I honestly will change mine between 6-8k. It just sounds right. :sunot:

I'm at like 7.5k now on this oil change and its about time. Gotta go spend $80 on some Royal Purple I guess.

Waste of cash.

Post up the results if you don't mind, Amsoil is what's going in next and I'd like to have more results to compare too.

Compared to Motorcraft? I'd have to disagree.

You really need to research motor oil....Just for shits. What makes motorcraft bad?

There's nothing wrong with Motorcraft oil, but if you want a full synthetic, you have to switch brands.

Oil change cost?
 

Yup.

From what I've read it breaks down much faster. I am by no means an oil guru, I have been trying to read up on different oils from different sources to gain some unbiased knowledge on it. So far I've found that for daily duty on a typical car all oils will protect as they should, but when it comes to racing and really putting strain on the parts a better oil will protect better and longer. For those that plan on getting rid of their cars before 100k I'm sure there isn't much personal benefit. I plan on running the dog shit out of mine and eventually when the time comes that I get a built motor, this one will hopefully be put into a foxbody and continue to run efficiently as it should.

Most oils when broke dwn get thicker. This is what kills a motor. 10PSI PER 1000RPM is a gd rule of thumb. When racing Id change oil every 1-2k miles or when your done as the street oil will lubricate better then the race oil on the daily trips.

Pennzoil Ultra if you can find it is really good for about 60 on 10 quarts. Amsoil did a oil comparison in feb this year and while PU wasn't the best it was in the top performers. Oddly enough M1 extended performance didnt fare as well as I thought it would have and I've been using it (or similar full synthetic m1) for the last 10 years!

http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests.aspx

I've heard about Pennzoil Ultra being really good, it had slipped my mind, I've always heard terrible things about Pennzoil, but that was years ago.

And thanks for the link, you gave me something to do at work!

I don't know if break down or contaminate is the correct word, but HPP says for those of us running E85 (especially since its more like E90 around here) should continue to change our oil at 3k miles. Even on E85, I went 5k this last time with no issues.

That said, my oil change was free at Grapevine Ford yesterday. They have a sign up that says they have to do a vehicle walk-around inspection and pop the hood with you present or your oil change is free. The guy got sidetracked looking at my tires that need to be replaced that he didn't pop the hood. Otherwise, it'd have been $60.

Haha, pretty cool that you got it for free, I probably wouldn't use that service advisor again though, he probably won't be too helpful, lol. I wonder if that came out of his check, do you recall the guy's name? My wife is actually there right now, they asked her why she brought her own oil and if something was wrong with the car.

McBride was the last name. Don't remember the first, maybe Todd???

Will do!

With e85 yes I'd agree. It attracts moisture like a sponge.

You couldn't pay me to run pennsoil. We just got through fixing a gto that had been run on pennsoil it's whole life. All the lifters are trashed, had a bent and broken pushrod, and when we pulled the valve cover was pulled there was an huge amount of sludge. We asked the customer and he said that the oil was changed regularly with pennsoil. It definitely shows...

That series of pennzoil? Conventional is shit due to the PA oil quality they have up there. Their synthetic is a different beast.

Omg. Pennzoil this Castro that. Pennzoil actually makes some of the best synthetic oil on the market. Standard on all Ferraris. Has a thin viscosity at start up and gd modifiers. I'm guessing you just took the customers word? I'm saying this...there is nothing wrong with pennzoil. Almost all synthetics are the same. In the 20 grade pennzoil may actually be one of te best.

The car itself looked to be well taken care of. This is not the first time I have seen these results when pennsoil was regularly run in a vehicle. I have worked in a mechanics shop for over 10 years now. I have seen cars come in that the oil was never changed in, ones that have 150k with regular service using conventional and synthetic. In my experience, pennsoil is pure junk, I would rather put used 10k mile oil in my car over pennsoil. Just is speaking from personal experience with what I have seen and dealt with in person, not what I read on some forum or blog on the Internet or what I saw in a magazine article.

