Blinking Check Engine Light
 

Today I had a new anomaly with my car. Was at a local raceway, then lost a huge amount of power and 10mph off my trap speed. Immediately greeted by a flashing check engine light that would flash for no more than 15 seconds than disappear. Obviously I was losing power so I decided to limp the car home. I figured that it may be tune related since I got new ones or possibly bad gas causing a misfire. My SCT tuner wasn't able to pick up and DTC Codes either. Eventually I was able to plug in a 91 octane tune instead of a 93 tune which is what I suspected as a problem.

On the drive back I was being cautious, monitoring my A/F ratio and other aspects. Check engine never came back on until I decided to give it a little gas on a freeway on ramp. Instantly got a blinking CEL again. Rest of the drive home, no issues. Figure I will try to run some newer 93 with a fuel system cleaner/octane booster to see if it was gas related. Then if this doesn't work my only thoughts would be a bad coil or spark plug.

I am just hoping I don't have a cylinder 8 issue looming or something bigger as I am sure the dealership won't warranty anything with my car. Anyone else experience something like this before. :Frustrated:

Sounds like an air leak in the intake or charge piping letting unmetered air in

Hoping for the best for you. But yeah, you are right I think. A dealership will not touch your motor.

Sounds like spark plug to me.

Fu$k me. The light finally stayed on so I was able to read a DTC. I'm going to try a new spark plug tomorrow, but I'm thinking I am screwed on this one.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psm6juupjb.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psjfou5ikh.jpg

Damn that sucks. Hopefully it just needs a new spark plug and that's it.

How many miles you have on your 5.0? Total and since you went boost.

Yeah, not what I was hoping to find out with the tuner.

13,5xx miles right now. Went boosted at the 12k mile point, been running the ProCharger canned tune up until last week which I had a dyno tune done. A/F ratios were not dangerous on either tune...May have to start reading into some warranties here soon.

Tomorrow I will get it looked at if possible, don't want to go to a dealer right away since I know where that conversation will go.

Damn that sucks. Hopefully it's just a plug.

Any smoke? Any water in the oil?

That's what I am hoping.

Didn't appear to be any smoke. Only thing I have is a real hard start, engine cranking but engine not turning over until after a couple seconds. Didn't have anyone following though to really see it. By the time I got back, it was too dark for me to see. Right now I am just hoping and will try to tackle some of the diagnosing tomorrow.

Boss 302 Crankshaft M-6303-M50B – $242.00
Boss 302R Piston/Rod/Ring Combo M-6100-M50BR – $759.00

:facepalm: I hope it's a plug.

Ugh...$1k in parts plus labor...there goes my chances of affording a trailer. I just hope I can get this thing up before the Texas Mile.

I think those would be the cheapest upgrade route and should handle 700 easily its what I was thinking of doing. I guess your the guinea pig. there's actually a thread going on about these internals you could keep the stock crank and get billet oil pump gears

Haha, glad I can help you out here.

I would have to get the stock crank rebalanced though and the boss crank is designed to work with those rods/pistons. I would love to have a forged bottom end...but this situation this sucks.

Just my personal opinion but if the motor is apart I would go ahead and put forged internals. There is no point in doing it twice.