Supercharged STREET car performance??

[2011gt/cs]

Hey guys, I'm new here and have a 2011 gt/cs. My father wants to buy it so i'll be buying another 2011/12 gt in the very near future. I'll have around 30k to spend and have already found a decent amount of cars to choose from. It will be supercharged and my question is: which one? and yes, i know this has been beaten to death. :beatdeadhorse5:
The car will be my DD and will see a bunch of races on the street and on rare occasions, time permitting, will see the drag strip. It will have around 295 Michelin PSS's as the tire year round. I will mod the car up or down to get around 650rwhp and it will be a M6. Which one would be the quickest on the street. I'm leaning towards a car with a Roush or Whipple. Please tell me your choice and why?
Thanks,
Kyle

[BLK2012GT]

It depends but I've always love the whipple.

[Grandpa]

A Paxton or a VMP TVS kit. A lot of it depends on personal preference of driving style and budget. You can get a Paxton kit from Beefcake pretty cheap, but by the time you add on all the other things you need to make good power and make it reliable you spend about the same as you would for a VMP kit that comes with everything you need.

Both kits also have their individual drawbacks. The VMP kit requires grinding the timing cover but is proven for at least 100k miles and then some. You can run a VMP kit the way it comes and be safe and upgrade as you go with other pullies.

The Paxton kit on the other hand can be a pain the ass if you don't buy everything need up front. The tank that comes with the Paxton leaks so you have to buy one from JPC or Moroso etc. Also, if you run the stock fan it's a really, really tight fit that could cause problems later so a lot of people will run a slim fan. You will also need a BAP with a Paxton to where with the VMP you don't need one.

Some like the Procharger D1, but it has its problems with the MAF placement, but it's moderately easy to install. I'm not a fan of Procharger personally. Their customer service sucks and the P1sc unit is a timebomb.

Of the three, the Paxton has the most power potential with the ability to make over a 1000rw, but of course that would require a full build.

If moderate power is what you are after (600rw-800rw) then I would say the TVS all the way.

Personally, I'd say the TVS is the way to go.

[Dan12GT]

A Paxton or a VMP TVS kit. A lot of it depends on personal preference of driving style and budget. You can get a Paxton kit from Beefcake pretty cheap, but by the time you add on all the other things you need to make good power and make it reliable you spend about the same as you would for a VMP kit that comes with everything you need.

Both kits also have their individual drawbacks. The VMP kit requires grinding the timing cover but is proven for at least 100k miles and then some. You can run a VMP kit the way it comes and be safe and upgrade as you go with other pullies.

The Paxton kit on the other hand can be a pain the ass if you don't buy everything need up front. The tank that comes with the Paxton leaks so you have to buy one from JPC or Moroso etc. Also, if you run the stock fan it's a really, really tight fit that could cause problems later so a lot of people will run a slim fan. You will also need a BAP with a Paxton to where with the VMP you don't need one.

Some like the Procharger D1, but it has its problems with the MAF placement, but it's moderately easy to install. I'm not a fan of Procharger personally. Their customer service sucks and the P1sc unit is a timebomb.

Of the three, the Paxton has the most power potential with the ability to make over a 1000rw, but of course that would require a full build.

If moderate power is what you are after (600rw-800rw) then I would say the TVS all the way.

Personally, I'd say the TVS is the way to go.

Curious why with a TVS do you not need a BAP? Does the TVS kit provide new pumps?


On another note I've heard the TVS kits tend to be a bit more efficient than the Whipple or KBs if that holds any significance for ya. Whipple I think i've heard is the most expensive.

[Hagen3great]

Ive got a vortech v3 with stock pully beefcake special (similar to paxton) and love it. Sometimes I wonder what a tvs would be like having that extra low-mid torque but it never fails to bring a smile. It would help if you could test drive both styles and see which you prefer.

[2011gt/cs]

Thanks. I've been leaning towards the TVS as well. I just think it will be a more all around fun car with the M6. I know an auto and paxton will have the best times at the track but this will mainly be a DD/street car.

[2011gt/cs]

Curious why with a TVS do you not need a BAP? Does the TVS kit provide new pumps?


On another note I've heard the TVS kits tend to be a bit more efficient than the Whipple or KBs if that holds any significance for ya. Whipple I think i've heard is the most expensive.
You know, I've seen that pattern as well. Seems the TVS is a better choice between the three. And with me only having a goal of ~650rwhp I don't need anything like a 2.9 whipple or 2.8kb.
Ive got a vortech v3 with stock pully beefcake special (similar to paxton) and love it. Sometimes I wonder what a tvs would be like having that extra low-mid torque but it never fails to bring a smile. It would help if you could test drive both styles and see which you prefer.

