SR Lowereing Springs & J&M Panhard Bar for 2011+ GT's

[DarkHorse1350]

Hey guys and gals, I wanted to share my opinion about my recently installed SR lowering springs and J&M PH bar. I won't bore you with the install play by play as there are SEVERAL great "how to" posts with great pics to help you. I want to focus on the quality and my impression of these products since I couldn't find much info using the search feature here specifically for this combo.

The SR Springs (in my opinion) are GREAT option for those folks that are on a budget but still want all the offerings that come from lowering your car. These springs have a progressive rate spring (please someone correct me if I am wrong on this) which means that as they compress they get stiffer, which I can confirm is the case. over all drop is advertised at 1.5 inches, I am not quite there yet but once they settle I expect to be VERY close to that.
These springs may not have the track performance of a set of Eibachs or H&R's but for a 99% street car they will work well and give you that sleek look you are looking for. They come with a blue powder coating so they look just like Ford Racing springs.

I went with the aluminum J&M adjustable bar strictly for the weight savings, the steel bar is the same price so why not save a few pounds right?? Install is pretty much a rip and replace (look up the how to if you are curious on the process). On car adjustment is a little complicated versus say a BMR bar simply because of the location of the jam nuts and the bracket for the bar. J&M uses threaded ends and BMR uses an adjustable section in the middle of the bar. Again for a street car I think this is a great affordable option to get the rear end centered after you lower your Stang. Bar comes coated in a nice silver color with poly bushings and zirks (zyrks?) fittings for future greasing.

Over all I have less than $300 invested in this set up and could not be happier with the results. So if your looking for an affordable lowering set up I recommend these parts and I will probably purchase more SR suspension parts over time based on this experience.

Hope this helps some of you looking to lower your car but don't want to have $500+ wrapped up in the project. If you have any questions please let me know.

Pics...

http://imageshack.us/a/img854/9149/lrra.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/854/lrra.jpg/)

http://imageshack.us/a/img856/4425/v0a7.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/856/v0a7.jpg/)
__________________

[gordelis]

Great review. Do you have bigger pictures by any chance?

[DarkHorse1350]

Any better?

http://imageshack.com/a/img854/9149/lrra.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/nqlrraj/)Uploaded with ImageShack.com (http://imageshack.com)

[gordelis]

Much better. Lol Beautiful ride. Really like the color.

[Oxford14Stang]

Looks great, I was just wondering about the same pan hard bar. Weather to use steel or the aluminum or to even use J&M at all. Still no complaints? How often do you take it to the track? Or put a toll on the suspension?

[DarkHorse1350]

Looks great, I was just wondering about the same pan hard bar. Weather to use steel or the aluminum or to even use J&M at all. Still no complaints? How often do you take it to the track? Or put a toll on the suspension?

Haven't been to the track yet with the new setup, but I plan to soon.

Would I use this bar again? Yes and no, yes because it is a VERY well built piece...once you set it up correctly of course. No, because if you are looking to have easy adjustments I would recommend BMR or Stallion with the mid bar adjusters. I feel that the solid bar is a sturdier piece so I can live with the adjusters on the ends.

I have had to take this bar off 3 different times to readjust but none were the bars fault, just me being a noob when it comes to adjustable suspension parts. I finally decided to use lock-tite on the lock nuts and have not had any rattles since and the body over axle alignment has not moved. I will be adding a 90* zirks fitting to the drivers side bushing housing to make for easier greasing when the time comes but that is no big deal.

Short answer is yes, I am still happy and would do it all over again.

[DirtyD]

Haven't been to the track yet with the new setup, but I plan to soon.

Would I use this bar again? Yes and no, yes because it is a VERY well built piece...once you set it up correctly of course. No, because if you are looking to have easy adjustments I would recommend BMR or Stallion with the mid bar adjusters. I feel that the solid bar is a sturdier piece so I can live with the adjusters on the ends.

I have had to take this bar off 3 different times to readjust but none were the bars fault, just me being a noob when it comes to adjustable suspension parts. I finally decided to use lock-tite on the lock nuts and have not had any rattles since and the body over axle alignment has not moved. I will be adding a 90* zirks fitting to the drivers side bushing housing to make for easier greasing when the time comes but that is no big deal.

