Boss Heads Vs. GT Heads
 

Has anyone noticed a flow chart or have definitive evidence that the Boss heads are worth the upgrade to over the factory GT heads? Curious to see how they would effect power on a standard GT with the regular manifold.

P.S., if this has been explained already on here, shoot me in the face.

-Alex

BOSS are mildly ported and flow roughly 5cfm more per cylinder than the GT. Valves are a bit different and the spring rate is a tad better. Worth it to purchase them as a performance upgrade? No. Not IMO.

If someone were interested in something like this I'd recommend putting that money into cams which I think is a better upgrade than heads alone.

^^^ This

Excellent response, thanks Tim. I was just looking over prices of NA upgrades. I did notice the cams. I would think though that a cam would perform better with the Boss heads but not sure how much better. Any takes on that?

-Alex

No need for this info.

what is the main difference between the stock 5.0 and Boss timing chain tensioner?

If your not worried about the small peripherals that come along with the BOSS heads, porting your stockers is a slightly cheaper, much higher flowing option.

No need for this info.

Seems like putting a blower on it would be cheaper. Would get more power out of the blower as well

Seems like adding two bottles of nitrous would be cheaper. Would get more power out of nitrous as well.

-Alex

No need for this info.

Fast is relative. I'm good with how fast the car is stock. I'm not looking to build something to be faster than everyone else's car. And basically this thread is just about information gathering. For those people that ARE looking to be the fastest car on the track they might want to know information about both sets of heads as well :)

-Alex

Good info in here.

I agree. For the return on the dollar and ease of making power boost is the way to go in my opinion.

These Coyote parts are ridiculously expensive it's mindboggling that it's a Mustang. Reminds me more of the Vette tax than a Mustang! lol. For me, the return on these heads just wouldn't justify the cost for MY goal for my car.

Plus, I LOVE boost!


LOL, never owned a nitrous car before have you?

It's certainly far more difficult. Driving ability, suspension set up and weight become far more of a concern. I'd rather take the easy road and just throw boost at it. And of course I couldn't remotely care less about chasing an ET anymore. I have to ignore it and just have fun with the car otherwise it will become a weekly obsession to chase those magical ET whoring out the car and wasting a LOT of time at the track over times that really mean nothing at the end of the day. I look back at that time, I learned a lot, but I can't say I enjoyed it a lot because I obsessed over it so much. It became work instead of just having fun.

I loved building the Na hondas as funny as that sounds. To build a fast NA car you really have to know your shit and that particular car to get every ounce of pony!

Its all good. Everyone has their things they are into. If that is the challenge you want to give yourself, I say go for it.

Im in no way denying that a supercharger and or juice is a easy way to get alot of power. NA is very expensive once you ad it all up but cheaper if you think of it as part by part. Alot of people have a hard time spending 5k plus on a supercharger. Even if I had it I would feel somewhat guilty buying it because thats alot of cash that could be used for something else.

Nope. Does it cost ~$8,000 for parts and labor and tuning for a nitrous setup though?

-Alex

Depends on how many bottles you go through :D

Looks like building a stout NA application would cost more and definitely yield less power, as to be expected. Just funny people think they can slap on a blower, run 8lbs of boost all day and night on a stock bottom end and expect it to be as reliable and cheap as doing the same thing with an strong NA build.

These motors are pretty new. So I don't trust anyone that says, yes you can add 50% horsepower on a stock bottom and and race it all day and expect the stock pistons and rods to be just fine. That's just dumb. Once I see people doing that upwards of 60k plus miles on a blower setup with stock internals, I'll consider it. Until then, it's just a dumb assumption.

-Alex

People here are not considering longterm usability, clearly. So a bottle of nitrous always wins in the power/dollar argument.

-Alex

550 to 600 seems to be pretty reliable. Ford racing offers a kit thats is covered on a 1yr 12k mile warranty IMO that says something. IT really comes down to how the owner treats the car.

A GOOD nitrous kit can cost as much as some blowers. Add to that constant bottle refills at $45 bucks a pop which is a never ending expense.

Add to that a nitrous set up isn't always ready. It needs to be armed, good bottle pressure which means you need a good bottle heater and remote valve opener. That's if you want a good street set up.

You can do it on the cheap for a track like the old days heating it up with a torch of course and a button, but that's kinda ghetto now in the day and age of tech we have now.

Good nitrous kit I.E all the goodies prolly around 1500 new.

And for those that want to be able to beat on their cars reliably daily, they will have to fork over more to build the bottom end to handle the abuse.

I like driving a fun car often. Not just 3 days out of the month. To me it's not very fun to have a fast car that you have to pamper because you're scared a rod will break. So for those that do enjoy that, hey cool. I just know I wouldn't. So in my eyes, the cost of a successful blower setup includes a built bottom end.

-Alex

Exactly. A lot LESS than the price of just a uninstalled blower.

Someone provide a link showing the price of a full nitrous install costing about $8,000.00.

-Alex

I'm pretty sure that anyone here that is looking to make good power isn't planning on the stock motor to get them there in the long run. It's pretty much a given at that power level that a motor build is in the plan at some point which is why you see so many people buying blowers that are bigger than the stock motor can handle, but being able to crank up later on a built one. Room to grow so to speak.

My car is basically stock right now, I do not beat it everyday. Hell, Id be lucky to redline it once a week. LOL I think my motor would last a long time even at 650 LOL. This is all hypothetical though lots of factors.

LOL, hell no! $1500 for a ghetto set up maybe. If you want a plumbed intake, remote valves, bottle heaters, good solenoids,lightweight bottles, progressive controller so you don't blow tire every time you hit the WOT switch etc.

I almost snorted coffee out my nose at that one! Fuck that hurt. lol

A Paxton can be had for $4400 bucks. Don't take to an extreme to suit your argument. lol

The Nx kit is 700 I believe. Bottle warmer, purge kit, ect. Theres a new kit out that has the progressive controller, rpm switch and everything built in for like 1300.

No need for this info.

I just priced a NX kit, purge, warmer, opener, for 1550. Add a window switch and controller and your looking at 2k roughly.

I can bite on to that idea. At least with that, you can see how long a stock one will last at boost and figure out the weak points of the internals.

Me personally, I'm going to give it a few years to see what developes from people that have spent the money and effort. I don't want to make their mistakes :D

-Alex

I'm hoping there will be a ZR1 in my garage in a couple of years! lol.

Exactly. When the Kseries honda came out everyone was bitching about how the motor was weaker then the Bseries. Now 450-500 on stock internals is a well known fact. Just like the S2000 making 600whp on stock bottom ends is reliable. The record for that stock long block is 700whp.

Excellent advise. I would think the main difference would be piston choices for different compression for an NA and boosted application though.

-Alex

Exactly. That's why I references the F22C. I believe that car comes with forged crank and rods stock. So you can boost it and not have to worry about the bottom end failing for a good while.

-Alex

When they first came out people were saying that since they were high compression 350 whp was the tops before you needed a build. Now look at them today! Crazy! I knew people that blew them up back then at 300whp lol!

No need for this info.