Blinking Check Engine Light

[Crimson600+HP]

Today I had a new anomaly with my car. Was at a local raceway, then lost a huge amount of power and 10mph off my trap speed. Immediately greeted by a flashing check engine light that would flash for no more than 15 seconds than disappear. Obviously I was losing power so I decided to limp the car home. I figured that it may be tune related since I got new ones or possibly bad gas causing a misfire. My SCT tuner wasn't able to pick up and DTC Codes either. Eventually I was able to plug in a 91 octane tune instead of a 93 tune which is what I suspected as a problem.

On the drive back I was being cautious, monitoring my A/F ratio and other aspects. Check engine never came back on until I decided to give it a little gas on a freeway on ramp. Instantly got a blinking CEL again. Rest of the drive home, no issues. Figure I will try to run some newer 93 with a fuel system cleaner/octane booster to see if it was gas related. Then if this doesn't work my only thoughts would be a bad coil or spark plug.

I am just hoping I don't have a cylinder 8 issue looming or something bigger as I am sure the dealership won't warranty anything with my car. Anyone else experience something like this before. :Frustrated:

[PLASMAN]

Sounds like an air leak in the intake or charge piping letting unmetered air in

[maxpayne]

Hoping for the best for you. But yeah, you are right I think. A dealership will not touch your motor.

[Darkhelmet22]

Sounds like spark plug to me.

[Crimson600+HP]

Fu$k me. The light finally stayed on so I was able to read a DTC. I'm going to try a new spark plug tomorrow, but I'm thinking I am screwed on this one.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i157/jeffcrosbie/20140126_194010_zpsm6juupjb.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i157/jeffcrosbie/20140126_194020_zpsjfou5ikh.jpg

[maxpayne]

Damn that sucks. Hopefully it just needs a new spark plug and that's it.

How many miles you have on your 5.0? Total and since you went boost.

[Crimson600+HP]

Yeah, not what I was hoping to find out with the tuner.

13,5xx miles right now. Went boosted at the 12k mile point, been running the ProCharger canned tune up until last week which I had a dyno tune done. A/F ratios were not dangerous on either tune...May have to start reading into some warranties here soon.

Tomorrow I will get it looked at if possible, don't want to go to a dealer right away since I know where that conversation will go.

[Darkhelmet22]

Damn that sucks. Hopefully it's just a plug.

[BV600]

Any smoke? Any water in the oil?

[Crimson600+HP]

Damn that sucks. Hopefully it's just a plug.

That's what I am hoping.

Any smoke? Any water in the oil?

Didn't appear to be any smoke. Only thing I have is a real hard start, engine cranking but engine not turning over until after a couple seconds. Didn't have anyone following though to really see it. By the time I got back, it was too dark for me to see. Right now I am just hoping and will try to tackle some of the diagnosing tomorrow.

[BV600]

Boss 302 Crankshaft M-6303-M50B – $242.00
Boss 302R Piston/Rod/Ring Combo M-6100-M50BR – $759.00

[Crimson600+HP]

:facepalm: I hope it's a plug.

Ugh...$1k in parts plus labor...there goes my chances of affording a trailer. I just hope I can get this thing up before the Texas Mile.

[BV600]

:facepalm: I hope it's a plug.

Ugh...$1k in parts plus labor...there goes my chances of affording a trailer. I just hope I can get this thing up before the Texas Mile.

I think those would be the cheapest upgrade route and should handle 700 easily its what I was thinking of doing. I guess your the guinea pig. there's actually a thread going on about these internals you could keep the stock crank and get billet oil pump gears

[Crimson600+HP]

Haha, glad I can help you out here.

I would have to get the stock crank rebalanced though and the boss crank is designed to work with those rods/pistons. I would love to have a forged bottom end...but this situation this sucks.

[blownaltered]

Just my personal opinion but if the motor is apart I would go ahead and put forged internals. There is no point in doing it twice.

[JDMLOL]

Have you done a compression check? If the plug and then coil don't fix it, that is what I would try next.