Yeah good point. And I have no doubt that either car will put a huge smile on my face. I'm just curious as to which would be quicker in say a 40-140 race? Traction and gearing being the same I'm thinking the TVS may be a bit quicker?

[PLASMAN]

Thanks. I've been leaning towards the TVS as well. I just think it will be a more all around fun car with the M6. I know an auto and paxton will have the best times at the track but this will mainly be a DD/street car.

Come out to a few meets and you can go for a ride in a few M6 TVS cars within the group.

[2011gt/cs]

Come out to a few meets and you can go for a ride in a few M6 TVS cars within the group.

I'm going to have to do that. Only thing is, are there any meets like on a sunday or monday? I'm usually working Wed-Sat

[Grandpa]

Curious why with a TVS do you not need a BAP? Does the TVS kit provide new pumps?


On another note I've heard the TVS kits tend to be a bit more efficient than the Whipple or KBs if that holds any significance for ya. Whipple I think i've heard is the most expensive.

The TVS just isn't as taxing on the fuel system and a centri unit is.

The Whipple's and KB's are the most expensive kits. They have more growth potential than a TVS down the road if a full build is planned at some point. But on a stock type setup they don't make as much power because they have to be held back.

Honestly, all the kits available are more than enough to destroy the stock motors. You just gotta think ahead of what you want out of your car.

Another thing I like about the VMP kit is that all the wiring is a plug n play style and you don't have to splice up the wiring on your car. That way if you ever want to put it back to stock with won't be such a pain in the ass.

Ive got a vortech v3 with stock pully beefcake special (similar to paxton) and love it. Sometimes I wonder what a tvs would be like having that extra low-mid torque but it never fails to bring a smile. It would help if you could test drive both styles and see which you prefer.

I agree. Both are really fun to drive, it comes down to personal preference and how the car is intended to be driven most often.

I've owned both style of blowers. Both are a lot of fun to drive, but for the way I like to drive, I prefer the roots style blowers for the low-mid range torque around town. It just makes it a blast to drive. I don't usually drive my car at real high RPM's and don't race as much as I used to. I really enjoy the country twisty backroads and the low range torque from the TVS is more suited for that type of driving.

If you are a track rat and want to go fast easy - auto with a Paxton, convertor, exhaust and a good tire = easy 10 second car all day long.


If you want a car that does it all = Hellion Twin Turbo kit.

[Grandpa]

You know, I've seen that pattern as well. Seems the TVS is a better choice between the three. And with me only having a goal of ~650rwhp I don't need anything like a 2.9 whipple or 2.8kb.


Yeah good point. And I have no doubt that either car will put a huge smile on my face. I'm just curious as to which would be quicker in say a 40-140 race? Traction and gearing being the same I'm thinking the TVS may be a bit quicker?

Don't get caught up peak numbers. It's a fools errand. All too often you will see big Paxton cars making 100rw more than a TVS car and it still loses.

It's all about the right set up, getting the power down and the right race for your set up vs the other guy.

[2011gt/cs]

Don't get caught up peak numbers. It's a fools errand. All too often you will see big Paxton cars making 100rw more than a TVS car and it still loses.

It's all about the right set up, getting the power down and the right race for your set up vs the other guy.

Right, I understand that. That's why I've been leaning towards the TVS. Like mentioned earlier, throw on a good tire, converter, and go to the track and the Paxton is a beast. But that's not what I'm going for. Also, to be clear, I'm not buying any of these kits, I'm looking at cars with the supercharger already on them. Not that it makes a difference in this discussion, just pointing it out.

[Dan12GT]

Steve knows his stuff!

[2011gt/cs]

A pic of my current car just for shits and giggles

[JDBishopArts]

I have a TVS and love it. I don't daily it but I could with no issues. Install was easy. We installed it in a day and I drove it back home. I have an 82mm pulley on a very conservative tune and am probably making in the 560 range. The TVS is good for 750-800 but that's about it. Which is more than enough for me. I'd eventually be very happy at around 700-750. After that you can't really put it all down efficiently anyway.

