rwhp/383rwtq
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08-08-2013, 08:13 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Irving / Oklahoma City
Age: 41
Posts: 1,896
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Originally Posted by DirtyD
I want to swap in a 2011-2012 Premium cluster in my car. Time to scan some junk yards
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Why? The oil pressure, water temp and voltmeter are there just for looks. They don't EVER move during operation.
Originally Posted by 03MachMe
Hmm that's all I want is the look plus don't have to re program any of the gauges
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Pretty sure the speedo would need to be programmed because the mph spacing would be different. Where it reads 80mph on our cars it would read 100mph on those speedos I believe.
A fellow Mustang guy at work says that since the entire cluster may be one piece it may be kind of difficult to swap the mileage.
-Alex
__________________
2012 GT Premium Hardtop with XX Transmission
Mods page: http://dfw50s.com/showthread.php?t=3376
Ford Racing . Pypes . BMR . CDC . American Muscle . DDM Tuning . BFG . J&M . Amsoil . MMD. JLT
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08-08-2013, 08:29 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Wylie
Age: 36
Posts: 2,266
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Originally Posted by Dominic Toretto
Why? The oil pressure, water temp and voltmeter are there just for looks. They don't EVER move during operation.
Pretty sure the speedo would need to be programmed because the mph spacing would be different. Where it reads 80mph on our cars it would read 100mph on those speedos I believe.
A fellow Mustang guy at work says that since the entire cluster may be one piece it may be kind of difficult to swap the mileage.
-Alex
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Not those custom ones they are only 160mph just like the stock gt but boss style
__________________
2013 Deep Impact Blue GT Premium
386rwhp/383rwtq
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08-08-2013, 08:38 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Irving / Oklahoma City
Age: 41
Posts: 1,896
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Originally Posted by 03MachMe
Not those custom ones they are only 160mph just like the stock gt but boss style
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Oh okay, gotcha.
-Alex
__________________
2012 GT Premium Hardtop with XX Transmission
Mods page: http://dfw50s.com/showthread.php?t=3376
Ford Racing . Pypes . BMR . CDC . American Muscle . DDM Tuning . BFG . J&M . Amsoil . MMD. JLT
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08-08-2013, 08:58 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 5,594
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Originally Posted by Dominic Toretto
Why? The oil pressure, water temp and voltmeter are there just for looks. They don't EVER move during operation.
-Alex
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Because right now I have 2 readouts on my car, fuel and water temp. That's it. I'd like to at least have a watchful eye on the other 2, plus it doesn't give me a big empty space in the center of the gauge cluster.
What mine looks like (but a 160 speedo) -
What I want -
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08-08-2013, 02:54 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Keller, TX
Posts: 613
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Originally Posted by DirtyD
Because right now I have 2 readouts on my car, fuel and water temp. That's it. I'd like to at least have a watchful eye on the other 2, plus it doesn't give me a big empty space in the center of the gauge cluster.
What mine looks like (but a 160 speedo) -
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Why not an aero force gauge and a roush vent pod.
Like so
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08-08-2013, 03:00 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Age: 34
Posts: 1,047
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Originally Posted by DirtyD
Because right now I have 2 readouts on my car, fuel and water temp. That's it. I'd like to at least have a watchful eye on the other 2, plus it doesn't give me a big empty space in the center of the gauge cluster.
What mine looks like (but a 160 speedo) -
What I want -
![](http://images.thecarconnection.com/lrg/2011-ford-mustang-2-door-convertible-premium-instrument-cluster_100318273_l.jpg)
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I hate the base gauges, the six dial is so much better looking.
Originally Posted by Courtesy Flush
Why not an aero force gauge and a roush vent pod.
Like so
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That looks really good. I want the dual aeroforces, but I'll still have that empty space where the other two oem gauges would be.
__________________
The Queen:
2013 Race Red Mustang GT 6MT: 20" AMR's, GT500 AB, JBA LT's and ORX, SCT SF3/X3, MGW Short Throw, Some Carbon Wrap, Spoiler Delete, Eibach Sportlines, Koni STR.T's, BMR LCA's, BMR Relo Brackets, BMR UCA, Freedom Racing PHB, Maximum Motorsports CC Plates, BMR Safety loop, DSS Aluminum DS
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08-08-2013, 03:58 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 5,594
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Originally Posted by Courtesy Flush
Why not an aero force gauge and a roush vent pod.