[Crimson600+HP]

Just my personal opinion but if the motor is apart I would go ahead and put forged internals. There is no point in doing it twice.

If cylinder 8 is bad and I really have to do a rebuild, I will definately be doing forged internals. No sense paying to take the engine out and apart then put the timebomb back in. I am just hoping this isn't the issue.

Have you done a compression check? If the plug and then coil don't fix it, that is what I would try next.

Haven't done a compression check, hoping I don't get to that point but it probably needs to be done anyways even if the other solutions correct the issue. I am pretty sure if it isn't fuel (bad gas or injector) or spark related (Coil or Plug), then the only thing left is to join the failed cylinder 8 club.

Right now there is a possibility that the PCV is blowing back into the engine though since the ProCharger kit simply caps off the ports. I have been looking at getting a newer catch can (don't like breathers) to work, but haven't jumped on aything yet. If is just a gummed up spark plug then the next thing that is getting ordered is a new catch can system though. These problems just suck, especially for a car that isn't a year old. I understand modifications put different stresses on engines, but this is an engineering issue with these 5.0 Coyote engines.

[DirtyD]

Maybe call CTP and get them to check out the car again? Obviously you haven't had the car back that long, and they would be the guys to figure it out.

[maxpayne]

Maybe call CTP and get them to check out the car again? Obviously you haven't had the car back that long, and they would be the guys to figure it out.

This.

[46Tbird]

Hate to tell you, but that's the same symptoms my car had... that resulted in Ford replacing the engine under warranty.

Mine was a completely stock 2012 GT (no tune or any other mods) at 23700 miles. The service replacement engine for my car was what they put in the 2013-14 GTs, with the coated pistons, additional ring gas ports, and different head bolts.

I haven't heard of many blown-up 2013-14 engines, but with boost and some road course time, I could see it. I certainly hope that's not the case for you. Good luck.

[re-rx7]

Who tuned it?

[Crimson600+HP]

Maybe call CTP and get them to check out the car again? Obviously you haven't had the car back that long, and they would be the guys to figure it out.

That's the plan right now.

Hate to tell you, but that's the same symptoms my car had... that resulted in Ford replacing the engine under warranty.

Mine was a completely stock 2012 GT (no tune or any other mods) at 23700 miles. The service replacement engine for my car was what they put in the 2013-14 GTs, with the coated pistons, additional ring gas ports, and different head bolts.

I haven't heard of many blown-up 2013-14 engines, but with boost and some road course time, I could see it. I certainly hope that's not the case for you. Good luck.

I haven't heard of '13+'s having this problem either. That's why I think I may just have a simple fuel or spark problem. Hoping this isn't a huge problem.

Who tuned it?

I just had it tuned by CTP that same week so I am sure it wasn't them. I had been running the canned ProCharger tune for almost four months. So if there is a culprit, I am pointing at ProChargers tune as I only put maybe 20 miles on the car since CTP touched it. I had driveability issue with ProChargers tune anyways which is why I sought after an aftermarket tuner.

[DirtyD]

If you pushed the car hard on the canned Procharger tune, that very well may be the issue, and when CTP was done with it, the damage was already done, making that cylinder weaker.

[Crimson600+HP]

Didn't have a chance last night to pull the plug, but this morning I was able to talk with CTP. Jeff down there is rather optomistic about the plug or coil being bad based on some attributes of my car. Whenever it is cold, it has always had a weak idle almost sounding like I had a real aggressive cam or lope idle tune. So this check maybe the root cause of the cylinder 8 misfire for me. The plugs were replaced to NGK plugs that were a step colder when I put the ProCharger on so there is a chance that something isn't right. This afternoon I will clear the code, run it for a while and see if it comes up again. Based on that, we will check out the plugs, then if looking good we will swap out the coil pack and plug in a different cylinder to see if it throws a code again.

I am staying optomistic right now based on our conversation though. I just wished it would have been a different cylinder that misfired, then I would have alot more peace of mind lol.