In the 2.3 displacement range the TVS is the way to go. It's been proven to have less heat soak and be more efficient than the Whipple or KB in similar sizes. Of course if you go up to the 2.8 whipple etc those will be better. Like said before the tq in the low to mid range is a lot of fun. Here is a vid of me vs a 700 HP car. It's at the end of the video. He wasn't in full boost at the beginning and was spinning a little and I missed 4th, not that it would have mattered much. I was able to fend him off for a little bit. I also kept a 700hp Camaro at bay for a few seconds. Main race was against a Vortech Foxbody.

Gb1DhLNZolk

[downtime!]

I've got the one no one talks about anymore, Kenne Bell 2.8LC kit. Makes 602/525 on an insanely conservative tune. Idles and drives like a stocker. I've daily driven it like this since for nearly a year now (installed in December of 2012) and have no ill effects at all. And I am not known for being easy on her, LOL! Engine and trans (M6) are all still bone stock.

[GTOphil]

Where would I look for the best TVS kit?

By "best " I mean least headache and money- not the most power.

I only want 500-600, no need to go beyond that. I've been looking at the Paxton kit for about $5k.

I do not race at all- it'll be purely for personal fun and speed. Ideas? Suggestions?

[PLASMAN]

Where would I look for the best TVS kit?

By "best " I mean least headache and money- not the most power.

I only want 500-600, no need to go beyond that. I've been looking at the Paxton kit for about $5k.

I do not race at all- it'll be purely for personal fun and speed. Ideas? Suggestions?

Check out VMPTuning.com for TVS kits, and they ate a forum sponsor also. Send a pm to VNMOUS1 on here and he will take care of you or [email protected]

[GTOphil]

What's the arrival of power difference between a TVS and Paxton?

[2011gt/cs]

I've got the one no one talks about anymore, Kenne Bell 2.8LC kit. Makes 602/525 on an insanely conservative tune. Idles and drives like a stocker. I've daily driven it like this since for nearly a year now (installed in December of 2012) and have no ill effects at all. And I am not known for being easy on her, LOL! Engine and trans (M6) are all still bone stock.

Good to know. I haven't seen any KB cars for sale. Just the centri and TVS/whipple cars

[Grandpa]

What's the arrival of power difference between a TVS and Paxton?

The TVS is nearly an instant hit into boost. As long as you have the basic suspension and a good tire on the car it will hold fairly well once you get the hang of it.

A Paxton will make peak boost at the top of your RPM powerband. It's not as a strong hit as a roots style blower, but rather a more linear pull much like a turbo car does. You won't have the issues of just blowing the tires off as much as a TVS car does. A Paxton would be a more forgiving street car, but you will find yourself playing catch up against roots style cars chasing them down.

The VMP kit is abit of an overkill for a stockblocked car, but it has more room to grow than the standard Roush kit and won't heatsoak nearly as much.

As I said earlier, you can buy a Paxton for $4615 as the base kit with ID1000's. But you will still need a new tank cuz the Paxton one is a POS, spark plugs, BAP and a JLT intake and a slim fan.

$4615
jlt intake is $169
standard bap is $259
programmable or roush plug and play is $409

plugs are either kit, you should do $85.

moroso tanks are around $269 I believe

That there is $5397 not including the slim fan.

The VMP kit is $5500 right now with everything included. So the kits are very close together in price, you just have to figure out what works best for you.

[merlinmol]

I have a Magnuson TVS 2.3 and love it. Mine, like JDBishop's is not a daily.

Steve, why do you say that the VMP has more potential than the Roush and will not heatsoak as much? I like that you answer posts but you have none of these kits on your car and you seem to only talk about the ones you favor at the time. In truth the VMP, Roush and Magnuson TVS kits all use the same Eaton rotors in them. This basically means the casing is the difference. Then from there it goes to installation. I know you said you like VMP because you don't have to splice any wires, but hell you don't have to do that with the Magnuson either. If ease of install is what you want as far as I am aware the Magnuson is the easiest of the TVS' to install. Did mine in about 3.5 hours from start to finish.

[GTOphil]

Thanks Steve. I alresdy have a tuner- the Paxton sounds best when I feel confortable letting $5k go.

I don't race on the street, just want the power for myself and I'm used to turbo feel.

[2011gt/cs]

I have a Magnuson TVS 2.3 and love it. Mine, like JDBishop's is not a daily.