Short answer is yes, I am still happy and would do it all over again.
I need to do the locktite on the nuts of my Freedom Racing bar. It's moved on me 3 times now, and I have to adjust it again...PITA....

[DarkHorse1350]

I need to do the locktite on the nuts of my Freedom Racing bar. It's moved on me 3 times now, and I have to adjust it again...PITA....

I used the red "heavy duty" version but I am sure any of them will work.

[maxpayne]

Reviving this thread.

OP - how are the SR Springs holding up?

Does anyone have an opinion on these springs? The drop is 1.5" front and back. They retail for $179.99. Here is the link.http://www.americanmuscle.com/sr-springs-0513gt.html

They seem like a good balance between cost and looks. I know the performance is definitely not the best; but, I have the opportunity to buy a brand new set that has never been used for super, super cheap (like $50). Also, my 5.0 is just a DD, and I don't require extreme performance at this juncture.

Thoughts?

[gordelis]

I have them in my car for about 3000 miles and I'm happy so far.

[maxpayne]

Okay sweet. I just really hope a 1.5 much drop all the way around doesn't make my 18 by 10 wheels and 285 tires rub the fender well as they are already pretty damn close.

[Bacadiesel]

I've had sr springs for also about 4-5000 miles. I think they are good springs. I did notice the ride got harder over bumps but I'm also on stock shocks

[DarkHorse1350]

Reviving this thread.

OP - how are the SR Springs holding up?

Does anyone have an opinion on these springs? The drop is 1.5" front and back. They retail for $179.99. Here is the link.http://www.americanmuscle.com/sr-springs-0513gt.html

They seem like a good balance between cost and looks. I know the performance is definitely not the best; but, I have the opportunity to buy a brand new set that has never been used for super, super cheap (like $50). Also, my 5.0 is just a DD, and I don't require extreme performance at this juncture.

Thoughts?

For a good DD car I don't think it gets much better than these spring. I will say that they will probably benefit greatly from a good set of shocks as the stockers are working harder than they should and will be replaced much sooner than if you were still rolling the factory springs.

[DarkHorse1350]

I've had sr springs for also about 4-5000 miles. I think they are good springs. I did notice the ride got harder over bumps but I'm also on stock shocks

I am having the same issues. I cant wait to update the shocks when the time (I mean money) allows.

[Dominic Toretto]

OP did your J&M panhard bar allow you to perfectly center your axle? I have the same item and my driver side is about 1/2inch out and the passenger side is about 1/2inch in. I plan to swap to a BMR part but for now, no one can tell.

-Alex

[DarkHorse1350]

OP did your J&M panhard bar allow you to perfectly center your axle? I have the same item and my driver side is about 1/2inch out and the passenger side is about 1/2inch in. I plan to swap to a BMR part but for now, no one can tell.

-Alex

Yes, I was able to get it as close to centered as possible. When I installed the bar I fully seated both rod ends (screwed them in all the way, then I adjusted out from there, this will ensure that both ends are adjusted evenly and not one more that the other. Keep in mind that when you first install the bar this way your car will be all kinds of crooked, but as you adjust the bar a little at a time slowly but surely it will center itself.

I had to adjust measure, adjust measure, adjust measure several times until I was happy with the centering. Also use locktite on the jam nuts otherwise they can work themselves loose and you start all over.

[Dominic Toretto]

With the bar I have, it is adjusted fully to the center. No more room for adjustement lol and it is still slightly off. I was considering having an inch sawed off but, not really wanting to hack it up. PHBs are cheap so I'll end up buying a different one in the future. Maybe I got an old unit or something who knows?

-Alex

[DarkHorse1350]

With the bar I have, it is adjusted fully to the center. No more room for adjustement lol and it is still slightly off. I was considering having an inch sawed off but, not really wanting to hack it up. PHBs are cheap so I'll end up buying a different one in the future. Maybe I got an old unit or something who knows?

-Alex

Let me ask you how are you measuring the alignment, fender to wheel center? Fender to wheel/tire (wheel/tire bead) intersection?