Like so
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Because I still then have that empty space in the gauge cluster. Haha
The aero force will come around when I go boost.
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08-08-2013, 01:46 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Tejas
Posts: 356
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Originally Posted by Dominic Toretto
Why? The oil pressure, water temp and voltmeter are there just for looks. They don't EVER move during operation.
...
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What???
I'm wanting to add oil pressure (good measure of lower end health and/or indicator of oiling issues), voltage (battery/charging system health), and oil temp (mostly just because - would only expect any question on extended high power runs like track days). I'm thinking the Laguna Seca Pod would be better choice than A-pillar mounts. I like analog, so not wanting the digital multigage route.
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08-08-2013, 02:46 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Irving / Oklahoma City
Age: 41
Posts: 1,896
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Originally Posted by El_Tortuga
What???
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The factory GT gauges are just there for show. The only gauges that are functional are the tach, speedo and fuel level.
-Alex
__________________
2012 GT Premium Hardtop with XX Transmission
Mods page: http://dfw50s.com/showthread.php?t=3376
Ford Racing . Pypes . BMR . CDC . American Muscle . DDM Tuning . BFG . J&M . Amsoil . MMD. JLT
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08-09-2013, 10:33 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Tejas
Posts: 356
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Originally Posted by Dominic Toretto
The factory GT gauges are just there for show. The only gauges that are functional are the tach, speedo and fuel level.
-Alex
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LOL
Find it hard to believe that water temp is nonfunctional.
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08-10-2013, 08:46 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Irving / Oklahoma City
Age: 41
Posts: 1,896
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Originally Posted by El_Tortuga
LOL
Find it hard to believe that water temp is nonfunctional.
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Tell me how functional it is, when you can't tell if you are overheating. The water temp reaches the "normal" position in about 1 minute. That's unrealistic unless regular operating temp is around 160F and never moves from that position in stop-and-go traffic, parked, or any other situation in which you know your temp is changing. The oil pressure should change as rpms change. It stays exactly the same no matter if you are idling or redlining. Voltmeter doesn't really matter.
-Alex
__________________
2012 GT Premium Hardtop with XX Transmission
Mods page: http://dfw50s.com/showthread.php?t=3376
Ford Racing . Pypes . BMR . CDC . American Muscle . DDM Tuning . BFG . J&M . Amsoil . MMD. JLT
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08-10-2013, 04:53 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Tejas
Posts: 356
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Originally Posted by Dominic Toretto
Tell me how functional it is, when you can't tell if you are overheating. -Alex
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Originally Posted by Dominic Toretto
Tell me how functional it is, when you can't tell if you are overheating. The water temp reaches the "normal" position in about 1 minute. That's unrealistic unless regular operating temp is around 160F and never moves from that position in stop-and-go traffic, parked, or any other situation in which you know your temp is changing. The oil pressure should change as rpms change. It stays exactly the same no matter if you are idling or redlining. Voltmeter doesn't really matter.
-Alex
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Are you aware how the thermostat and fan control works to maintain a fairly constant temp?
Here's a pretty good example of an overheating engine:
The boy didn't notice anything wrong until the idiot light came on. Had he done so, he could have pulled over to check it out, and would have noticed that the radiator split and was puking coolant out at a tremendous rate.
Originally Posted by Dominic Toretto
... The oil pressure should change as rpms change. It stays exactly the same no matter if you are idling or redlining...
-Alex
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Sort of. Once the oil pressure gets up to the relief setting, it bypasses rest from there it will be essentially the same pressure.
Same pickup in the overheat picture is an older chevy. With 200K miles on the clock, it doesn't maintain solid oil pressure. When fully warmed up, it doesn't maintain "normal" oil pressure at idle and very low rpms. Obviously the clearance in the bearings and such have opened up somewhat and/or the oil pump doesn't put out the same volume it used to and/or the relief spring has softened up slightly. Its not so bad that I'm going to rebuild it, but I'm not planning on getting another 200K miles.
Originally Posted by Dominic Toretto
... Voltmeter doesn't really matter.
-Alex
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it sure does when the alternator quits putting out a sufficient charge. I'd sure like to have a gauge to warn me that I'm fixing to have a problem.
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