Dallas Fort Worth 5.0 Mustang Club

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-   -   Boss Heads Vs. GT Heads (http://www.dfw50s.com/showthread.php?t=3062)

re-rx7 11-08-2013 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlowGreyGT (Post 55816)
LOL, hell no! $1500 for a ghetto set up maybe. If you want a plumbed intake, remote valves, bottle heaters, good solenoids, progressive controller so you don't blow tire every time you hit the WOT switch etc.

I almost snorted coffee out my nose at that one! Fuck that hurt. lol

The Nx kit is 700 I believe. Bottle warmer, purge kit, ect. Theres a new kit out that has the progressive controller, rpm switch and everything built in for like 1300.

wbt 11-08-2013 12:36 PM

No need for this info.

re-rx7 11-08-2013 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlowGreyGT (Post 55816)
LOL, hell no! $1500 for a ghetto set up maybe. If you want a plumbed intake, remote valves, bottle heaters, good solenoids,lightweight bottles, progressive controller so you don't blow tire every time you hit the WOT switch etc.

I almost snorted coffee out my nose at that one! Fuck that hurt. lol

I just priced a NX kit, purge, warmer, opener, for 1550. Add a window switch and controller and your looking at 2k roughly.

Dominic Toretto 11-08-2013 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlowGreyGT (Post 55813)
I'm pretty sure that anyone here that is looking to make good power isn't planning on the stock motor to get them there in the long run..

I can bite on to that idea. At least with that, you can see how long a stock one will last at boost and figure out the weak points of the internals.

Quote:

Originally Posted by re-rx7 (Post 55814)
My car is basically stock right now, I do not beat it everyday. Hell, Id be lucky to redline it once a week. LOL I think my motor would last a long time even at 650 LOL. This is all hypothetical though lots of factors.

Me personally, I'm going to give it a few years to see what developes from people that have spent the money and effort. I don't want to make their mistakes :D

-Alex

Grandpa 11-08-2013 12:40 PM

I'm hoping there will be a ZR1 in my garage in a couple of years! lol.

re-rx7 11-08-2013 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dominic Toretto (Post 55822)


Me personally, I'm going to give it a few years to see what developes from people that have spent the money and effort. I don't want to make their mistakes :D

-Alex

Exactly. When the Kseries honda came out everyone was bitching about how the motor was weaker then the Bseries. Now 450-500 on stock internals is a well known fact. Just like the S2000 making 600whp on stock bottom ends is reliable. The record for that stock long block is 700whp.

Dominic Toretto 11-08-2013 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wbt (Post 55820)
Something else to consider, and it really does come down to setting up goals....if you decide to put together an N/A build short to medium term and long term want to put a power adder on the car, use parts that will work for both applications so you aren't buying twice or three times. Examples would be:

Exhaust
Suspension
Driveline
Tires/wheels
Electronics
Oil pump gears
Damper
etc....

Build the foundation first then whatever you decide to do down the road will compliment it.

Excellent advise. I would think the main difference would be piston choices for different compression for an NA and boosted application though.

-Alex

Dominic Toretto 11-08-2013 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by re-rx7 (Post 55824)
Exactly. When the Kseries honda came out everyone was bitching about how the motor was weaker then the Bseries. Now 450-500 on stock internals is a well known fact. Just like the S2000 making 600whp on stock bottom ends is reliable. The record for that stock long block is 700whp.

Exactly. That's why I references the F22C. I believe that car comes with forged crank and rods stock. So you can boost it and not have to worry about the bottom end failing for a good while.

-Alex

re-rx7 11-08-2013 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dominic Toretto (Post 55827)
Exactly. That's why I references the F22C. I believe that car comes with forged crank and rods stock. So you can boost it and not have to worry about the bottom end failing for a good while.

-Alex

When they first came out people were saying that since they were high compression 350 whp was the tops before you needed a build. Now look at them today! Crazy! I knew people that blew them up back then at 300whp lol!

wbt 11-08-2013 01:00 PM

No need for this info.

re-rx7 11-08-2013 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wbt (Post 55830)
It's all relative to cylinder pressure.

Less boost, more compression.
Less compression, more boost.

These platforms are 11:1 and they seem to handle a decent amount of boost.

From a piston standpoint....I prefer to run a flat top or dished piston vs. a pop-up as I think you get a better flame pattern resulting in more efficient fuel burn however that is a sacrifice in compression. In the pushrod days you could overcome that by decking the block and milling the heads. Not going to happen with the OHC stuff.

And fuel type?

wbt 11-08-2013 01:20 PM

No need for this info.

Dominic Toretto 11-08-2013 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wbt (Post 55841)
My rule of thumb is run the least amount of octane without detonation as possible. What that means for each combo depends.

Some will get away with 93, others are stuck with MS109, e85, etc...

Could you elaborate more on this please? I don't have as much knowledge on this as I should so just asking one of the experts here :)

-Alex

re-rx7 11-08-2013 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dominic Toretto (Post 55938)
Could you elaborate more on this please? I don't have as much knowledge on this as I should so just asking one of the experts here :)

-Alex

HE is looking for the most complete combustion cycle. By using the least octane needed for the burn he is insuring that there is a complete combustion for optimal efficiency.

wbt 11-09-2013 01:59 AM

No need for this info.


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