From the sources I have seen, the Ford stuff will be far more expensive for probably an inferior product. I chose BMR personally but, I do have FRPP lowering springs. Only reason I chose those is because it had the drop that I wanted and I don't imagine any manufacturer being able to fuck up a spring. If you still have a full warranty maybe go with Ford but, I've only seen positive reviews of BMR stuff and mostly positive stuff of Whiteline.

-Alex

Yeah I see a lot of BMR relos and not much on the ford racing ones so i will go that route.

You don't NEED them, but you will see improved traction with a set of brackets and lca's.

The FRPP relocation brackets are the most stout ones out. NONE of the others are as solidly made. The FRPP's are about twice as thick as the BMR's or Steeda's. They only have two adj holes. With the 'k' springs and using the top hole the body side of the lca is about 1/8" higher than the axle side. So, with 'p' springs this will be exaggerated.

The FRPP FR500C/ Boss 302R lca's work well with the FRPP relocation brackets. They're just a tubular lca with poly bushings on both ends. Simple and effective.

It's good stuff. As said before, the 302S brackets are VERY stout. I bent my BMR brackets....the Ford ones are doing great. Very nice fit. The 302R arms are cool too- the bushings slide right out and are easily rebuildable, you can get a new set of sleeves and bushings for 40 bucks or so.

Good enough for Grand Am...good enough for me. I have no idea if any of the 302R teams actually use these arms though.

I ordered the 302R LCAs but the BMR relos because I didn't really like the way the FR relos are just zinc coated steel and looked cheap. Guess the BMRs will look cheap if they bend.

csamsh, what kind of 60ft times were you getting when you bent the BMR ones? Also I assume they were not welded.

Ok so i finally got around to installing everything this weekend. Did the rear along with the BMR relos and Boss LCAs on Saturday. Then yesterday I go to change out the stuff on the front. Get the sway bar changed out and new struts in place and start to torque everything down. Just one little problem, I misread the Ford included letter with changes to the torque recommendation to the strut mount bolts which was actually for the main nut holding everything together. So I torqued them to 42ft-lb instead of 26ft-lb that they should have and low and behold if one of them didn't break off. I thought that that was a lot of torque for the mount bolts but since the struts came already assembled it didn't click that they would be giving me specifications for the main nut.

Put the stock units back on it for now and ordered a new set of mounts. Will go ahead and change out both mounts since I don't want to risk having over stressed the ones that didn't break and have them fail later.

What's a 60 foot time??? lol

But seriously- no they weren't welded. A good 60 for me was 1.90-1.95 with 275 street tires @35psi. My car was never a "serious" drag car, and it doesn't go to the drag strip at all any more.

Hmmm that's not very reassuring, I thought I had read that you where ok not welding unless you were sub 1.7.

I am being pretty conservative right now and running mine in the top setting.

I wouldn't say that my lack of success had anything to do with straight lines. I would lean more towards autox/track time.