My future build plans, please post thoughts and ideas about it

[KnightRider5.0]

If you can't see the pic
It's
DSS aluminum drive shaft
Ford P series lowering springs my sport lines are getting rough.
AMR Staggered Black 20X9 and 20X10 with nitto invos
Ford Racing Panhard
Ford Racing Short Throw Shifter
Throttle body spacer
Blacked out Side-markershttp://http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/ryanscott_2008/F6A32917-D690-41AB-92D5-096963E78ED7-131-00000008EAC8E4FC_zpsa5ec0d6a.jpghttp://http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/ryanscott_2008/DE2A9693-1CD6-4162-AC0A-5B86EFB377D1-131-00000008E9C67112_zpsde17be34.jpg

[Phuck Phace]

Wharz boost?

[KnightRider5.0]

Never mind

[Midnight11]

use photobucket

[BLK2012GT]

Wharz da naws?:ryu-cvs-hadoken-a:

[KnightRider5.0]

Ah Soab sorry guys I tried and photobucket didn't make it much better. My future build plans are these parts

[BLK2012GT]

Well, looks like a great list to start from.

[jng2985]

ford k springs

and theres cheaper adj. pan bars out there.

followed by bank account vs boost..

[KnightRider5.0]

I'm not going to do boost my car is my DD plus I feel like its ridiculous to spend that kind of money. Why do you say K over P series. I want the softer ride plus room to clear the 20s. I travel to San Antonio and the roads there suck my sport lines beat the crap out of me this weekend.

[OG Fox]

If you can't see the pic
It's
DSS aluminum drive shaft
Ford P series lowering springs my sport lines are getting rough.
AMR Staggered Black 20X9 and 20X10 with nitto invos
Ford Racing Panhard
Ford Racing Short Throw Shifter
Throttle body spacer
Blacked out Side-markershttp://http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/ryanscott_2008/F6A32917-D690-41AB-92D5-096963E78ED7-131-00000008EAC8E4FC_zpsa5ec0d6a.jpghttp://http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/ryanscott_2008/DE2A9693-1CD6-4162-AC0A-5B86EFB377D1-131-00000008E9C67112_zpsde17be34.jpg

-driveshaft is a yes.
-springs? i dont think its your springs, rather than your shocks and struts which have improperly worn now that you lowered the car. think about replacing those instead.
-not a fan of the amr's they look an inch smaller than they actually are.
-go with a bmr adj. panhard, better quality, prolly cheaper
-why ford racing? you like over paying? mgw, also, the ford racing is basically the barton.
-throttle body spacer? don't waste your money.
-blacked out side markers! hell yeah, big worm charges 25 for tint and install. can't beat that deal.

[KnightRider5.0]

Na my car has the full eibach sport line package to include struts and springs it's like a $1,300 kit and I have had the suspension checked out the shocks and struts are fine. They guy who owned the car before me had the dealership I bought the car from install the eibach package. And ford for undisclosed reasons ;)

[46Tbird]

I guess it's a good list, but since we have no real idea what you intend to do with the car, it's kinda tough to say if the list is appropriate or not.

If you're wanting .02 worth of opinion, here ya go.

I don't understand the point of a "throttle body spacer." Sounds like something that will cause intake tube fitment issues and possible leaks for little or zero gain.

The Invos suck. They have an interesting tread pattern but they're hard as a rock and have terrible traction in any/all conditions. They are cheap and that might be the reason you've chosen them, but there are a lot better tires out there, even for the same money (Nitto NT555 and Continental Extreme) or more expensive (Toyo Proxes and Michelin Super Sport).

The reason your Sportlines are 'rough' is because of the matched shocks and struts from Eibach. I suggest an adjustable set of shocks/struts so you can make the car as stiff as appropriate. I have Sportlines with Tokico D-specs, and right now I have them set at 1 turn in the front and 3 in the rear (adjustable from 0 turns soft to 7 turns firm) and it rides like a Cadillac. I can crank them down to teeth-rattle in about two minutes total.

All the Ford parts are okay. All of them you listed are repackaged versions of other aftermarket parts, so it's hard to go wrong there.