Steve, why do you say that the VMP has more potential than the Roush and will not heatsoak as much? I like that you answer posts but you have none of these kits on your car and you seem to only talk about the ones you favor at the time. In truth the VMP, Roush and Magnuson TVS kits all use the same Eaton rotors in them. This basically means the casing is the difference. Then from there it goes to installation. I know you said you like VMP because you don't have to splice any wires, but hell you don't have to do that with the Magnuson either. If ease of install is what you want as far as I am aware the Magnuson is the easiest of the TVS' to install. Did mine in about 3.5 hours from start to finish.
I obviously can't answer for Steve, but the reason why I would think he said the VMP has more potential is because of the stage three you can buy. The stage 3 is good for 800rwhp out of the box. It's pretty much plug and play. Has ID injectors and the heatsoak thing, VMP has their heat exchanger which works very well. It also has the JLT CAI standard and option for bigger TB as well as comes with the ported inlet and elbow. It's basically everything you need wrapped up into one whole package at a pretty decent price.

[BERT]

I vote procharger but that's just me. Have always loved them. Had one for a bit on my fox coupe. Plus they sound the best lol
Can't stand the root style sound

[Grandpa]

Steve, why do you say that the VMP has more potential than the Roush and will not heatsoak as much? I like that you answer posts but you have none of these kits on your car and you seem to only talk about the ones you favor at the time. In truth the VMP, Roush and Magnuson TVS kits all use the same Eaton rotors in them. This basically means the casing is the difference. Then from there it goes to installation. I know you said you like VMP because you don't have to splice any wires, but hell you don't have to do that with the Magnuson either. If ease of install is what you want as far as I am aware the Magnuson is the easiest of the TVS' to install. Did mine in about 3.5 hours from start to finish.

The VMP kit simply doesn't heatsoak like a regular Roush kit will. With its greater cooling mods, big AFCO fans and more efficient intercooler it's runs quite abit cooler than other kits by design. Starkey purposely designed the kit for high temp road course action to whereas the normal Roush kit doesn't share those same components.

I fully understand why you have the Magnuson unit. Anyone here in your position would have done the same thing buying that kit for what you paid for it! Had you had to pay full price like the rest of us, I seriously doubt you would have bought that kit for one that has more potential. The Magnuson is by far and away the most inferior of all the kits available for the Mustang. The reason the kit so easy to install is because the intercooler is so small there is no modifications needed to slide it in. If Magnuson was serious about performance for that blower they would support it better, hell they would have given it a proper inlet to flow some air, but they didn't.

Any blower is fun for these cars, including yours. It's just not ever going to be the go to choice for Stangers for many reasons.


Thanks Steve. I alresdy have a tuner- the Paxton sounds best when I feel confortable letting $5k go.

I don't race on the street, just want the power for myself and I'm used to turbo feel.
Awesome. I don't think you can go wrong with either blower really. With the large powerband of these cars being able to spin them so high I'm sure that big 2200 head unit will be a blast to drive!

I obviously can't answer for Steve, but the reason why I would think he said the VMP has more potential is because of the stage three you can buy. The stage 3 is good for 800rwhp out of the box. It's pretty much plug and play. Has ID injectors and the heatsoak thing, VMP has their heat exchanger which works very well. It also has the JLT CAI standard and option for bigger TB as well as comes with the ported inlet and elbow. It's basically everything you need wrapped up into one whole package at a pretty decent price.

Precisely.

I vote procharger but that's just me. Have always loved them. Had one for a bit on my fox coupe. Plus they sound the best lol
Can't stand the root style sound

They are certainly very loud. lol.

[J.Shoot]

I think it comes down to driving style. I have a D-1 Procharger on my Boss. It is "not" a daily driver, however it does drive like stock still. The powercurve for the D-1 is higher than the roots style but it makes it very easy to cruise around town and drive "normal" if that's how you choose to drive. Just my .02 cents.

Any of them will make for a lot of fun when you mash the gas pedal.....

J.Shoot

[merlinmol]

The VMP kit simply doesn't heatsoak like a regular Roush kit will. With its greater cooling mods, big AFCO fans and more efficient intercooler it's runs quite abit cooler than other kits by design. Starkey purposely designed the kit for high temp road course action to whereas the normal Roush kit doesn't share those same components.

I fully understand why you have the Magnuson unit. Anyone here in your position would have done the same thing buying that kit for what you paid for it! Had you had to pay full price like the rest of us, I seriously doubt you would have bought that kit for one that has more potential. The Magnuson is by far and away the most inferior of all the kits available for the Mustang. The reason the kit so easy to install is because the intercooler is so small there is no modifications needed to slide it in. If Magnuson was serious about performance for that blower they would support it better, hell they would have given it a proper inlet to flow some air, but they didn't.