[maxpayne]

I just had it tuned by CTP that same week so I am sure it wasn't them. I had been running the canned ProCharger tune for almost four months. So if there is a culprit, I am pointing at ProChargers tune as I only put maybe 20 miles on the car since CTP touched it. I had driveability issue with ProChargers tune anyways which is why I sought after an aftermarket tuner.

In my opinion, looking strictly from a causation standpoint, there are three available culprits if something truely is wrong with your motor. 1) bad luck+pushing a stock coyote motor on boost at the track over time, 2) the CTP tune, or 3) the Procharger Canned Tune. Or, it could be combination of all three.

I understand you took a risk when you went boost. However, if it were me and I had to point a finger at someone or something and bad luck (#1 above) was not an option, I would look at CTP.

To me, it is only logical. Your car did not have any check engine lights and your car didn't randomly lose power before they tuned it. They tuned it and 20 miles later, you are losing power and popping a check engine light. But, that's just a simple causation conclusion. In the legal world, the length of time between two events, with one event potentially being a producing cause of the later event, can be evidence of causation. The closer in time, more likely the earlier event was a producing cause of the later event.

But, hopefully it's only a plug and no fingers have to be pointed.

[Crimson600+HP]

For me it would actually be the opposite. If it turns out to be a blown piston rings on #8 (which we all know is a flaw on stock coyote engines once you start asking for more power), I would be pointing the fingers at ProCharger. Catestrophic failures like this seem like it would take time to weaken the part to the point in which it would fail. CTP has done some great work and I have full faith in there shop. So I am not into the pointing fingers game.

Either way, I cleared the DTC during lunch and let the car run for about 30 minutes on its own. It was smoking a little from the passenger tailpipe only so I believe there is still a misfire. After the engine warmed up, no code was thrown, and the smoke was non-existent. This one has me puzzled, but I am leaning more towards a spark issue.

[maxpayne]

For me it would actually be the opposite. If it turns out to be a blown piston rings on #8 (which we all know is a flaw on stock coyote engines once you start asking for more power), I would be pointing the fingers at ProCharger. Catestrophic failures like this seem like it would take time to weaken the part to the point in which it would fail. CTP has done some great work and I have full faith in there shop. So I am not into the pointing fingers game.

Either way, I cleared the DTC during lunch and let the car run for about 30 minutes on its own. It was smoking a little from the passenger tailpipe only so I believe there is still a misfire. After the engine warmed up, no code was thrown, and the smoke was non-existent. This one has me puzzled, but I am leaning more towards a spark issue.

That makes sense as well. Keep us updated buddy.

[Dominic Toretto]

Best wishes either way.

-Alex

[BV600]

I dont think its the power level...575whp.

I would think it would be a blow by issue. Same thing led to the destruction (somewhat) in my old 12. Capped off pcv system, a ton of oil in the procharger piping and on the plugs. New owner put stock plugs in and thats what did it. The plugs where so gunked up I would think that would lead to some sort of spark issues.

[re-rx7]

in my opinion, looking strictly from a causation standpoint, there are three available culprits if something truely is wrong with your motor. 1) bad luck+pushing a stock coyote motor on boost at the track over time, 2) the ctp tune, or 3) the procharger canned tune. Or, it could be combination of all three.

I understand you took a risk when you went boost. However, if it were me and i had to point a finger at someone or something and bad luck (#1 above) was not an option, i would look at ctp.

To me, it is only logical. Your car did not have any check engine lights and your car didn't randomly lose power before they tuned it. They tuned it and 20 miles later, you are losing power and popping a check engine light. But, that's just a simple causation conclusion. In the legal world, the length of time between two events, with one event potentially being a producing cause of the later event, can be evidence of causation. The closer in time, more likely the earlier event was a producing cause of the later event.

But, hopefully it's only a plug and no fingers have to be pointed.

agreed. Everything was fine and as soon as it was touched someting happens.