You did ask...

[KnightRider5.0]

Thanks man that's really good information I appreciate it. If I change the springs will my ride be better? Or better off just doing struts and shocks? I'm trying to get clearance for the 20s and have a smoother ride. Guess which is cheaper?

[03MachMe]

Thanks man that's really good information I appreciate it. If I change the springs will my ride be better? Or better off just doing struts and shocks? I'm trying to get clearance for the 20s and have a smoother ride. Guess which is cheaper?

Just changing springs MAY give you a softer ride but you will get a more noticeable difference with the shocks and struts, and there are plenty of people with sportlines running 20s, phuck Phace being one of them. I will be as soon as I can get some 20s lol

[46Tbird]

You can run 20s and Sportlines. See pic. :)

If you're wanting to make more room and get a softer ride, I'm intrigued by the BMR lowering drag springs. They have a soft rate for drag racing and they bring the car down for good looks, but they're not the normal stiff/short 'road racing' spring a lot of people seem to favor. Also, there was recently a sale on Vogtland springs where you could get the whole set, brand new for $70. But yes, the Ford P springs (same spring as the Eibach Pro Kit and the DUB edition) will raise your car back up some and have a softer spring rate. But the firm ride is still dictated by those Eibach shocks/struts. Every impact is going to be harsh with those no matter what springs you have.

[KnightRider5.0]

Well sounds like shocks and struts are in order to be changed then. Am I going to need a new alignment after swapping and adjusting those with the new larger tires and wheels? All your advice has been greatly appreciated.

[CMORENO302]

I guess it's a good list, but since we have no real idea what you intend to do with the car, it's kinda tough to say if the list is appropriate or not.

If you're wanting .02 worth of opinion, here ya go.

I don't understand the point of a "throttle body spacer." Sounds like something that will cause intake tube fitment issues and possible leaks for little or zero gain.

The Invos suck. They have an interesting tread pattern but they're hard as a rock and have terrible traction in any/all conditions. They are cheap and that might be the reason you've chosen them, but there are a lot better tires out there, even for the same money (Nitto NT555 and Continental Extreme) or more expensive (Toyo Proxes and Michelin Super Sport).

The reason your Sportlines are 'rough' is because of the matched shocks and struts from Eibach. I suggest an adjustable set of shocks/struts so you can make the car as stiff as appropriate. I have Sportlines with Tokico D-specs, and right now I have them set at 1 turn in the front and 3 in the rear (adjustable from 0 turns soft to 7 turns firm) and it rides like a Cadillac. I can crank them down to teeth-rattle in about two minutes total.

All the Ford parts are okay. All of them you listed are repackaged versions of other aftermarket parts, so it's hard to go wrong there.

You did ask...

Tokico D-specs are good to go? I was planning in buying the eibach kit. Just want a smoother ride and tighter suspension.

[DirtyD]

Tokico D-specs are good to go? I was planning in buying the eibach kit. Just want a smoother ride and tighter suspension.

Get the Tokicos, or any adjustable strut/shock combo. You will thank yourself later

[46Tbird]

Well sounds like shocks and struts are in order to be changed then. Am I going to need a new alignment after swapping and adjusting those with the new larger tires and wheels? All your advice has been greatly appreciated.
Yes, you really need to align your car after replacing any front end parts.
Tokico D-specs are good to go? I was planning in buying the eibach kit. Just want a smoother ride and tighter suspension.
I like mine, but they're just what I was able to find Used for a good price. The Koni Yellows are just as good. There are also some nice options in coilovers.

[Toby]

If you can't see the pic
It's
DSS aluminum drive shaft Go with a dynotech
Ford P series lowering springs my sport lines are getting rough. H&R race springs
AMR Staggered Black 20X9 and 20X10 with nitto invos
Ford Racing Panhard BMR is the only brand I will recommend. I have installed dozens of both and the ford racing i dislike as I do the steeda.
Ford Racing Short Throw Shifter MGW FTMFW!
Throttle body spacer Dont waste your money those are a joke
Blacked out Side-markershttp://http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/ryanscott_2008/F6A32917-D690-41AB-92D5-096963E78ED7-131-00000008EAC8E4FC_zpsa5ec0d6a.jpghttp://http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/ryanscott_2008/DE2A9693-1CD6-4162-AC0A-5B86EFB377D1-131-00000008E9C67112_zpsde17be34.jpg

See the red^^^


Also as mentioned invest in a set of koni yellow's. With that you can adjust the soft and firm settings to your liking. Not to mention the rebound valving is far superior to the eibach junk that is on there.