Any blower is fun for these cars, including yours. It's just not ever going to be the go to choice for Stangers for many reasons.

In truth any of the kits can be upgraded without a problem to increase power, or address the heatsoaking. However, I do see where you are coming from. I agree that if there is an out of the box solution to address some of these then why not get it without the extra headache involved with ordering other components on the side, but to say that you can't get the same power or cooling out of them isn't necessarily true. It just depends on your plans and what you are trying to do with it. In my case it doesn't matter which kit I have because the car was built for the street/road course, not really much of a need for more power. You are also correct in that anyone who got the deal I did would not have blinked an eye to buy the kit, too good to pass up.

[downtime!]

Same reason I have a KB on mine instead of twins. Deal was too good to pass up.

[2011gt/cs]

I think it comes down to driving style. I have a D-1 Procharger on my Boss. It is "not" a daily driver, however it does drive like stock still. The powercurve for the D-1 is higher than the roots style but it makes it very easy to cruise around town and drive "normal" if that's how you choose to drive. Just my .02 cents.

Any of them will make for a lot of fun when you mash the gas pedal.....

J.Shoot

I do agree that in all honesty, these cars with any type of FI would be a blast to drive! I also agree with everyone about not passing up a great deal on something even if it isn't the kit on the top of your list. I do know, personally, the procharger is towards the bottom of my list and I'm looking for a replacement car that has Nav and heated seats like mine. But lets say I found a car like yours J.Shoot and the deal was just too good to pass up; I would buy it in a heartbeat!

[downtime!]

I do agree that in all honesty, these cars with any type of FI would be a blast to drive! I also agree with everyone about not passing up a great deal on something even if it isn't the kit on the top of your list. I do know, personally, the procharger is towards the bottom of my list and I'm looking for a replacement car that has Nav and heated seats like mine. But lets say I found a car like yours J.Shoot and the deal was just too good to pass up; I would buy it in a heartbeat!You mean something like a 2012 GT in Kona Blue with white stripes, loaded except for Nav and heated seats, with a Kenne Bell on it, that makes 602 at teh wheels, for $26,000? Yeah, that would be hard to pass up.

[BLK2012GT]

You mean something like a 2012 GT in Kona Blue with white stripes, loaded except for Nav and heated seats, with a Kenne Bell on it, that makes 602 at teh wheels, for $26,000? Yeah, that would be hard to pass up.

If it had Nav I would buy it. Too bad.

[Crimson600+HP]

I have a P1SC, mostly because the deal was too good to pass up. It isn't a daily driver, but I usually exercise her once a week to work. Hopefully after a dyno tune session, the car will be a little more driveable (I get surging under light throttle, WOT I have no problem). SC'ing a daily is definately do-able.

[downtime!]

If it had Nav I would buy it. Too bad.LOL! Can't sell it anyway, the blower has been spoken for.

[2011gt/cs]

You mean something like a 2012 GT in Kona Blue with white stripes, loaded except for Nav and heated seats, with a Kenne Bell on it, that makes 602 at teh wheels, for $26,000? Yeah, that would be hard to pass up.

That would be extremely hard to pass up! Lol. Too bad the bower is already spoken for

[2011gt/cs]

Well I found a 2012 with around 22,000 miles with a TVS and FBO's for 30k. Thought that was a pretty good deal until downtime threw out the KB for 26k lol

[pohnjarker]

i have an M6 Paxton GT with 30k miles on it putting down 620+ for sale at 29k

hit me up if interested

[fordplay]

Curious... has anyone tried the edelbrock e-force supercharger kit?? I heard they are low on power but they look really good?

[merlinmol]

As far as I know edelbrock kits don't make the power, I personally think they are ugly as well. If they cost the same as the other S/C's then its definitely not worth it.

[2011gt/cs]

As far as I know edelbrock kits don't make the power, I personally think they are ugly as well. If they cost the same as the other S/C's then its definitely not worth it.
I agree, the edelbrock is last on my list lol
So, I found a 2012 with a 2.9, built motor, and T56 magnum for ~$36,500. What do ya'll think??
I really only wanted to spend around 30k though, but it seems like a pretty good deal.