[DirtyD]

agreed. Everything was fine and as soon as it was touched someting happens.
You seem to forget he ran the conservative Procharger tune on the car for 4 months, that included a couple of roadrace events. All CTP did was retune the car. The damage was likely done from the procharger tune, and when CTP dialed it up, it just put more stress on it. How were they to know anything was wrong if there were no symptoms?

[re-rx7]

How can you know that there was something wrong with the procharger tune. It can go both ways. The Canned tune was most likely extremely conservative.

[DirtyD]

How can you know that there was something wrong with the procharger tune. It can go both ways. The Canned tune was most likely extremely conservative.


Most of those tunes are intended to get you from your shop/garage to a tuner, and not really best on them for 4 months...

[Crimson600+HP]

Most of those tunes are intended to get you from your shop/garage to a tuner, and not really best on them for 4 months...

They are made to run on, only put on about 700 miles on that tune actually. Both tunes are real safe, with spot on A/F ratios. I am about as safe as you can run as far as timing with the CTP tune and have full confidence. He has never had a car blow in him as his philosophy is tune at idle speeds to focus on driveability.

I had a rough start once I put the ProCharger on in the first place, at that point the plugs and injectors were changed. No issues with driveability before the supercharger. So, the chances of that being the problem could very well be it. I won't point fingers, I have full confidence in the shop. Until I know more, no one is to blame.

[Crimson600+HP]

How can you know that there was something wrong with the procharger tune. It can go both ways. The Canned tune was most likely extremely conservative.

ProCharger still puts out there basic HO kit fits 2013+ Mustangs without trimming. It wasn't until this year where they finally realized that it won't due to the HID ballasts. Companies make mistakes all the time and I don't believe ProCharger has an in house tuner.

[DirtyD]

They are made to run on, only put on about 700 miles on that tune actually. Both tunes are real safe, with spot on A/F ratios. I am about as safe as you can run as far as timing with the CTP tune and have full confidence. He has never had a car blow in him as his philosophy is tune at idle speeds to focus on driveability.

I had a rough start once I put the ProCharger on in the first place, at that point the plugs and injectors were changed. No issues with driveability before the supercharger. So, the chances of that being the problem could very well be it. I won't point fingers, I have full confidence in the shop. Until I know more, no one is to blame.
Sorry, I wasn't trying to blame you by any means. My apologies if it seemed that way.

I hope it comes down to a plug or COP issue.

[Crimson600+HP]

I got ya brother, no offense taken. I would blame myself as I make this car earn its name as a sports car. Tomorrow is D-Day for diagnosis.

[El_Tortuga]

.... I won't point fingers, I have full confidence in the shop. Until I know more, no one is to blame.

Sorry, but we can't have any of that rational thought, good judgement, and patience. Here on the interwebs, we expect instantaneous judgement on an incomplete set of facts with extreme overreactions. Throw in a little righteous indignation should anyone dare question or disagree and show is complete. ;)

How's the patient?

[Crimson600+HP]

Sorry, but we can't have any of that rational thought, good judgement, and patience. Here on the interwebs, we expect instantaneous judgement on an incomplete set of facts with extreme overreactions. Throw in a little righteous indignation should anyone dare question or disagree and show is complete. ;)

How's the patient?

Haha, truth. I should become more erratic in my posts. That and make sure everyone knows I have the fastest car in the world lol.

Honestly, I haven't heard anything yet and I am too afraid to call and see what's up. I am trying to be patient and give the shop time to do things right and diagnose the issue. I will probably be giving them a call tomorrow that way I can have some peace of mind over the weekend or cry myself to sleep each night.

[Crimson600+HP]

Finally got the balls to call the shop today. Well, it wasn't a spark plug, coil, injector, or something easy. Failed a compression check, but the rings were still good. Turns out I had a chunk of the #8 piston head broke off. Just gone, bare metal showing. So, it was the typical #8 failure, but the endstate is the same...catastrophic failure.