[pohnjarker]

just my opinion...

honestly, unless you're going FI, you dont really need a aluminum drive shaft, but if you want one, id go with the dynotech drive shaft
Ultralite Springs on some Tokicos or Koni Yellows....i went with the 10 way adjustable Strange shocks/struts.
BMR or Whiteline adjustable panhard
Barton will save you a couple hundred and is said to be a step below the MGW. Barton makes the Ford shifter and charges less. i got mine for 250 used, looking forward to putting it on.
Throttle body spacer is a waste of time.
I also agree the Invos suck, you can do much better like 46Tbird said.

what other mods do you have?

[KnightRider5.0]

Right now full eibach sport package front sway, rear sway, tower strut brace are all eibach, Roush cold air intake, roush axle back, The brembo brake package, A ford performance tune. halo center fogs but its hard to get a good picture of them. I've got a bmr driveshaft loop I got from a part out, yet to be installed.

[merlinmol]

Na my car has the full eibach sport line package to include struts and springs it's like a $1,300 kit and I have had the suspension checked out the shocks and struts are fine. They guy who owned the car before me had the dealership I bought the car from install the eibach package. And ford for undisclosed reasons ;)

I feel bad that they charge $1300 for this, you can get a couple different coil over sets for around $1000.

[KnightRider5.0]

Didn't buy it previous owner

[pohnjarker]

thats what i like about forums, you get to talk to more people than just a salesman trying to sell you something.

[KnightRider5.0]

I know it's a debate but driveshafts DSS? Or Dynotech?

[zemog255]

Why do you want a different drive shaft? They aren't cheap and the gains are minimal. All it is stronger and you don't seem to have any straight line performance mods.

[KnightRider5.0]

I guess it's a good list, but since we have no real idea what you intend to do with the car, it's kinda tough to say if the list is appropriate or not.

If you're wanting .02 worth of opinion, here ya go.

I don't understand the point of a "throttle body spacer." Sounds like something that will cause intake tube fitment issues and possible leaks for little or zero gain.

The Invos suck. They have an interesting tread pattern but they're hard as a rock and have terrible traction in any/all conditions. They are cheap and that might be the reason you've chosen them, but there are a lot better tires out there, even for the same money (Nitto NT555 and Continental Extreme) or more expensive (Toyo Proxes and Michelin Super Sport).

The reason your Sportlines are 'rough' is because of the matched shocks and struts from Eibach. I suggest an adjustable set of shocks/struts so you can make the car as stiff as appropriate. I have Sportlines with Tokico D-specs, and right now I have them set at 1 turn in the front and 3 in the rear (adjustable from 0 turns soft to 7 turns firm) and it rides like a Cadillac. I can crank them down to teeth-rattle in about two minutes total.

All the Ford parts are okay. All of them you listed are repackaged versions of other aftermarket parts, so it's hard to go wrong there.

You did ask...

I looked up both the Koni yellows an Tokico D specs and both say don't fit 2011+ mustangs only for 05-10 GTs. So is the fitment wrong on American muscle?

[pohnjarker]

you can run the 05-10 with the GT500 strut mount or other like the steeda heavy duty strut mount or caster camber plates

[46Tbird]

I looked up both the Koni yellows an Tokico D specs and both say don't fit 2011+ mustangs only for 05-10 GTs. So is the fitment wrong on American muscle?

Just as ^^ he said, all you need is a pair of GT500 strut mounts and you can install them on your car. You really want to have that better strut mount anyway, the '11+ design is absolute TRASH and they normally fall completely apart when you disassemble the front end.

http://jharbour.com/mustang/Photo0818.jpg