[PLASMAN]

I would haggle down to $32k maybe its a little high and just because they added $10k of mods the cost doesn't transfer when selling

[Zeek]

If your gonna buy a used car for 30k+ get a 2008+ C6

[03MachMe]

If your gonna buy a used car for 30k+ get a 2008+ C6

Sure if you want to look like an old man with E.D.

[JDBishopArts]

Only vette I'd ever own is a C6Z06. ANDDDdddd maybe a new C7

[5PointSlow]

Can't go wrong with a blown 5.0. My TVS car was one of the ones you were looking at.

[Dan12GT]

As far as I know edelbrock kits don't make the power, I personally think they are ugly as well. If they cost the same as the other S/C's then its definitely not worth it.

I honestly cannot say I have even ever heard of someone buying one. The kits advertise efficiency so I really cannot say how well they actually do. The Eddlebrock SEMA car however did make like 495 to the wheels, on the boxed tune the kit comes with. Which is about the same level of power most all of these kits make. Most people obviously get custom tunes or pulley down for more power.

[2011gt/cs]

If your gonna buy a used car for 30k+ get a 2008+ C6
Honestly, I'd love a C6 Z06, my father had one, but it's honestly not a very practical DD.
I would haggle down to $32k maybe its a little high and just because they added $10k of mods the cost doesn't transfer when selling
I would do 32 or even 33, but yeah, 36.5 just seems like a little much to spend on a used mustang gt, even though he does have a decent amount of money sunk into it.
Can't go wrong with a blown 5.0. My TVS car was one of the ones you were looking at.
Hey man, what's up. Your's is still at the top of my list for sure. It's a beast and very well done.


With all the cars I've looked at recently, I've just been taking my time as to not make a rash decision.

[5PointSlow]

Honestly, I'd love a C6 Z06, my father had one, but it's honestly not a very practical DD.

I would do 32 or even 33, but yeah, 36.5 just seems like a little much to spend on a used mustang gt, even though he does have a decent amount of money sunk into it.

Hey man, what's up. Your's is still at the top of my list for sure. It's a beast and very well done.


With all the cars I've looked at recently, I've just been taking my time as to not make a rash decision.

Things are good, just had a couple days inport. that's why im in and out of the forums lol.

[KungFuHamster]

this thread. wow. :okay2:

[Dominic Toretto]

You guys with blowers, are you building the bottom end or just slapping on a blower, boosting the hell out of it and calling it a day?

-Alex

[BERT]

You guys with blowers, are you building the bottom end or just slapping on a blower, boosting the hell out of it and calling it a day?

-Alex



I don't think anybody on here is building a bottom end until it lets go. At least not that I can tell.

[Dominic Toretto]

I don't think anybody on here is building a bottom end until it lets go. At least not that I can tell.

Hmmmm... wouldn't it be cheaper to build it right the first time?

-Alex

[Crimson600+HP]

I don't plan on upping the boost in my car anytime soon. I am keeping it fairly tame since this car sees more daily driving and road course duty than time at the strip. If I ever get the wild hair to go faster, I will probably build the bottom end/internals.

[BERT]

Hmmmm... wouldn't it be cheaper to build it right the first time?

-Alex




Depends on how long the bottom end lasts lol

[Dominic Toretto]

I don't plan on upping the boost in my car anytime soon. I am keeping it fairly tame since this car sees more daily driving and road course duty than time at the strip. If I ever get the wild hair to go faster, I will probably build the bottom end/internals.

I didn't read the whole thread, how soon does boost come on in the rpm range and how much boost is it tuned for currently?

Depends on how long the bottom end lasts lol

From what I understand the stock crank is already the same forged one in the Boss 302. Not sure about the connecting rods and pistons but I doubt Ford would use Forged pistons and rods on such a highly produced car.

-Alex

[BERT]

I didn't read the whole thread, how soon does boost come on in the rpm range and how much boost is it tuned for currently?



From what I understand the stock crank is already the same forged one in the Boss 302. Not sure about the connecting rods and pistons but I doubt Ford would use Forged pistons and rods on such a highly produced car.

-Alex



Been told the rods are the weak point in the GT's

[Hagen3great]

Ive heard the piston ring landings are weak as well.

[pohnjarker]

I heard the driver is the weak link on the new 5.0s...especially in the group

[JDBishopArts]

With a good tune most people are keeping the stock block together up to the 650HP mark. Past that it seems to be just a matter of time.

