Yes, I was able to get it as close to centered as possible. When I installed the bar I fully seated both rod ends (screwed them in all the way, then I adjusted out from there, this will ensure that both ends are adjusted evenly and not one more that the other. Keep in mind that when you first install the bar this way your car will be all kinds of crooked, but as you adjust the bar a little at a time slowly but surely it will center itself.

I had to adjust measure, adjust measure, adjust measure several times until I was happy with the centering. Also use locktite on the jam nuts otherwise they can work themselves loose and you start all over.

With the bar I have, it is adjusted fully to the center. No more room for adjustement lol and it is still slightly off. I was considering having an inch sawed off but, not really wanting to hack it up. PHBs are cheap so I'll end up buying a different one in the future. Maybe I got an old unit or something who knows?

-Alex

Let me ask you how are you measuring the alignment, fender to wheel center? Fender to wheel/tire (wheel/tire bead) intersection?

I know it sounds weird but when I was using fender to wheel center measurement I would get it lined up perfectly from a measurement standpoint but visually the car was off center to the passenger side. When I used the fender to wheel tire intersection it lined up perfectly both visually and from a measurement standpoint.

I just went by site lol. Bacadiesel and I could not get it adjusted perfectly and it took some time. I guess the best way to describe it is that once the car was lowered, the "center" shifted to the driver side. So no matter how the PHB was adjusted, the passenger side was always closer in than the driver's side and with the PHB completed screwed together, the driver's side would not go completely in the fender well.

-Alex

Hey this guy taught me a little trick. Tape a string to your fender and let it hang down, maybe tie a bolt or something heavy at the end of the string to keep it from moving. And measure from string to wheel bead

At this point, I think it would work better by just using a sledgehammer on the driver's side wheel.

-Alex

Alex are you close to the Irving area? If so I would be happy to help adjust as needed.

If your bar in completely compressed you are seeing the correct results, you need to "unscrew the bar to push the passenger side away from the axle center. By "screwing" the bar tighter you are actually pulling the passenger fender closer to axle center.

I'm in Irving but, I do not have access to a lift or jack stands. It's not a big deal but, I don't mind showing you the car.

-Alex

I have all the needed tools. If you want to try to get it lined up let me know Ill have some free time on Sunday.

Thanks man, appreciate it. PM will be sent.

-Alex

I saw them on American Muscle a couple of months ago for $79 and couldn't pass them up. Ride quality is much improved. No roll. No squat. Makes the car look like is should instead of a 4X4 truck. Installed new Continental Extreme DW's and the car looks and feels 100% better.

My advice is to go ahead and use the money saved on this set and get a good panhard bar that has only one adjustment point. The cheap ones are a pain to adjust on the passenger side.

Agreed, the BMR bar is one that is super easy to dial in and adjust if needed. I have not heard anything bad about this bar either and I would go that route if I had to do it again.