Right now they are tearing the engine apart to see if there is any other damage. If everything is good, I can simply replace the piston head in that cylinder and probably call it a day. Or I can go ahead, bite the extra bullet/$$$, and throw a forged rotating assembly (rods and pistons) and call it an engine. Right now I am just going to research the internet for forged internals and drink. Once I run out of booze in the house, looks like I am going to be sober for a while until I can afford it again.

[maxpayne]

Sorry to hear that man.

I say build it, especially since you plan on keeping it a while.

Or, patch it up and part it out, then sell it and buy another one.

[BV600]

LMAO....I'm not laughing at you but I'm laughing at your last post and the Guinea pig comment definitely fulfilling itself.

It does suck to hear, I was hoping it was good news. So this means no Texas Mile?

[Crimson600+HP]

I don't know if I will be able to make the mile or not. If I okay the work right away, basically have two months to get the car going and ready. Any thoughts of buying a trailer to tow it down there are now out of the question. Look like I will start selling all the stock parts I have for the cars for scrap or something to get money back. Pinching pennies now.

I've put about $11K into the car know and if I build it, that will settle that number closer to the $15K mark. No way I am going to get rid of the car now. I run it and rebuild it. Rip out the interior and put a full cage in it ten years from now and make it a dedicated race/track car if I have too.

[46Tbird]

Bummer man. Unfortunately, I'm about 95% sure you won't be able to just put another piston in it and go. When the ring lands go, they tend to take the cylinder bore with them. You might get lucky. Or, you might be able to get a sleeved block that will allow you to use the stock pistons.

Either way, I feel your pain. These 5.0s are real fun right up til they get punched in the glass jaw.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a274/46Tbird/2012%20GT/IMG141_zps45a14d0a.jpg

[El_Tortuga]

Bummer, but now you know what you are facing.

[ThunderkissGT14]

so this dreaded cylinder 8 thing... 2010 mustang gts and up? or only if you do certain mods to them or?

[Le5oh]

That's extremely scary. Very low mileage on vehicle and how long it was actually supercharged. Scares me to drop the money next month on one. I know the whole gotta pay to play. But eeek.

[Crimson600+HP]

This is not the regular cylinder #8 issue. This is a different problem. The scope revealed a black piston head, which means it was running rich. If it were blued or discolored that would be a sign of running lean, combine with heat would be a tune issue in my experience. It's definitely a head scratcher right now until we dive into the block.

I would say be aware that you are going to lose your warranty, unless you get an FRPP kit and have ford install it. But you will pay a ton of money, probably what I will pay to buy the kit, put it on, then forge the internals. If you want to boost, do it.

Best course of action, trade in and get a 13+ GT500 lol

[Crimson600+HP]

Well, gave a call to ProCharger today and ran the details by them. Based on everything, they think it is a freak anomoly too. And they won't be able to help me until they get more information. So basically tear down the engine and see what fully went wrong. They don't believe the SC is the problem, just like I thought too. To me, all signs point to an error in the casting of the piston, which Ford will probably not own up to. ProCharger just wants more details, so it looks like this is going to be all out of pocket.

[DirtyD]

Well, gave a call to ProCharger today and ran the details by them. Based on everything, they think it is a freak anomoly too. And they won't be able to help me until they get more information. So basically tear down the engine and see what fully went wrong. They don't believe the SC is the problem, just like I thought too. To me, all signs point to an error in the casting of the piston, which Ford will probably not own up to. ProCharger just wants more details, so it looks like this is going to be all out of pocket.
Anychance it may have been blowby afterall coupled with running rich? That would, to me, explain a little more of the black on the piston, burning oil.

I don't want this to come off bad, but if you have those JLT brake ducts removed, I will gladly buy them to help fund the new motor goodies.

I say go ahead and build it as well. Contact JPC Racing or any of the other big time shops and see what rods and pistons they recommend in their builds.

[Crimson600+HP]

Anychance it may have been blowby afterall coupled with running rich? That would, to me, explain a little more of the black on the piston, burning oil.

I don't want this to come off bad, but if you have those JLT brake ducts removed, I will gladly buy them to help fund the new motor goodies.