[Toby]

It's all a shot in the dark. I just tore apart a 100% bone stock 5.0 engine no intake, exhaust etc and it has broken ring lands on 5 pistons!! Cylinders 2, and 5-8 all are broken.

To answer the question about boss vs gt, the cranks are exactly the same save for the balance job. The pistons are a mahle brand forging and the rods are an, IMO, weaker then stock gt, very thin rod. Also there seems to be assumptions that the boss rods and pistons are lighter, when in fact they are heavier then the gt stuff. I will tank pics and give weights tomorrow when I get back to the shop but IMO I would say the gt stuff may be stronger.

<620 rwhp you should be fine unless the ringlands fail. More then that you are just on borrowed time IMO. Another major weaklink is the block for you crazy hp guys. The sleeves are extremely thin, I would not recommend more then 850 rwhp on a stock block. More then that an you are just on borrowed time.

At this point I have built about 15 of these coyote engines with 4 in the shop now waiting to get done. I have pretty much seen every different failure and each time it's either number 8 failure a ringland fails or just too much damn power for a stock short block at 700+.

Take it for what it's worth, this is just my own hands on experience with these engines.

Now to answer the op, personally I am a little bias to procharger. I have installed every brand except vortech and hands down the procharger is the easiest and simplest kit to install. It requires very little to no modification to the vehicle with everything being reversible and not having to cut every piece of plastic under the good like some of the other brands. The kb kits are also very nice but come at a price.

I personally am considering a procharger for my ls swapped c10. Hehe

[Slow Five-O]

What procharger would you recommend? I like the idea of just o/r exhaust, a circle d convertor and a procharger and that's it. (besides whatever supporting mods needed. Bap, oil pump? etc.)

[Grandpa]

What procharger would you recommend? I like the idea of just o/r exhaust, a circle d convertor and a procharger and that's it. (besides whatever supporting mods needed. Bap, oil pump? etc.)

D-1 at the very least. :favorites13:

[Crimson600+HP]

My P1SC is still running the canned ProCharger tune set for 7 PSI. Right now I am working with getting a dyno session with Maximum Velocity for a Lund Tune. I have some issue with drive ability under light throttle that I am looking to get fixed. As for the RPM range, you can feel the centri really kicking in between 3-4k range.

[Dominic Toretto]

It's all a shot in the dark. I just tore apart a 100% bone stock 5.0 engine no intake, exhaust etc and it has broken ring lands on 5 pistons!! Cylinders 2, and 5-8 all are broken.

To answer the question about boss vs gt, the cranks are exactly the same save for the balance job. The pistons are a mahle brand forging and the rods are an, IMO, weaker then stock gt, very thin rod. Also there seems to be assumptions that the boss rods and pistons are lighter, when in fact they are heavier then the gt stuff. I will tank pics and give weights tomorrow when I get back to the shop but IMO I would say the gt stuff may be stronger.

<620 rwhp you should be fine unless the ringlands fail. More then that you are just on borrowed time IMO. Another major weaklink is the block for you crazy hp guys. The sleeves are extremely thin, I would not recommend more then 850 rwhp on a stock block. More then that an you are just on borrowed time.

At this point I have built about 15 of these coyote engines with 4 in the shop now waiting to get done. I have pretty much seen every different failure and each time it's either number 8 failure a ringland fails or just too much damn power for a stock short block at 700+.

Take it for what it's worth, this is just my own hands on experience with these engines.


Thanks for the quality post. Very interested to see comparison shots between the internals of the GT and Boss. Thanks for again comfirming the GT and Boss have the same crank. You stated that the pistons are a forged Mahle, is that for the Boss, GT or both?

-Alex

[STROKD]

Id like to race one of these sc'd 50s...

[Grandpa]

Id like to race one of these sc'd 50s...

Start with Merlin, then JDBishop.

[JDBishopArts]

Fastest I've been was 11.6 at 124 with 20" 555rs. 1.9 60ft. Just you give you an idea. And I am having to shift into 5th before the trap.

[Toby]

Thanks for the quality post. Very interested to see comparison shots between the internals of the GT and Boss. Thanks for again comfirming the GT and Boss have the same crank. You stated that the pistons are a forged Mahle, is that for the Boss, GT or both?

-Alex

The mahle pistons are in the boss. The gt come with a cast piston. Sorry I won't be able to get the comparison pictures today, my daughter has the flu so I am home with her today. I will get them tomorrow though.