When it comes to oil it's real simple. Weight grade and service requirement. The oil molecules themselves do not wear out. The additives do. Like I stated before, it is the oil recommended by Ferrari after they closed their deal with Mobil. Actually Monil is considered to not be one of the best. I've hear equal amounts of stories about other brands of oils and its just that....stories.
"Paraffin is the proper organic chemistry word for aliphatic hydrocarbons...more commonly known as oil. It is also the correct name for wax and candles. But there is as much difference between paraffin wax and paraffin oil as there is between a chestnut horse and a horse chestnut. They just aint the same thing. Don't matter whether you're talking about Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline or your wife's Christmas candles. If you like Pennzoil, use it worry free"
Once again there aren't any bad oil as they all have to meet the service requirements set forth by the gov't. Synthetic is better then conventional is about the only truth.

My stepdad has been an engine builder for years and he's said the same about Pennsoil, even the "I'd rather use used oil" part. I've never personally used it in anything but Pennsoil being garbage is what I commonly hear form people.

Edit: Except Pennsoil Ultra, this has been the one product they have I've heard good things about.

I'm not trying to discredit you in any way but where do you get your info, I may as well do some more reading. Just seems when you see results from oil samples done by a third party that actually show differences between brands, it seems hard to believe they are all the same. But like I said earlier, for vehicles not being beat on, they will all do the job, some just do it better than others.

Walmart's oil prices are hard to beat when you buy oil in the 5 quart jug and then tack on 3 more quarts. Mobil 1 Extended comes out to be around $40 something altogher then I just take it to Sam Pack and let the do the labor and grab a fitler for about $15 more.

Yeah all of these oil test out pretty well and meet gov't guidelines based upon their change interval. That's not the point though. I have been researching like Luke for the absolute best for our cars. Seems like Amsoil and Royal Purple is the consensus favorites based upon Coyote oil samples. Yeah Motorcraft works just fine, but it's not the best for our engines. Either way all of these oils will probably take the car to 100k, but again I want the proven best especially when they all cost around the same (by tier at least) and have extremely similar change intervals. The industry and tuners will eventually find out as Coyotes age.

I accumulated my knowledge over the years. A lot of it when I had a rotary. Rotaries are extremely hard on oil as the oil does 1/3 of the cooling. Oil selection was vital. I researched and researched. Pennzoil got a bad rep back in the late 80's early 90's. nowadays the oil is fine. You say that they all meet the requirements just like i said but also state that's not the point. What is the point? Also funny story. A lot of people say it because the oil is made from Pennsylvania oil. The reason that is funny is because so is Brad Penn racing oil. Lol

Links references to pennzoil I just googled.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...&Number=623736
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/penn...dge-44640.html

The point I was trying to make is that I want the absolute best oil, especially since they have similiar price points among their tier groups. I guess it really doesn't matter what brand you use in the grand scheme of things because a lot their addtives seem to work extremely similiar. But one of the brands must have at least one leg up on the competition and so far results are showing that it's Amsoil. Time will tell though.

Amsoil is gd dnt get me wrong. I really like it. It comes down to what your doing with it. If you race all the time then yea def wrth it. If daily and race every now and then I'd go with a really gd off the shelf.

It's one thing to meet certain requirements, but it is another to exceed those requirements. Yes you are correct, the oil molecules do not wear out, but the additives do. And its those additives in pennsoil that cause the sludging and problems I have personally seen many many times first hand.

At the end of the day, everyone has their own opinion. Personally I have run nothing but mobil 1, valvoline and motorcraft with 0 issues. The oil is always in good shape(for used oil) when I change it, every engine I have torn down after using these oils have shown little to no sign of abnormal wear. The engine in my mustang now, I removed it with the intensions of a coyote swap. While the engine was out I checked the bearings out before trying to sell it, and they looked just as new as when i had installed them 5k extremely hard miles ago. I ended up putting a smaller cam and putting the motor back in the car for now and it runs great, makes 80 lbs of oil pressure. I run mobil 1 10w-40 in it with a motorcraft filter.