I say go ahead and build it as well. Contact JPC Racing or any of the other big time shops and see what rods and pistons they recommend in their builds.

Haha, I appreciate the willing to help me fund the rebuild by parting out my current car :ROFLJest: I already started prepping the bank account by scouring my house for spare change and selling off all the stock parts that no one wants to buy for scrap metal. Doesn't seem like much, but stock cats go for $35 a piece (leftovers from my 2013 V6) and change goes along way. 1/5th of the way there buy doing that.

If it were a blowby issue, there would be some oil also on the spark plug right? This is just from my research, but I think some Mustangs in the past that had misfires like this due to blowby would have oil on the spark plug preventing detonation. Pictures will come in time once we tear this puppy down. My only thing is I have to work quickly as I will be heading to NTC in California by the end of this week for a month with no phone. So I basically have to work quickly and hope that ProCharger will work with my shop if they are able to help me.

At this point, it is going to be forged rods and pistons as long as nothing else is damage. Upgrade the oil pump to a billet setup and call it a day. With the power levels I plan on running (no more than really what I have now), this setup with the stock crank will be able to and that safely. Most likely will go with an MMR setup as they have the best prices.

[rlhay2]

Oil blowby, if serious enough, can cause detonation. The presence of oil lowers the octane of the fuel.
In addition, although it is rare, detonation can also be caused by rich conditions in the cylinder. But it is usually more common under lean conditions.

[saunupe1911]

good luck on everything bro

[Crimson600+HP]

Oil blowby, if serious enough, can cause detonation. The presence of oil lowers the octane of the fuel.
In addition, although it is rare, detonation can also be caused by rich conditions in the cylinder. But it is usually more common under lean conditions.

Only way ProCharger is going to warranty anything is if the kit or tune cause the failure. Which I am thinking proving the rich condition caused this is going to be hard. I didn't know that could do so, but I should find out more details by the middle of this week.

good luck on everything bro

Appreciate it. All the other 5.0s in my area that I know I have been keeping in contact with also since I maybe the first to go forged internals. Seems like I am the guinea pig for this experiment.

[DirtyD]

Make sure to get the Triangle Speed Shop billet gears. Best on the market.

[rlhay2]

Does FRPP have a forged shortblock for the Coyote 5.0?

[Crimson600+HP]

Make sure to get the Triangle Speed Shop billet gears. Best on the market.

I will have to look into them. I was planning on going through MMR for everything, but if there is something that much better out there I will check it out.

[garner]

That's not good at all

[Crimson600+HP]

Well, I got the word back today. Turns out my inclinations of a bad casting were substantiated. There were irregular casting marks in the metal of the piston, indicting a weak spot in the piston itself. It was only a matter of time, given the SC & the higher run temps in cylinder #8 accelerated the catastrophic failure. Everything else pertaining to the block were still fine, so right now it's just a replacement piston and rod bearing. That has my wallet feeling much better than having to dish out the dough for a forged setup that is really not needed for the power levels (575 RWHP) that I will be staying at.

For future peace of kind, I will be having the head cooling mod and probably billet oil pump gears while the block is torn apart. After it's all back together we will check the compression to make sure everything is in specs. But it looks like I will be saving about $1500 & will have the car running in about a week after everything comes back in.

Today has been a good day.

[DirtyD]

Sound like a QC issue with the piston.

[Crimson600+HP]

Sound like a QC issue with the piston.

Most likely. Who knows that piston may have held up if it was in a different cylinder besides #8. Things like this can happen in engineering for the masses like Ford. Hard to QC ever single part. Just wished this would have happened before the SC so it would be on Ford's dime instead of mine.