[STROKD]

Fastest I've been was 11.6 at 124 with 20" 555rs. 1.9 60ft. Just you give you an idea. And I am having to shift into 5th before the trap.

To be honest, this car has never been to the track as the current combo is all new. But you run exactly what I feel the car is capable of, so utd be a fun race. Dead stop on the street?

[JDBishopArts]

I'm game. I don't know what I dyno with the new tune but I'd imagine it's in the 560 range.

[Grandpa]

I'd imagine it's in the 560 range.

Ha. ;)

[Dominic Toretto]

The mahle pistons are in the boss. The gt come with a cast piston. Sorry I won't be able to get the comparison pictures today, my daughter has the flu so I am home with her today. I will get them tomorrow though.

I was definitely not trying to rush you on the pics. Hope your daughter feels better soon :).

-Alex

[JDBishopArts]

Ha. ;)

Lol it probably is for now. After E85 it will be a little different.

[Grandpa]

Lol it probably is for now. After E85 it will be a little different.

I love your car. Everytime I see it makes me think twice about no body mods. I'm sure your car will be a good run for Strokd's Vanilla Ice machine.

[JDBishopArts]

Thanks Steve. Trying to keep it subtle. I keep going back and forth on the CF hood vents. Once the lower grille comes in I'll be just about done with exterior mods. Then back to motor.

[Grandpa]

I agree. After a few red cars in a row now, I wanted this one to be understated, clean and subtle as well. I find myself wondering sometimes if it's too understated though and needs some kind of exterior mod. I really do like the throwback look of the 68 Stang it has right now though.


Back to the race topic though - I think JD, Strokd and Merlin should do a three wide race to see how that goes. Would be a fun race to see!

[2011gt/cs]

Well my car is for sale so I can move on to one of these FI 5.0's that I'm seeing for sale!
There are a ton for sale in the 30-35k range with a lot of mods

[Phuck Phace]

Well my car is for sale so I can move on to one of these FI 5.0's that I'm seeing for sale!
There are a ton for sale in the 30-35k range with a lot of mods


Looking to buy a blown 5-0 eh???

[2011gt/cs]

Yep, as soon as mine is gone there are a few I'm going to put in offers on the very same day

[Boss949]

Can't go wrong with a blown 5.0. My TVS car was one of the ones you were looking at.

5PointSlow,

I noticed in your sig, you have Shaun's tunes.

I have his tunes on my N/A now and I'll probably take his advice and get a Roush Phase 2, ID1000's, etc..

Just curious as to how you liked performance, etc. Any heat soak problems in Tx, OK heat?

Thanks

[Phuck Phace]

Buy mine! Has a shit ton of parts.

[2011gt/cs]

5PointSlow,

I noticed in your sig, you have Shaun's tunes.

I have his tunes on my N/A now and I'll probably take his advice and get a Roush Phase 2, ID1000's, etc..

Just curious as to how you liked performance, etc. Any heat soak problems in Tx, OK heat?

Thanks

His car is actually one of the cars I've been considering!

[2011gt/cs]

Buy mine! Has a shit ton of parts.

What all is done to it? How much? I've found proven 10 second cars as well as built motors. Factory options?

[Phuck Phace]

What all is done to it? How much? I've found proven 10 second cars as well as built motors. Factory options?

Everything, 2012 GT/CS, Nav, heated seats, and a shitload of aftermarket parts. Car was going to be ready to sell soon but I've hit a snag at the moment...

[5PointSlow]

5PointSlow,

I noticed in your sig, you have Shaun's tunes.

I have his tunes on my N/A now and I'll probably take his advice and get a Roush Phase 2, ID1000's, etc..

Just curious as to how you liked performance, etc. Any heat soak problems in Tx, OK heat?

Thanks

Sorry it took so long to reply. ive been underway and can only read these sites.

Anyway the car runs hard, 10.88@134 on Shaun's tune and E85. I have done multiple back to back runs at the track and saw no heat soak. the car ran extremely consistent.

ill be home in feb for two weeks so ill be out and about in the car!

[Boss949]

Sorry it took so long to reply. ive been underway and can only read these sites.

Anyway the car runs hard, 10.88@134 on Shaun's tune and E85. I have done multiple back to back runs at the track and saw no heat soak. the car ran extremely consistent.

ill be home in feb for two weeks so ill be out and about in the car!

Thanks for the feedback, very helpful.

You've got a strong GT. Congrats. Stay safe.