clutch issues also

[thehead]

I have been noticing some clutch issues if I am dragging out the rpm over 6500ish. It is not necessarily a getting it into gear issue but I lose clutch pedal. It acts like the fluid is getting too hot and the pedal gets mushy and doesn't want to come off the floor. I have to pump it a couple times and then it is fine. If I'm just driving it normal it is fine. Also notice that it is worse when I push the pedal down while slowing down snd then release it back into a gear. I have virtually zero pedal. It reminds me a lot of how the vettes do with a stock clutch and some power but they will tend to slip. This one isn't slipping. Anyone else having or heard of this issue.

[TrueStreetMotorSports.com]

I have been noticing some clutch issues if I am dragging out the rpm over 6500ish. It is not necessarily a getting it into gear issue but I lose clutch pedal. It acts like the fluid is getting too hot and the pedal gets mushy and doesn't want to come off the floor. I have to pump it a couple times and then it is fine. If I'm just driving it normal it is fine. Also notice that it is worse when I push the pedal down while slowing down snd then release it back into a gear. I have virtually zero pedal. It reminds me a lot of how the vettes do with a stock clutch and some power but they will tend to slip. This one isn't slipping. Anyone else having or heard of this issue.

Sounds like you are having a hydraulic issue. This would not be a direct effect from a tune so they even if it is tuned they "should" be able to cover this under warranty.

Good luck and let me know if we can help

[46Tbird]

I don't have this issue, but it seems to be common. My uncle had/has this issue with both his 2011 GT and 2012 Boss 302.

There are a couple of methods for dealing with it. I think the most popular and effective mod is to replace the plastic/rubber clutch line with a stainless/teflon version from McLeod, JHR, or Ford Racing. Some folks are removing the clutch 'helper spring' from the pedal assembly to give a stiffer pedal, but that doesn't really address the hydraulic issue. And some are replacing the entire pedal box with the GT500 part since it's much more substantial, but again it doesn't address the hydraulic issue.

My uncle replaced both the clutch line and pressure plate when his GT grenaded the clutch and he said he never had a problem with it again. Just as an aside, the clutch and brakes use the same fluid reservoir, so there may be some strange pedal feel when using both systems a lot - like on a road course.

[thehead]

I agree it is hydraulic issues. I think the rpm difference is boiling the fluid via the throw out bearing. Car is bone stock. I'm just trying to find out if this is common or not. I'm not going to worry about it until after I get back from Florida mid June.

Also thanks for offering to help out but I'll just take it to the dealer or fix it myself. I have never paid for a shop to work on my cars since I'm a fully certified tech. I have also had my hands on some pretty advanced and fast vehicles.

[downtime!]

Had the same issue on my '12, had HPP install a JPC Racing steel braid clutch line and a new factory slave cylinder, and remove the helper spring. The first two would have likely cured the issue, but wanted to be safe and do it all. After driving the car on the 3000 mile road trip, in all types of traffic (including getting stuck on I-35 in Moore, right after the storms hit - 2 hours to go 3 miles) I do NOT recommend removing the helper spring. It really gives the car a "cable clutch" feel and with just a stage 2 clutch, a very heavy pedal effort. The line kit will generally fix the issue, and it's not a bad idea to replace the slave cylinder, but that helper spring needs to be left alone! LOL!

[rriddle3]

... but that helper spring needs to be left alone! LOL!
Funny how we were discussing this very issue last week at the FW GTG.