I know it sounds weird but when I was using fender to wheel center measurement I would get it lined up perfectly from a measurement standpoint but visually the car was off center to the passenger side. When I used the fender to wheel tire intersection it lined up perfectly both visually and from a measurement standpoint.

[Dominic Toretto]

Let me ask you how are you measuring the alignment, fender to wheel center? Fender to wheel/tire (wheel/tire bead) intersection?

I know it sounds weird but when I was using fender to wheel center measurement I would get it lined up perfectly from a measurement standpoint but visually the car was off center to the passenger side. When I used the fender to wheel tire intersection it lined up perfectly both visually and from a measurement standpoint.

I just went by site lol. Bacadiesel and I could not get it adjusted perfectly and it took some time. I guess the best way to describe it is that once the car was lowered, the "center" shifted to the driver side. So no matter how the PHB was adjusted, the passenger side was always closer in than the driver's side and with the PHB completed screwed together, the driver's side would not go completely in the fender well.

-Alex

[Bacadiesel]

Hey this guy taught me a little trick. Tape a string to your fender and let it hang down, maybe tie a bolt or something heavy at the end of the string to keep it from moving. And measure from string to wheel bead

[Dominic Toretto]

Hey this guy taught me a little trick. Tape a string to your fender and let it hang down, maybe tie a bolt or something heavy at the end of the string to keep it from moving. And measure from string to wheel bead

At this point, I think it would work better by just using a sledgehammer on the driver's side wheel.

-Alex

[DarkHorse1350]

At this point, I think it would work better by just using a sledgehammer on the driver's side wheel.

-Alex

Alex are you close to the Irving area? If so I would be happy to help adjust as needed.

If your bar in completely compressed you are seeing the correct results, you need to "unscrew the bar to push the passenger side away from the axle center. By "screwing" the bar tighter you are actually pulling the passenger fender closer to axle center.

[Dominic Toretto]

Alex are you close to the Irving area? If so I would be happy to help adjust as needed.

If your bar in completely compressed you are seeing the correct results, you need to "unscrew the bar to push the passenger side away from the axle center. By "screwing" the bar tighter you are actually pulling the passenger fender closer to axle center.

I'm in Irving but, I do not have access to a lift or jack stands. It's not a big deal but, I don't mind showing you the car.

-Alex

[DarkHorse1350]

I'm in Irving but, I do not have access to a lift or jack stands. It's not a big deal but, I don't mind showing you the car.

-Alex

I have all the needed tools. If you want to try to get it lined up let me know Ill have some free time on Sunday.

[Dominic Toretto]

I have all the needed tools. If you want to try to get it lined up let me know Ill have some free time on Sunday.

Thanks man, appreciate it. PM will be sent.

-Alex

[NAVAG]

Reviving this thread.

OP - how are the SR Springs holding up?

Does anyone have an opinion on these springs? The drop is 1.5" front and back. They retail for $179.99. Here is the link.http://www.americanmuscle.com/sr-springs-0513gt.html

They seem like a good balance between cost and looks. I know the performance is definitely not the best; but, I have the opportunity to buy a brand new set that has never been used for super, super cheap (like $50). Also, my 5.0 is just a DD, and I don't require extreme performance at this juncture.

Thoughts?

I saw them on American Muscle a couple of months ago for $79 and couldn't pass them up. Ride quality is much improved. No roll. No squat. Makes the car look like is should instead of a 4X4 truck. Installed new Continental Extreme DW's and the car looks and feels 100% better.

My advice is to go ahead and use the money saved on this set and get a good panhard bar that has only one adjustment point. The cheap ones are a pain to adjust on the passenger side.

[DarkHorse1350]

I saw them on American Muscle a couple of months ago for $79 and couldn't pass them up. Ride quality is much improved. No roll. No squat. Makes the car look like is should instead of a 4X4 truck. Installed new Continental Extreme DW's and the car looks and feels 100% better.

My advice is to go ahead and use the money saved on this set and get a good panhard bar that has only one adjustment point. The cheap ones are a pain to adjust on the passenger side.

Agreed, the BMR bar is one that is super easy to dial in and adjust if needed. I have not heard anything bad about this bar either and I would go that route if I had to do it again.