The guys at procharger were interested in then outcome too, they were stumped with what could be the problem. People were quick to blame tuners, but CTP is a great shop and Jeff is an awesome tuner. In my mind, all signs pointed to a metallurgy issue and I am glad that that was the problem and it didn't cause further damage. Now I can get back to building this car to run the Texas Mile :favorites25:

[Crimson600+HP]

Got to see the piston today. There was a chunk about 1.5" long just missing from the piston itself. Looking at the piston, you can see wavy lines (almost like wood grain) in the pattern of the break. The head was sent to a machine shop just for verification, looks like I will need at least one valve which isn't too bad. Once I get back from training in a month, I'll have pictures of everything and hopefully a running car.

Got to look at the block and everything, all the other pistons look great and the engine was running smoothly for the first 13000 miles. All signs definitely point at the failure in casting.

[BV600]

That's awesome glad it was something simple. Now you can get that catch can to get rid of that blow by

[rriddle3]

So no scoring or gouging of the cylinder wall?

[Crimson600+HP]

That's awesome glad it was something simple. Now you can get that catch can to get rid of that blow by

I'll let you be the guinea pig for once on something. Once I get back I'll be sure to check that system out along with how it performs.

So no scoring or gouging of the cylinder wall?

There doesn't appear to be any which is a stroke if luck. Eiter I got lucky and that piston piece went out the valve opening at the right moment or the metal disintegrated and left the engine. Surprising on no damage other than maybe one valve, but the block, cylinder walls, crank, & everything were fine. Even the ring was in perfect shape that normally melts...this is why all signs pointed to a bad part.

Either way, putting an MMR head cooling kit on to help cooling in the future. Now I can get back to looking for a car hauler/trailer and new tires for the upcoming race season/Texas Mile.

[Crimson600+HP]

Well, everything is back to normal now. All that was required was a new piston, new ring, and one valve. Compression is good, car dyno'd with similar results before catastrophic failure, and most importantly back in my garage getting final touches put on before the TX Mile.

I wish that this would have happened before I put the SC on, because it would have been completely under warranty by Ford. But this is the price we pay for modifying our cars. Either way, I am happy again...even though my wallet is a little lighter.

[DirtyD]

At least it was only 1 piston and accessories and not 8...Glad the car is back home though.

[Crimson600+HP]

The exact feeling I had. My power levels were completely fine on stock internals, so I am glad that I didn't have to change all 8 with a forged set up. That money saved allowed me to put the down payment on the car trailer I just purchased.

[El_Tortuga]

Cool beans. Good luck at the TX mile.

You describe wavy lines. Any chance you could post a pic? Sounds like it might be fatigue crack propagation "beach marks" I.e. like waves in the sand, each cycle move the crack a little farther. You can trace back the initiation point where the lines are the closest. Final fracture will be one final progression

[El_Tortuga]

Also, the initiation will typically be darker, and the final fracture the lightest or brightest

[Crimson600+HP]

I don't have a picture of the piston itself right now. It was as you described though, like waves all coming from the base of the piston near one of the rings. Most likely the cylinder was hot enough where the ring closed the gap and there goes the piston. Once I get my hands on the piston, I'll be sure to check it out.

Last thing I have to do actually is a crank position relearn that has to be done at the Ford Dealer. Started throwing random misfires above 3K RPM. Something I didn't know had to happen and my mechanic forgot about. No big deal, appointment scheduled tomorrow morning because a Ford Dealer's IDS tool is the only thing that can do this. Too bad I have to return it to stock tune before they can do this procedure. Looks like my car will run shitty from the parking lot until they do this relearn procedure. Then I can return my custom tunes back on once they are done.

Getting closer every day to having my car fully back.

[Dominic Toretto]

Good luck man, so the Ford dealership will warrant fixing the part even knowing that the tune was altered?

-Alex

[Crimson600+HP]

Oh no, they are doing anything as far as warranty work. This was done all with my rainy day fund and then some. This issue crankshaft position sensor relearn just has to be done with a Ford Dealer. They already told me that their time is worth whatever their hourly rate was. Which I responded with they will only be doing what I tell them to do then, no diagnostics or anything. I have to run the car with the supercharger on it on a completely stock tune for them to do this relearn, so I don't want them driving/running it anymore than they need to.